refinish interior
Bubble head,
Sounds like good start. I have no experience with Cetol on interior but agree with Keith as to not use gloss. In fact I use satin which requires less work on touch up or repairs blending.
I too question the Cetol which is intended for UV protection exterior.
The reason of oil finishes is not the yearly re oil, but you do not have to seriously sand and scrape to refinish.
I would not use fine steel wool anymore on wood finishes. Steel wool leaves traces of steel in wood and can rust. Use the 3M scour pads. Go to 3M web site and find the pads which it gives equivalents to the grades of steel wool.
Now for kicker, do not brush finish on but use use nitrile gloves and small wide container to hold which ever finish you choose and scrub finish into wood. I use maroon 3M pads for first coat then move to the finner white pads for finish coats.
Also thin first coats. I use all oil base paints. I mix plain paint thinner with oil finish then add small amount of satin urethane for first two coats. I wet out good and scrub (rub) into wood with pads. Let dry a short while and wipe any excess with rag. Let dry for day and do similar for next coat.
I thin all layers. I use the cheap jug of paint thinner. All the odorless mineral spirits that cost more are just refined paint thinner.
The two coats to begin are necessary because no matter how good you think you are, the next day will show places you missed. By using two base coats you solve that issue.
Then proceed to your finish coats. Some guys use 6 or 7 coats. I generally just use two finish coats for same reason as stated above.
None of my finishes are out of can urethane or varnish. I always thin. Some of my cans say do not thin, but bullshit. I learned my method from master craftsman finisher.
http://www.gregorypaolini.com/WWClasses/CD-CompFinish.htm
Ed K