Bilge pump & sump questions

[irwin38aft]

Getting an old boat back in shape and want some advice. I assume the parts shown below are a strainer (needs a screen), a check valve (I think) and a float switch. I also assume the check valve and the strainer should be reconnected to the hose. The hose leads to an electric pump that is plumbed to a small thru hull well above the water line. The pump looks just like you would use for freshwater (sorry didn't get a pic or info).

Here are my questions...
1) is this a good setup?
2) should I add a submersible sump as a backup?
3) the switch has an oval base with two screws... I assume it should be mounted on a piece of wood or plastic that is secured to the lowest part of the bilge?
4) What's the best way to insure the 12v bilge pump(s) always have power? Wired direct to house battery w/solar charger?
5) Finally, what about a 110v sump pump to use at the dock just in case of battery failure?
Thanks folks!

 

[MattObjects]

I have two electric bilge pumps. My primary pump sits at the bottom of the bilge, does not have a float switch, and can only be turned on manually at my electrical panel. My secondary bilge pump is several inches above the bottom of the bilge, has a float switch mounted next to it on a flat fiberglass surface, and the float switch for this pump is wired directly to the batteries with an in-line fuse rather than being run through the electrical panel. I set it up this way so that a small amount of water in the bilge won't drain the battery bank when I'm away from the boat, but if there is a larger amount of water in the bilge, the float switch will trigger the secondary bilge pump even if I am not there to turn on the primary pump.

Opinions differ as to the value of check valves. Without a check valve, once the pump is turned off, all of the water still in the hose that had not yet been pumped all the way out will flow back into the bilge, making it nearly impossible to have a completely dry bilge once any water gets in there. On the other hand, check valves are prone to clogging and a clogged bilge pump hose can be disastrous for your boat. In the end, I omitted check valves from my electric bilge pump setup but I know many sailors that have them.

I have never heard of anyone having a 110v pump as backup. If my boat were taking on water to the point that such a thing would be necessary while I was at the dock, I would immediately have the boat hauled out to address the issue. If my boat were taking on that kind of water while away from a dock, a 110v pump wouldn't do me any good.

 

[Benny17441]

Many folks use a 120V sump pump to back up their bilge pump when at the dock. Understand that a bilge pump is not a safety but a convenience item. It is designed to expel incidental water that collects in the bilge so you do not have to get on your hands and knees to soak it up. As general information a bilge pump that in actuality attains half of its rated capacity is an excellent one. Not uncommon for a 500GPH pump to barely push 100GPH. It is also a fact that it is the smaller boats that need the larger pumps as they will fill up faster. Having said this, concentrate on fixing all leaks and periodically check all hoses and clamps as they will be your line of defense.

 

[MitchM]

Red Lion makes a nice 120 v non - automatic sump pump that claims to pump 2000 g p h into a 5/8 " standard garden hose which you can just run to drain overboard . (NB : the big Rule 2000 12 v claims the same g p h with a 3/4" hose outlet.) you can get the RL on amazon for $75 (or at a Grainger for $155.) it's a good accessory to keep on the boat . (or my neighbor with a 'catalina smile' keel separation, which was ignored for many years, then turned into a big leak into her bilge...) Red Lion also makes an automatic version that's a lot more money. but if you were going to leave your boat for a while and worried about your battery running down maybe it would be worth it to you ...