bilge pump inoperative today.

[ironhors42]

Lucky me, today I went down to boat at 6pm to pick something up so I could do work on the boat parts at home. The bilge was 3/4 full of water and pump not working at all. I was blown away because I alway check my pump when I arrive at the boat.I pump it all out with a vac and will go check again tommorrow. I not good with electrical work on boat or at home, but I know I need to learn about it or keep having someone else do it for me.
I like to know what I can do now to get pump back to working. How is the pump wire up for power to pump, so I can try to figure it out myself. Is there basic wiring for the bilge pump and is all pump basically wire up same way.
I live in Florida and it raining every day terrible and have more rain coming, so this worry me.
Any information will help until it get completely fit.
Thanks Phil.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Typically bilge pumps are wired through a "On/Off/Auto" switch that is directly connected to the battery. This is done so if you turn the main power switch off, the bilge pump still works. If you are arranged in this way, here is how I would trouble shoot the problem.
First, put the bilge pump switch to "On" or it might be labeled "Manual". Does the pump turn on?

If no, then check the wiring from the switch to the battery. Sometimes this is direct; a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the switch, right to the battery with a fuse in line. Other times this goes through the "1/2/Both/Off" switch. On my Catalina for instance, the original set up was that the positive wire from the "On/Off/Auto" switch was connected to the #1 switch post. This gave a constant connection to battery #1 but there was no fuse in line. Check all of your connections and any inline fuses.

Second, if the pump turns on with the "On/Off/Auto" switch turned to on, did water get pumped out?

If no, turn off and remove the pump from the bilge. Something could be lodged in the impeller. If there is a check valve, it could be stuck closed. If the pump is a Rule, the bottom housing could have cracked and that would prevent the pump from pushing water up. There could also be a clog in your hose depending on how dirty your bilge was.

If yes, than turn the "On/Off/Auto" switch to auto and manually lift the float. Did the pump turn on? If the pump turns on, than everything is fine and just continue to watch it. If the pump doesn't turn on, than there is a loose connection to the float or the float is broken and needs to be replaced. Most boaters, such as MaineSail and myself, prefer the electronic float switches, like the Water Witch one, over the new mechanical float switches from Rule and others (not as good since that had to stop using mercury).

Hope this helps.

Good luck,

Jesse

 

[MSter]

Ironhorse. Best to start learning about boat electrics by using a test light. Pick one up at HD, Lowes , Napa, They're not expensive. an alligator clip on one end, connect to any negative, and a sharp pointy end with a small bulb which will light when touched to a positive circuit. Try it on your battery first and then use to see were you have power and were you don't.
Best of luck.
MSter

 

[ironhors42]

Thanks you Mr. J.K.Boston, I going to do what you said and I can get it working again. You really explain in laid man term.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I'd check the battery with a voltmeter (under $5 at Harbor Freight, under $20 at Ace) first to make sure it isn't low/dead, check the fuse, then the float switch (separate type are notorious for going bad) which means baring the wires to the pump and touching to the battery terminals or taking the switch out of the circuit and connecting the wires together and the pump should come on. If the switch is built in to the pump and is bad the whole thing will need replacing. The separate float switches are available without buying a new pump.
You may or may not have a toggle on/off/auto switch, but if so take a look at the connections, make sure they are tight and clean and this goes for all the connections, if they are green you'll need to fix them.
If you have to replace the switch or pump just wire the way it is now, it worked before right? Use heatshrink butt splices for any wiring in the bilge and tie it up to keep it out of the residual water.
If the pump looks old it may be a good idea to just go ahead and replace it, they are built cheap (even the computer controlled ones with timers and laser beams) and don't last forever. Walmart has them, as does West Marine, etc. I wouldn't Amazon and wait a few days to save a couple of bucks- too important for that.
I'd make it a priority to get the leaks stopped. A boat that is relying on the bilge pump to stay afloat is sinking and just waiting for a few days alone to do so.

 

[seadaddler]

Float

Try remove the screws for the float switch and the float by hand to check it out