Our 1984 Starwind is new for us so we are just getting to know her ... last weekend I got to the boat and first thing checked the bilge, about half full so I switched on the pump. I noticed that it ran more raggedy than normal and then it shut off - the 10 amp fuse blew. I notice that the pump has a separate float switch (this is different than my ski boat which has the float switch built inside the bilge pump housing) and I don't think it works or ever worked even before I had a problem blowing fuses. I also notice that the wiring has splice connections with the twist type connectors and the splices sometimes can sit right in the water if the bilge fills up almost to the sole, which it has done a time or two since we've had the boat. So I suspect that dampness in the splice could be causing a short. I dried out the wiring to some extent and tried replacing fuses, but they keep blowing. So far, no emergency but I want to get the thing working properly. I have limited practical knowledge of electrical components, but the splices bother me and seem to point to the problem. My next step was to clip the wires and make a new splice and try to seal it from water. I would think that if the float is fully submerged and the pump hasn't gone on, it isn't working (duh). Any test for what the problem would be?
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Pump
Since you said "the pump ran more raggety than normal", my first guess would be a burned-up pump. Also sounds like a bad float switch.
Since you said "the pump ran more raggety than normal", my first guess would be a burned-up pump. Also sounds like a bad float switch.
Bilge pump short
I would start with the wet wiring. Dry it out and test the pump alone to make sure your pump is not shorted. If it works, check your float switch to make sure the float moves freely. If so, test the float switch while connected to the pump by manually moving the float up. If the pump doesn't work through the switch, it is most likely your float switch. Also check your wiring between the float switch and the pump. Those could be wet as well. Good luck.
I would start with the wet wiring. Dry it out and test the pump alone to make sure your pump is not shorted. If it works, check your float switch to make sure the float moves freely. If so, test the float switch while connected to the pump by manually moving the float up. If the pump doesn't work through the switch, it is most likely your float switch. Also check your wiring between the float switch and the pump. Those could be wet as well. Good luck.
Hey Scott,
Are you new here? You write gooder than most of us.
Your post is clear and to the point. I suggest you take Bryon's suggestion to heart and carry it all the way. Replace everything in the pump system. You can use the old wire to snake the new stuff. If you are blowing a fuse in something as critical as the bilge pump, well, 'nuff said.
Are you new here? You write gooder than most of us.
Your post is clear and to the point. I suggest you take Bryon's suggestion to heart and carry it all the way. Replace everything in the pump system. You can use the old wire to snake the new stuff. If you are blowing a fuse in something as critical as the bilge pump, well, 'nuff said.Thanks Fred!
I've been hooked on this forum since just before buying our sweatheart late this past summer! She is helping us to learn how to sail gooder than before and I am getting some valuable lessons on upgrades and upkeep to boot! I've had some good advise on numerous topics. For instance, I've never owned a diesel engine before now so I read as many postings as there are regarding these mysterious beasts. Thanks for your interest!
I've been hooked on this forum since just before buying our sweatheart late this past summer! She is helping us to learn how to sail gooder than before and I am getting some valuable lessons on upgrades and upkeep to boot! I've had some good advise on numerous topics. For instance, I've never owned a diesel engine before now so I read as many postings as there are regarding these mysterious beasts. Thanks for your interest!
In The Water
I agree...replace all that stuff. Also, get some liquid tape, the black tape replacement, that is painted on by a brush attached to the lid of the can. Be sure all the fittings are thoroughly soaked with the liquid tape. Having said that, wires simply screwed together should still work, even if laying in a bilge full of water.
I agree...replace all that stuff. Also, get some liquid tape, the black tape replacement, that is painted on by a brush attached to the lid of the can. Be sure all the fittings are thoroughly soaked with the liquid tape. Having said that, wires simply screwed together should still work, even if laying in a bilge full of water.
