I keep hearing warnings about not using a check valve in the bilge. I used one and it has worked fine. They are extremely simple and reliable. The alternative was to have the backwash continuously cycling the automatic pump and burn it out. Why should the weight of the water stop a check valve from working if the pump has the capability of pushing that water out any other time? I can see a jam of the valve occuring over time, but that is like anything else that should be regularly tested to ensure it is working. Your pump can fail too and a check valve is a lot simpler than a pump and doesn't need electricity. Comments? Lessons Learned?
Bilge Check Valve
- Thread starter lrschultz
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They can, as you have found, work effectively to prevent backflow. The only problem is that they CAN fail and you won't KNOW until it's too late. Bilge pumps inherently pick up debris which when not discharged, fall back to the backflow valve and restrict it's movement. Periodic testing only serves to confirm it works at the time it is tested, regardless of what it is.
A bilge pump is necessary as are lots of other things prone to failure. The issue is one of why take the chance with a piece of equipment which is unnecessary?
Other options:
use a diaphragm pump (self-priming) and can be mounted anywhere it is accessible for maintenance and will suck the bilge dry. Diaphragm pumps are also much more reliable.
use a small bilge pump low and a large pump high - in combination with a small diameter lose, the low pump will limit the amount recharged. This gives you redundancy as well.
reroute the existing hose to lessen the head - sometimes difficult to do
So, as there are these and other options to ensure a dry bilge, the question becomes one of how much risk you can accept.
A bilge pump is necessary as are lots of other things prone to failure. The issue is one of why take the chance with a piece of equipment which is unnecessary?
Other options:
use a diaphragm pump (self-priming) and can be mounted anywhere it is accessible for maintenance and will suck the bilge dry. Diaphragm pumps are also much more reliable.
use a small bilge pump low and a large pump high - in combination with a small diameter lose, the low pump will limit the amount recharged. This gives you redundancy as well.
reroute the existing hose to lessen the head - sometimes difficult to do
So, as there are these and other options to ensure a dry bilge, the question becomes one of how much risk you can accept.
another option
I also have used a check valve in the bilge pump. Like you mine was cycling the back flow water. Here is what I did. Go ahead and put a check valve in. Treat it like a maintenance item and clean and check every year (minimum)or what every time frame you feel is adequate. Next install a high water bilge pump independent of the one with the check value. This will be a redundant system and will cover you if the other pump fails. Depending on you bilge depth that will determine the placement of the second pump. I can think of several boats that this may be difficult to do but it is possible on most boat. You may also want to hook a buzzer or some other type of alarm to the high water pump to alert you or someone to the possibility that there is a problem on your boat. If you want to get real cautious you could even use the starter battery for power instead of the house battery (or isolate the two pumps power source from each other) so that a dead battery won't sink you boat. Just as info I recently had to replace a pump in a shower type sump pump,the pump, a regular bilge pump had gone bad and low and behold there was check valve in the overboard drain side from the manufacture ! It was not a true check valve but for all practical purposes that is what it was. This idea is a little redundant but it is not that expensive and you will sleep better at night to know it is there even if you never need it. Just my thoughts.......
I also have used a check valve in the bilge pump. Like you mine was cycling the back flow water. Here is what I did. Go ahead and put a check valve in. Treat it like a maintenance item and clean and check every year (minimum)or what every time frame you feel is adequate. Next install a high water bilge pump independent of the one with the check value. This will be a redundant system and will cover you if the other pump fails. Depending on you bilge depth that will determine the placement of the second pump. I can think of several boats that this may be difficult to do but it is possible on most boat. You may also want to hook a buzzer or some other type of alarm to the high water pump to alert you or someone to the possibility that there is a problem on your boat. If you want to get real cautious you could even use the starter battery for power instead of the house battery (or isolate the two pumps power source from each other) so that a dead battery won't sink you boat. Just as info I recently had to replace a pump in a shower type sump pump,the pump, a regular bilge pump had gone bad and low and behold there was check valve in the overboard drain side from the manufacture ! It was not a true check valve but for all practical purposes that is what it was. This idea is a little redundant but it is not that expensive and you will sleep better at night to know it is there even if you never need it. Just my thoughts.......
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