Better H23 reefing system for the heck-of-it.

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Greg Stebbins

I’ve never been to impressed with the mainsail reefing system on the 23. So I fixed it. Total cost for this mod is less than $50. This is what I’ve done. I opened up hole in the side of the boom at the boom’s widest point in cross section and about 2/3 the distance from the gooseneck to the end fitting. I then installed a steel exit port (available from West/Defender) over the hole. I bring the reef line outside the boom through this port. I next installed a small cheek block on the same side as and inline with the port on the boom. I positioned the block about 6 inches aft of the reefing grommet in the sail when lowered to boom level. On the side opposite the new block on the boom, I installed a good-sized aluminum cleat. I used the type cleat with a hole through the base. The hole in the cleat should line up with the back edge of the sleeve in the block on the other side. The reef line now comes out of the boom at the port, goes through the block and up through the reef point grommet in the sail. On the other side, the line goes through the hole in the cleat and is cleated with about 6-8 inches of line free. Now to reef, I go the mast release the main halyard and lower the sail and hook the reef ring. The back can be pulled in from either the gooseneck or the new cleat in the side of the boom. I tend to use both. Initially pulling the sail down at the gooseneck and doing the final tightening at the back cleat after I roll and tie the sail body. With the sail reefed, rolled and tied, you should have a nice tight 45 degree angle on the reef line from the block, through the reef grommet and back through the back cleat. The grommet should be right down on the boom with good out-haul tension. You can easily make the final adjustments with the back cleat and the 6-8 inches of line left there. Yea, I know, but I’ve grown fond of those goofy gooseneck cleats.
 
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