Time for a new pump
I had the exact same problem. I was going through fuses like crazy. I tried all of the above, however the only thing that solved the problem was replacing the pump. I also replaced the float switch. Phil
I had the exact same problem. I was going through fuses like crazy. I tried all of the above, however the only thing that solved the problem was replacing the pump. I also replaced the float switch. Phil
Bilge Pump Fuses
Scott: The earlier posters offer good advice, to which I’d add: 1. Your Automatic Bilge Pump should always be left “on” when the boat is untended. 2. Submersible Bilge Pumps (Centrifugal Impeller) are water cooled, so the bearings tend to burn out (ragged or noisy operation) when run dry. 3. Some common causes of “blown fuses” on Bilge Pumps are: ~ undersized fuse (compare to amperage spec’ on label) ~ clogged intake or jammed impeller (check for debris) ~ worn/burnt/seized motor bearings (replace pump) ~ high resistance wiring or short circuit 4. You’ve already replaced the twist type connectors, which are NEVER permitted anywhere on a boat, and (hopefully) relocated the wiring to a high9er) and dry routing. 5. If you’re still uncertain about the quality of your Bilge Pump installation, you might consider a complete replacement (as previously recommended) of all wiring, pump, level & control switches. 6. I wrote an article on voltage drop & wire sizing, utilizing a Bilge Pump installation as example. A draft version of “Ohm’s Law & You” (published as “Ohm’s Law & Boats” - March/April 2003 Issue 29 of “Good Old Boat Magazine”) can be found on-line @ The Cruisers Forum: http://cruisersforum.com/index.php?referredid=79 under the heading “Yacht Maintenance, Boat Building Tips & Tricks @: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 HTH Gord
Scott: The earlier posters offer good advice, to which I’d add: 1. Your Automatic Bilge Pump should always be left “on” when the boat is untended. 2. Submersible Bilge Pumps (Centrifugal Impeller) are water cooled, so the bearings tend to burn out (ragged or noisy operation) when run dry. 3. Some common causes of “blown fuses” on Bilge Pumps are: ~ undersized fuse (compare to amperage spec’ on label) ~ clogged intake or jammed impeller (check for debris) ~ worn/burnt/seized motor bearings (replace pump) ~ high resistance wiring or short circuit 4. You’ve already replaced the twist type connectors, which are NEVER permitted anywhere on a boat, and (hopefully) relocated the wiring to a high9er) and dry routing. 5. If you’re still uncertain about the quality of your Bilge Pump installation, you might consider a complete replacement (as previously recommended) of all wiring, pump, level & control switches. 6. I wrote an article on voltage drop & wire sizing, utilizing a Bilge Pump installation as example. A draft version of “Ohm’s Law & You” (published as “Ohm’s Law & Boats” - March/April 2003 Issue 29 of “Good Old Boat Magazine”) can be found on-line @ The Cruisers Forum: http://cruisersforum.com/index.php?referredid=79 under the heading “Yacht Maintenance, Boat Building Tips & Tricks @: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=372 HTH Gord
bad float switch
These types of float switches, which use a drop of mercury to complete the circuit, are notoriously undependable. I've replaced 2 or 3 in the last 10 years. That may not be the problem, but keep an eye on it.
These types of float switches, which use a drop of mercury to complete the circuit, are notoriously undependable. I've replaced 2 or 3 in the last 10 years. That may not be the problem, but keep an eye on it.
Electrical splicing
The best way to splice electrical connections on a boat is to use butt splices. The twist type are not ABS-approved and may cause corrosion. When you use a butt splice: after the wires are connected, take a bit of silicone and dab it onto both sides of the butt splice to seal the endcaps. This will seal it from any moisture and ensure a good contact.
The best way to splice electrical connections on a boat is to use butt splices. The twist type are not ABS-approved and may cause corrosion. When you use a butt splice: after the wires are connected, take a bit of silicone and dab it onto both sides of the butt splice to seal the endcaps. This will seal it from any moisture and ensure a good contact.
When Gord said the pump should always
be left "on: when the boat is unattended, he means that the pump and float switch is wired so that when the all the battary switches and pannel switches are off, if you lift the float the pump will turn on. Also when you turn on battery switch and pump switch on the pannel the pump will turn on, bypassing the float switch. Guys did I get this right? Can I hear an amen?
be left "on: when the boat is unattended, he means that the pump and float switch is wired so that when the all the battary switches and pannel switches are off, if you lift the float the pump will turn on. Also when you turn on battery switch and pump switch on the pannel the pump will turn on, bypassing the float switch. Guys did I get this right? Can I hear an amen?
Roger!
I'll give one of those to everyone that offered ... Gord, I printed your link for future reference. BTW, have you ever sailed into Hole in the Wall on Pigeon Point, Minn.? Many years ago, I was on a survey crew and we spent 3 days on that peninsula. We had a harrowing ride on a small boat heading back to Grand Portage in the afternoon when the wind picked up. The cold water up there is not forgiving even in the middle of summer!
I'll give one of those to everyone that offered ... Gord, I printed your link for future reference. BTW, have you ever sailed into Hole in the Wall on Pigeon Point, Minn.? Many years ago, I was on a survey crew and we spent 3 days on that peninsula. We had a harrowing ride on a small boat heading back to Grand Portage in the afternoon when the wind picked up. The cold water up there is not forgiving even in the middle of summer!
"Auto-On"
Scott: Thanks for clarifying the “Automatic-On” issue. Yes, we’ve anchored at “Hole In the Wall”, off the Pigeon River (US-CDN border). It’s a great spot, roughly half way between Grand Marais, Mn, and Thunder Bay, Ont. We used to swim in Lk. Superior, but after 10 years in southern waters, we’ve lost our taste for it (or gained some sanity).
Scott: Thanks for clarifying the “Automatic-On” issue. Yes, we’ve anchored at “Hole In the Wall”, off the Pigeon River (US-CDN border). It’s a great spot, roughly half way between Grand Marais, Mn, and Thunder Bay, Ont. We used to swim in Lk. Superior, but after 10 years in southern waters, we’ve lost our taste for it (or gained some sanity).
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