Bilge back flow problem -Hunter 340

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James

Need some help on automatic bilge and switch . My automatic bilge is a Rule 1100 with a float switch. Both are schewed into area where the Keel bolts attach inbetween the manual bilge. The float switch and the bilge operate automaticly. However, when the automatic bilge shuts off there is a back flow of water into the bilge and the float switch is activated again. So ! it never stops running. I purchased this Hunter ,340, 1998 used. So I dont know what the original set up was. Possibly the previous owner changed the set up. Ant ideas?
 
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jim

always some back flow

there will always be some amount of backflow from the water in the tubing at the outlet of the pump to the overboard fitting. look at this length of tubing to determine if there is an excess amount. Then if not sounds like the float switch range is to small maybe a new float switch with a large swing range? jim
 
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Debo Cox

Check valve...but use caution

Hi James, If your backflow seems excessive (and tripping the pump to operate seems a little excessive to me) you might install a check valve. It's an in-line valve that only allows water to flow one way. You'll need to make totally sure it's installed in the right direction, or your your bilge pump won't pump! Also, make sure that your pump is able to pump water through it effectively (in the right direction). Some check valves can be stiff to operate, thus reducing the amount of water pumped out. This should solve the problem. I did this to my Hunter 30, and it works great.
 
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress

No check valve...

If it fails or gets stuck, the bilge pump can't pump any water overboard. Move the float switch--or the whole bilge pump if the float is integral--a little higher up in the boat so the water has to rise higher than the amount that runs back from the top of the loop in the hose to turn it on. That won't cure the runback...unfortunately there is no safe cure for it that doesn't require some effort on your part. The correct solution to that problem is a hand pump and a bucket or shop vac at the end of each weekend aboard.
 
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Wayne Estabrooks

Same problem on my 1997 340

James; My 1997 340 came new with the same problem. The runback was so great that it would cause the bilge pump to continuously cycle. The runback was enough to trigger the float switch. The bilge pump would pump the water out, the pump would shut off and the runback was enough to trigger the float switch again even though it was only about 2 cupfulls. Hunter suggested a check valve but my fix was to install a dripless shaft seal. Now the bilge is always dry. If there is a leak the bilge pump will come on. I plan to raise the float switch to prevent the cycling. If I do get some water in the bilge I remove it with a hand pump and dry the bottom of the bilge with a sponge. I hope you enjoy your 340. We have enjoyed ours for 6 years. sv Wind Drift h340
 
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Al Nash

PEGGY IS CORRECT

My Hunter 34 had a check valve and during a routine check in which I poured a bucket of water into the bilge, the pump ran but didn't pump. After replacing the check valve, I found that the pump wouldn't overcome the check valve about 10 percent of the time (with an old and a new pump and check valves). Rule says never to use a check valve.
 
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