March 23, 2008 Hi, Would like your advice, opinion, or condolences. Always boat drama for me when making repairs. I was attempting to replace an automatic bilge switch on our 1982 Hunter 37 Cherubini Cutter. When trying to put the screw that holds the switch in place and snug it up the screw broke. Also, the screw would not go in far enough. So, I decided to drill it out and make it a little deeper. Bad move. When drilling, it when through what appears to be a thin steel or brass plate? At first air starting coming out of the hole but then after about fifteen minutes or so water starting coming through the hole. I finally put a screw in the hole and slowed the leak to a very slow rate. The switch is loose in the bilge. It should come on. Hope it works this week. We live a hundred miles from where it is berthed so only go on weekends. The switch and bilge pump are located in the middle of the keel and mid-ship just forward of the galley. Questions, what damage have I done? What was the air pocket? How is the water getting in since the outer haul should be sealed? What is the best way to reseal it? And, do I need to get the water out and air back into the pocket it came from which would mean putting it on the hard? We were looking forward to exploring the ICW and Outbanks this summer and I am not taking my drill. Your advice is welcomed.
Bilge Leak
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sounds like you need some waterproof epoxy and a plug to seal the leak.
The plug could be a stainless screw or a hardwood tapered dowel. Dry the bilge the best you can first. You could also epoxy the base of the bilge pump into the bilge, as drilling in the bilge is something you're not good at.
The plug could be a stainless screw or a hardwood tapered dowel. Dry the bilge the best you can first. You could also epoxy the base of the bilge pump into the bilge, as drilling in the bilge is something you're not good at.
H37C bilge leak.
Bummer! My own H37C is right across the river from you at Matthews Point. And it has several screws in the bilge, the ones you mention plus another pump and two battery hold downs. And I always wondered just how thick the fiberglass is and whether there is a cavity under there. I guess we now know. Your problem is not serious and the water in the cavity is also not a problem. Even a stainless screw with washer and caulk will seal the hole. But the previous post about epoxy is the way to go. Marinetex can even be applied in the wet. I use very short screws in the bilge and just drill starter holes. Maybe you should buy a collar that fits the drill bit to limit the depth of the holes to around 3/16". The heavy hull stub that the keel bolts to is obviously not solid. But I always thought the bottom of the bilge was thicker than that. Water between the keel and hull and around the keel bolts I would consider normal. There are too many forces on the keel/hull joint to have a leakproof seal I think. So even though I do not worry about water in that cavity I do tighten the keel bolts every season. It takes a big deep socket, 1 and 1/4 inch I think. Good luck and look for Ladylove on the Pamlico this year.
Bummer! My own H37C is right across the river from you at Matthews Point. And it has several screws in the bilge, the ones you mention plus another pump and two battery hold downs. And I always wondered just how thick the fiberglass is and whether there is a cavity under there. I guess we now know. Your problem is not serious and the water in the cavity is also not a problem. Even a stainless screw with washer and caulk will seal the hole. But the previous post about epoxy is the way to go. Marinetex can even be applied in the wet. I use very short screws in the bilge and just drill starter holes. Maybe you should buy a collar that fits the drill bit to limit the depth of the holes to around 3/16". The heavy hull stub that the keel bolts to is obviously not solid. But I always thought the bottom of the bilge was thicker than that. Water between the keel and hull and around the keel bolts I would consider normal. There are too many forces on the keel/hull joint to have a leakproof seal I think. So even though I do not worry about water in that cavity I do tighten the keel bolts every season. It takes a big deep socket, 1 and 1/4 inch I think. Good luck and look for Ladylove on the Pamlico this year.
LadyLove
Ladylove, Thanks so much. I should be able to fix it with the advice received. Something like this I can't get it out of my mined until I know how to fix and then get it done. It's all new to me but with help from folks like you I'm getting better. See-Ya out on the Pamlico and will be looking for you EveryAfter
Ladylove, Thanks so much. I should be able to fix it with the advice received. Something like this I can't get it out of my mined until I know how to fix and then get it done. It's all new to me but with help from folks like you I'm getting better. See-Ya out on the Pamlico and will be looking for you EveryAfter
Ed, so what are the details of keel stub
I assumed it was solid - you say it is not. Wouldn't it be solid where the keel bolts come up?
I assumed it was solid - you say it is not. Wouldn't it be solid where the keel bolts come up?
Hi Scott, I cannot speak to the model in question, but...
our P42 has a solid glass keel stub. The keel stub joint has a thick layer of 3M5200 that bonds the keel to the stub and secured with several torqued keel bolts. Something does not sound right with Bilge Leak. To me it sounds as though water under pressure filled an air pocket in the keel stub forcing air through the hole until the pocket filled with water, then water began to flow. I would be suspicious of water leaking past the keel stub joint and through the hole he just drilled. Sealing the hole will stop the water flow, but if it were my boat I would haul and have a marine surveyor inspect the joint for seal failure. Terry
our P42 has a solid glass keel stub. The keel stub joint has a thick layer of 3M5200 that bonds the keel to the stub and secured with several torqued keel bolts. Something does not sound right with Bilge Leak. To me it sounds as though water under pressure filled an air pocket in the keel stub forcing air through the hole until the pocket filled with water, then water began to flow. I would be suspicious of water leaking past the keel stub joint and through the hole he just drilled. Sealing the hole will stop the water flow, but if it were my boat I would haul and have a marine surveyor inspect the joint for seal failure. Terry
How deep were screws?
I replaced my bildge float swith some 2 yrs ago and as I recall the screws ( original) were close to 2 inches long I put em back in the same holes and have had no such issues Must be more "body: at the bottom of the bilge in the 340?? t
I replaced my bildge float swith some 2 yrs ago and as I recall the screws ( original) were close to 2 inches long I put em back in the same holes and have had no such issues Must be more "body: at the bottom of the bilge in the 340?? t
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