So your engine quits and you need a tow back into a marina too tight for your skills to sail into. You pull out your anchor rode, detach the anchor and heave the line to a Good Samaritan. Where do you attach the line to a Hunter 26? (Mine is a 1995) mast? bow cleat? U-bolt on bow used for winching on the trailer? other? Many thanks!
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Bow Eye, Without a Doubt
If you are picked up by someone with some training when the tow boat gets you closer to the dock or channel they will likely bring you up into a side tow. Have all your fenders on the starboard side but do not tie them off so that they cannot be adjusted. There will be four lines a forward and reverse tow line and a fore and aft spring line. On your boat I would use the bow and stern cleat, the bow eye and the starboard winch keep them clear. It will all depend upon how the boats match up to one another. There are a bunch of other places to attach lines before using the mast use that last.
If you are picked up by someone with some training when the tow boat gets you closer to the dock or channel they will likely bring you up into a side tow. Have all your fenders on the starboard side but do not tie them off so that they cannot be adjusted. There will be four lines a forward and reverse tow line and a fore and aft spring line. On your boat I would use the bow and stern cleat, the bow eye and the starboard winch keep them clear. It will all depend upon how the boats match up to one another. There are a bunch of other places to attach lines before using the mast use that last.
Where to attach line...it depends
My first choice would be the cleat for the anchor rode. If the wind and waves are up or if you have a long way to go then the base of the mast is probably better (you also don't have to go all the way out to the bow to secure the line). You might consider keeping a dedicated towline (at least 100 ft long) in the cockpit locker, for several reasons. It's much faster than unshackling the anchor, anchor rodes get cruddy (even if you don't anchor out a lot) and I know the person offering the tow will appreciate having a nice clean line to work with. Finally, you never know when someone may need a tow from you. If the towboat is a powerboat, remind the skipper that you have to be towed at your normal speed, not theirs. Once you're under tow, adjust the towline length so that both boats are on the crest of a wave at the same time. This helps reduce the force on the line. The towline should also be ready to cast off at a moment's notice if there are any problems. Once you get to sheltered water close to the marina, you may want to consider tying up fore and aft alongside the towboat rather than trailing astern. It makes maneuvering in close quarters easier. I hope I was able to help. Peter H23 "Raven"
My first choice would be the cleat for the anchor rode. If the wind and waves are up or if you have a long way to go then the base of the mast is probably better (you also don't have to go all the way out to the bow to secure the line). You might consider keeping a dedicated towline (at least 100 ft long) in the cockpit locker, for several reasons. It's much faster than unshackling the anchor, anchor rodes get cruddy (even if you don't anchor out a lot) and I know the person offering the tow will appreciate having a nice clean line to work with. Finally, you never know when someone may need a tow from you. If the towboat is a powerboat, remind the skipper that you have to be towed at your normal speed, not theirs. Once you're under tow, adjust the towline length so that both boats are on the crest of a wave at the same time. This helps reduce the force on the line. The towline should also be ready to cast off at a moment's notice if there are any problems. Once you get to sheltered water close to the marina, you may want to consider tying up fore and aft alongside the towboat rather than trailing astern. It makes maneuvering in close quarters easier. I hope I was able to help. Peter H23 "Raven"
Mast Base ???
Hi just read the reccomendations to you re towing points. Mostly good butnot with a deck stepped mast. The mast base is a good strong point with a KEEL stepped mast. With a deck stepped, just imajine a good sharp pull at the base where there is little holding it apart from the weight of the mast.
Hi just read the reccomendations to you re towing points. Mostly good butnot with a deck stepped mast. The mast base is a good strong point with a KEEL stepped mast. With a deck stepped, just imajine a good sharp pull at the base where there is little holding it apart from the weight of the mast.
Strength of the mast step
My mast step is bolted through the whole deck/step structure with 4 quarter inch bolts. That is as strong as any other structure on deck, except for the toe rail. David Lady Lillie
My mast step is bolted through the whole deck/step structure with 4 quarter inch bolts. That is as strong as any other structure on deck, except for the toe rail. David Lady Lillie
Mast step strength
As David noted, most mast steps are through-bolted to the cabin top. In addition, most masts are bolted to the step at the base and the ones that don't (and many of those that do) have an opening in the underside that fits over a short vertical pin or tab on the step. Finally, the tension from four shrouds, the forestay and the backstay provide much more down force than just the weight of the mast. However, I have to admit that my suggestions were based on the assumption that ALL boats have positive connection between the mast base and step, so they could be misleading for someone whose boat is not so equipped. Every skipper should check his/her mast base and step to make sure that they can take towing loads, and if not should select a more suitable location for connecting a towline. Thanks for pointing that out, Tony. Peter H23 "Raven"
As David noted, most mast steps are through-bolted to the cabin top. In addition, most masts are bolted to the step at the base and the ones that don't (and many of those that do) have an opening in the underside that fits over a short vertical pin or tab on the step. Finally, the tension from four shrouds, the forestay and the backstay provide much more down force than just the weight of the mast. However, I have to admit that my suggestions were based on the assumption that ALL boats have positive connection between the mast base and step, so they could be misleading for someone whose boat is not so equipped. Every skipper should check his/her mast base and step to make sure that they can take towing loads, and if not should select a more suitable location for connecting a towline. Thanks for pointing that out, Tony. Peter H23 "Raven"
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