Bilge and Cabin Seat Access Boards

woodster · Nov 16, 2014

BrianW said:
My H26's wood laminate bilge and cabin seat storage access boards have started delaminating one by one from a series of water leaks. Now that the leaks are finally fixed, I'm looking to replace the access boards. I am considering polyethylene (cutting board material) and starboard. Do y'all have any other suggestions for 1/2" thick material? Thanks, BrianW

that would be a good choice or you can get some marine plywood cut them out and coat them with fresh paint and they should last a long time

Ron20324 · Nov 16, 2014

I don't know if all Home Depots nationwide are doing this- or maybe just the ones close to the boating waters- but the Annapolis store had a sign out front that they were carrying marina plywood. You might find a place that does cutouts, like for sinks or windows, and you'd find pieces of the size you need? Espiecially at a place that makes boats.

Dalliance · Nov 16, 2014

I assume these are the lay in access panels under your seat cushions and not anything structural.

If the delamination is minor and just around the edges, you may be able to repair them. First clean and dry the panels thoroughly. Then inject epoxy between the delaminated areas with a syringe, clamp the areas between a couple scraps of 3/4" thick wood with C-clamps and wipe off the epoxy that oozes out. Be careful not to accidentally epoxy the scrap wood or clamps to your panels. When the epoxy has cured, sand and a seal all the edges and both faces so this can't happen again.

If the panels are beyond repair or repair sounds like more work than replacement, then marine grade or at least exterior grade plywood or MDF would be reasonable materials to use and may be less expensive than StarBoard. Again, just seal them thoroughly on all edges and both faces.

centerline · Nov 16, 2014

woodster said:
that would be a good choice or you can get some marine plywood cut them out and coat them with fresh paint and they should last a long time

I agree... marine plywood or MDO plywood.

on a tight budget you could use regular plywood, but as it is usually only 3 ply in that thickness, it wont be as strong. it depends on the free span of the hole, as to how strong it needs to be for the purpose.

no matter what type of wood you use, i would cover it with epoxy to help prevent delam in the future...

if you decide you want to go with the plastic starboard option, I would go with seaboard... its the same stuff only a different manufacture and lots cheaper.

the issue with the sea/starboard option is that it is slippery, so the hatch covers wont stay put as nicely, if they just lay in a bit of a recess in the liner..... hinged they work fine, but then so does plywood.

in my opinion, its not the material that the covers are/were made out of that is/was the problem.... so if you keep the unwanted water out of the boat, the plywood will last for years, yet if you make the hatch covers out of plastic, they will still last for years even when the boat is flooded with water and eveything else in it is being ruined...

my point is, you can build, or you can over-build, but if you fix the problem, there wont be a problem any more

Anonymous 121765 · Nov 17, 2014

Brian,

Polyethylene and/or starboard is not a good choice if the access covers are long and/or wide & will have weight placed on them like sitting etc. especially polypropylene.

Both types are prone to sagging under weight & heat. If still wanting to do this, one option would be to add stiffeners on the undersides. You can talk with some on what configuration, type & shape for best structural support. Don't bolt them on but rather epoxy them in place. These fusion will give you better support.

Just my thoughts pal.

CR

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Nov 17, 2014

Just to point out-the last sheet of 1/2 marine ply I bought (fir) was $75.00. Would be LOTS left over.

1/2 inch plywood now, AC fir exterior, is NOT 1/2- it's thinner. The next size up would be a better choice, epoxy coated and painted

woodster · Nov 17, 2014

TSBB 2 said:
Just to point out-the last sheet of 1/2 marine ply I bought (fir) was $75.00. Would be LOTS left over.

1/2 inch plywood now, AC fir exterior, is NOT 1/2- it's thinner. The next size up would be a better choice, epoxy coated and painted

that price is about what i paid for the same did yours have any foot balls on the back side...if i remember correctly years ago they had no foot ball voids on either side back then

Parsons · Nov 17, 2014

Captain Ron wakes up before I do, so he beat me to it. I second his comments about plywood being more appropriate than PE or StarBoard. StarBoard is great stuff, particularly where exposed to weather. It isn't great for structural strength as it tends to deflect when bent, particularly when it warms. If I was going to sit on this for a few years, I'd pick plywood and give it a couple coats of primer + paint to lock out the humidity. Savings aside, it's the better choice.

Rick Webb · Nov 17, 2014

I Need Some Too

WE should make a jig and have a party cutting these out.

Originals were cabinet material with an almond colored melamine top. Wonder if a cabinet maker would have or at least have access to the material?

centerline · Nov 17, 2014

Rick Webb said:
WE should make a jig and have a party cutting these out.

Originals were cabinet material with an almond colored melamine top. Wonder if a cabinet maker would have or at least have access to the material?

MDO or HDO plywood... there are manufactures who have several different pattern options for the overlay...

Ron20324 · Nov 17, 2014

Rick Webb said:
...Originals were cabinet material with an almond colored melamine top. Wonder if a cabinet maker would have or at least have access to the material?

As in post #3.

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Nov 17, 2014

woodster said:
that price is about what i paid for the same did yours have any foot balls on the back side...if i remember correctly years ago they had no foot ball voids on either side back then

Yes, unfortunately they did. AB Marine ply. But this was for interior work, that was epoxied, so it was ok

Better than the 1/2 "marine" I was shown a few years ago- IT was 4 ply!!!. I declined and made a 300 mile round trip to get real marine plywood.

deltaten · Nov 18, 2014

Being the cheap bastage I am; I simply used some construction grade plywood I had laying around. some, I coated with nasty, old polyurethane resin and the rest I varnished. Two years on, all are still just fine. Granted that these were to be a temporary, stop-gap measure; I was not too concerned about aappearance.. The main, sole, 11" by 17" bilge access hatch was selected for no voids or patches on the surface. It looks like the day. it was dropped in, with the exception of a few foot scuffs..The under-cushion fillers were not so pretty. The ones that I coated with poly have the expected "blush" from moisture on occasion. I use it as a. guide to when I need to sponge out the settees

..

To be clear... Idon't have a Holly and teak sole. JUst plain almond textured FG liner. So,if all ya want is to keep from falling in the bilge; or settling down *into* the settee , use anything ya. gots laying about that's of the (close enuff) thickness needed