Bilge Pump Switch?

Feb 2, 2008
14
Hunter 380 Santa Barbara
Just had our second bilge pump switch failure in 17 years. Not to bad considering the environment its kept in. I found a new Ultra Bilge Pump switch on EBay for about half regular price and installed it today along with a good bilge scrubbing . I have heard good reviews on these for a long time except the high cost. Anyone here have some real life experience with one of these switches?
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Ted

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Jan 26, 2005
1,261
C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY
I have the Ultra Safety Systems Senior bilge pump switch. The Junior and Senior models are similar designs except the Senior model has the ability to be used with the optional self powered high water alarm. Nearly all of the reviews on these units are very favorable. The most noted negative was the cost. I think that considering how important a role that this part plays in protecting your boat, it's cheap insurance especially when you consider that you may never have to buy another bilge pump switch again. They seem to be a very high quality switch made here in the USA. There is a 5 year warranty but make sure that you don't cut off the heat shrink connectors that come attached to the wire leads as that will void it.
 
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Feb 2, 2008
14
Hunter 380 Santa Barbara
100% agree this is not one of the places to skimp on quality and reliability. One thing I did notice is with the new switch mounted as low as possible it leaves about 1" more water in the bilge.
 
May 24, 2004
7,141
CC 30 South Florida
I cannot fail hearing in any discussion concerning bilge pumps how important they are to boat safety. The facts are that bilge pump failures are quite common but boat's sinking directly attributable to such failures are nil. The small electrical bilge pumps used in today's boats are convenience items which were designed to automatically expel incidental water collected in the bilge so the owner does not have to manually scoop it up. They are easily overwhelmed and incapable of contending with any significant influx of water. Pumps are bench rated (new pumps with no hoses in ideal conditions) in gallons per hour (GPH) but their performance in a real world installation drops the capacity considerably. It is not unusual for a pump rated at 500 GPH to actually deliver closer to 100 GPH. The length and shape of the hoses, the heads of lift, motor heat losses, voltage drop and other factors contribute to the difference in rated and actual capacity. The professed importance of the small electric bilge pump in the safety of a boat is a myth. At best they could be relied on to buy some time in minor water intrusions. As logic would have it, it would be the smaller boats that would need the larger pumps as they would fill faster and sink quicker. Once we understand that the small electric bilge pump is not really that important then we can perhaps assign a more realistic value to the switch that operates it. I do not mind replacing the switches every 3-4 years so for me a $20 switch is quite adequate. I do not trust my batteries to it, so I run power to the bilge pump through a breaker switch at the panel which remains off when the boat is unattended. I know all about the recommendation of hardwiring the bilge pump directly to the batteries but that has resulted in more dead batteries than any saved boats. You want a more effective bilge pump for use at the dock get a 120V sump pump. The USS pump looks sturdy and well designed and I have heard they are reliable. Whether they are worth the cost is a matter for each to weigh.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,002
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Whether they are worth the cost is a matter for each to weigh.
How true, how true ................ I prefer to make sure all hoses are double clamped with 100% SS clamps, all hoses are in good condition, and just because I still don't think that's enough, all thru hulls are closed when I leave the boat.