Bilge Pump jsut runs and runs

[rortega46]

I have a H28 and recently replaced the old reliable Rule bilge pump after it stopped working. After a short while the float switch on the new Rule 750 gph bilge pump would stick and the pump would run continuously and not shut off for a day or two. I replaced it again yesterday with an identical pump and after filling the bilge with water it ran for ~ 12 hours before shutting off. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible the installation is the cause of the sticking float switch? Is it possible the slope of the bilge bottom is preventing the float switch from emptying? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot would be appreciated. If you’ve had this problem and just want to share the pain feel free to reply as misery loves company.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Does it run continuously or just on, off, on, off, over and over?

If the former, it has to be the float switch. Something is making it hang open. I prefer the Johnson Pump Ultima switch with no moving parts, just two contacts. When they are both wet, they activate the switch. The Rule flapper ones are unreliable, especially when they get old. It's pointless to not replace it whenever you replace the pump. Or, try the Johnson one.

If the latter, fit a check valve in the discharge line as close as possible to the pump itself. Nearly all bilge pumps stop pumping when they themselves (or their float switches) are dry. The water in the discharge line stops flowing and anything that did not make it to the exit flows back down the hose into the bilge. Very often this is plenty enough to activate the float switch again. And since the water wasn't pumped far enough to leave the exit in the first place, thus you can have an endless cycle of pump on, pump off, etc etc. till the battery is affected.

The problem with the check valve is that you will always carry a hoseful of water between it and the highest part of the hose downstream from it. There is no way to get this out without disconnecting the hose from the valve and then mopping it out of the bilge manually. I came up with an idea for Diana-- not yet realized-- to put an air fitting in the hose right after the check valve, so that seasonally I can attach an air hose and blow the residual water out to avoid mold and other icky buildup. The check valve will keep the air from damaging the pump that end.

(BTW-- you might go to WM for your next pump and buy the extended warranty. In two years, go back and replace the pump and buy another warranty. You'll have a two-year subscription to bilge pumps for 10% of the cost of a new one each time. They all fail; why not take advantage of the West Advantage? )

 

[Benny17441]

Check your installation of the float switch. It is very likely the orientation and slope of the switch may be the cause of the problem. With standard float swirches I llike to install on a flat surface as close to the centerline as posible with a bow to aft orientation.

 

[rortega46]

Check your installation of the float switch. It is very likely the orientation and slope of the switch may be the cause of the problem. With standard float swirches I llike to install on a flat surface as close to the centerline as posible with a bow to aft orientation.

The float switch in an integral part of the bilge pump. It is installed on the centerline sloping from bow to stern. Maybe the pump in not strong enough to push the water over the loop leaving water in the line. I am baffled.

 

[weinie]

Low voltage can keep the automated pumps from shutting off. Check with a multimeter.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

The float switch in an integral part of the bilge pump. It is installed on the centerline sloping from bow to stern. Maybe the pump in not strong enough to push the water over the loop leaving water in the line. I am baffled.

If the pump is installed on a slopping surface, yes it can run for a long time if positioned the wrong circular direction. You need to put the pump on a flat surface horizontal with the seawater.