My Hunter 23 had a crises and for some reason the bow pulpit bracket that held the light on broke and cracked the light. I bought a new light but there are not any instructions on wiring the thing. It does not have screws to attach the wiring. It has 2 clips on each end of the bracket that attaches the bulb. The only thing I can figure is run the wire through the little holes in the bracket. This does not seem like a very good setup. The bicolor light is a Hellsmarine 3562. They absolutely have no directions. Help.
bi color bow light
- Thread starter teacher63
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According to the specifications for that light, it has a grommet on the bottom for the cable to enter. As to where they connect, post a picture. A thousand eyes and all that
Cheers,
Brad
Brad is correct on a photo. Please post one here and send me one to davecondon@mindspring.com and I will advise. With bow pulpits, a flat metal piece was welded on to the bow pulpit and if that is broken, take the boat and have that reparied and/or replaced.
When I get your photo, I will respond to you privately and to the forum. I will be away this weekend going to a train meet running n scale trains. see ya.
crazy dave condon
When I get your photo, I will respond to you privately and to the forum. I will be away this weekend going to a train meet running n scale trains. see ya.
crazy dave condon
The flat stainless bracket on my 23 came from the prior owner already snapped off. He had tried to epoxy it back on - yeah, right. I can't easily get my boat near a welder, and don't want to bother with removing the whole pulpit. I put mine back on by making a wedge shaped piece of hardwood, the wedge being the right angle so that when placed against the vertical center stainless stanchion, the front edge is vertical. The lamp base screws to that. I put a slot through the wood so that a stainless hose clamp holds it to the stanchion tube. So far, so good. I did put about 5 coats of Cetol on the wood, though any waterproofer ought to work.
From what I recall, the wires from the supply have spade connectors on them, and the metal clips that hold the tubular bulb (I think it is a "festoon" bulb) have flat metal attachments that the spade connector slides over. If yours is like that and the wires lack the connectors, easy to crimp new ones on.
Is it this lamp: http://www.hellamarine.com/?a=3&t=3&View=FullStory&productID=359
If so, I can just barely see what looks like the connector for one wire at the bottom of the photo, sort of sticking up from the base of the metal clip that holds the bulb. That is what the flat female connector would slide over. You can get those connectors anywhere, like Home Depot.
From what I recall, the wires from the supply have spade connectors on them, and the metal clips that hold the tubular bulb (I think it is a "festoon" bulb) have flat metal attachments that the spade connector slides over. If yours is like that and the wires lack the connectors, easy to crimp new ones on.
Is it this lamp: http://www.hellamarine.com/?a=3&t=3&View=FullStory&productID=359
If so, I can just barely see what looks like the connector for one wire at the bottom of the photo, sort of sticking up from the base of the metal clip that holds the bulb. That is what the flat female connector would slide over. You can get those connectors anywhere, like Home Depot.
You could always fabricate a back plate like the ones on the boat but a little longer either screwed on or pop riveted in place but with the screws, make sure the heads are flat and do not protrude outward if welding is impossible.
I am surprised about the comment that welding cannot be done which is true if in the water. I had to take the boats to a local welder who then could do that for me.
crazy dave condon
I am surprised about the comment that welding cannot be done which is true if in the water. I had to take the boats to a local welder who then could do that for me.
crazy dave condon
The reason there are no instructions is even folks with no experence can figure it out (just like you did). The wires have to exit the unit someplace and there is that groment and there are two wires on the old one and two wires on the new one so that is pretty much a no brainer. Since the light does not care which way the current flows you can't get the polarity of the wires wrong either. One is most likly black on the unit and black on the boat side also making it less goof proof.
Give your self some credit, you got it right.
Now all you have to do is practice good splicing techniques to keep the salt water out. aka sealant and tape.
Not all things on boats is rocket science.
Give your self some credit, you got it right.
Now all you have to do is practice good splicing techniques to keep the salt water out. aka sealant and tape.
Not all things on boats is rocket science.
You pull the wire through the grommet and crimp on a female friction fit like the one pictured. I prefer the 100% shielded versions though where the blue plastic covers the entire connector....
My original bracket was broken when I purchased my h23 and two angle brackets screwed on in its place. I ordered a new bracket from Garhauer and installed a new LED 2nm light. I used SS rivets to mount the new bracket. Also my wires are soldered and heat shrinked. Pics in my profile
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