I believe that I am not unlike a lot of other cruisers in that I seldom (never) change my headsail. Realying on reefing right down using the roller furling. This means I very seldom remove my genoa sheets. What options are open to me to attach these sheets. I presently use bowlines, but these add a lot of bulk to the clew and have a habit of catching on rigging etc. when tacking. I can find no good "streamlined" method of attaching lines, unless you splice, which is a little too permanent.
- Status
Colin, just use a loop.
Colin: Rather than have two lines (one port and one starboard), I like to use a single line. Let us see if I can explain this. Fold the entire sheet into two equal parts. Then push the looped end through the clew of the sail. Then take the loose (opposite) end of the line and pull it through the loop. Now you have the same thing without the two knots. The disadvantage of this is that you cannot rotate them end for end periodically but who cares. We sometimes do the same thing with a snap shackle that has a loop on it. This cuts down on the bulk and allows for a quick change on the headsail. The down side is then the headsail is flogging and you try to catch this shackle in your teeth <g>.
Colin: Rather than have two lines (one port and one starboard), I like to use a single line. Let us see if I can explain this. Fold the entire sheet into two equal parts. Then push the looped end through the clew of the sail. Then take the loose (opposite) end of the line and pull it through the loop. Now you have the same thing without the two knots. The disadvantage of this is that you cannot rotate them end for end periodically but who cares. We sometimes do the same thing with a snap shackle that has a loop on it. This cuts down on the bulk and allows for a quick change on the headsail. The down side is then the headsail is flogging and you try to catch this shackle in your teeth <g>.
Best Way
First, you want to avoid shackles flailing around. Although bulky, bowlines are still the prefered method of attatchment. The loop idea is fine except for the following reasons, Once the tension has been applied for any length of time, the lines can become impossible to remove without a Knife. Second, since all the load is at the same place, if the sheet parts at the wear point on the clew, you have no sheets on the sail to help recover the flogging sail. Splices are streamlined, but cannot be removed. In both cases, should you need to take your sail in for maintenance, sailmakers really prefer that you don't bring the sheets with the sail. This is why bowlines are still used most often.
First, you want to avoid shackles flailing around. Although bulky, bowlines are still the prefered method of attatchment. The loop idea is fine except for the following reasons, Once the tension has been applied for any length of time, the lines can become impossible to remove without a Knife. Second, since all the load is at the same place, if the sheet parts at the wear point on the clew, you have no sheets on the sail to help recover the flogging sail. Splices are streamlined, but cannot be removed. In both cases, should you need to take your sail in for maintenance, sailmakers really prefer that you don't bring the sheets with the sail. This is why bowlines are still used most often.
Splice?
Any reason not to use a splice? A splice is a lot stronger than virtually any knot. I have a roller furler too, and don't ever change the sheets until it's time to get new ones. As far as permanancy goes, if one has a knife handy, it comes "undone" very easily. Splices are pretty easy to remake. Are there circumstances that I'm not considering that really make it a bad idea to use a splice?
Any reason not to use a splice? A splice is a lot stronger than virtually any knot. I have a roller furler too, and don't ever change the sheets until it's time to get new ones. As far as permanancy goes, if one has a knife handy, it comes "undone" very easily. Splices are pretty easy to remake. Are there circumstances that I'm not considering that really make it a bad idea to use a splice?
Try this!!
On a piece of scrap double braid... double it so the ends are equal in length from the center... then pretend it went through a clew and became sheets.. then opening the line through it's center using an awl or marlinspike (I use smoothed long nosed plires)... run the port sheet through the starboard drawing it up to about loose knot distance... then run the starboard through the port up close... there you have it... the sheet splice.. a nice neat small package which can even be undone if need be. If you like it use it on your sheets... if you don't like it you had some fun practice in marlinspike seamanship.. good luck and good sailing:
On a piece of scrap double braid... double it so the ends are equal in length from the center... then pretend it went through a clew and became sheets.. then opening the line through it's center using an awl or marlinspike (I use smoothed long nosed plires)... run the port sheet through the starboard drawing it up to about loose knot distance... then run the starboard through the port up close... there you have it... the sheet splice.. a nice neat small package which can even be undone if need be. If you like it use it on your sheets... if you don't like it you had some fun practice in marlinspike seamanship.. good luck and good sailing:
Bowline for me.
But a splice would be better, I think, if I did not need to remove the sheets regularly. Since I occasionally wash them and have to put them away every six months then I need a bowline. Problem with a knot is it hangs up on the mid-stay in light breezes. The splice would fix that. I agree with an earlier post, I would not want a shackle flailing around up there.
But a splice would be better, I think, if I did not need to remove the sheets regularly. Since I occasionally wash them and have to put them away every six months then I need a bowline. Problem with a knot is it hangs up on the mid-stay in light breezes. The splice would fix that. I agree with an earlier post, I would not want a shackle flailing around up there.
Buntline Hitch
You can try a buntline hitch instead of a bowline. I find that I can tie these a bit smaller than a bowline, and in a more compact package. This is a very secure knot (especially if you add a simple stopper), and can be untied if need be. Check out the related link for an article on alternative knots.
You can try a buntline hitch instead of a bowline. I find that I can tie these a bit smaller than a bowline, and in a more compact package. This is a very secure knot (especially if you add a simple stopper), and can be untied if need be. Check out the related link for an article on alternative knots.
I use the loop...
Hi, I've been using the looped, single line method as described by Steve for many years. In fact this is the method outlined in my Hunter owners manual. I take the sheets off at the end of each season, and they are not too difficult to undo. I bag my hanked jib when not in use. My previuos boat had a roller furling genoa and the sheets got a bit stiff from exposure to the elements, but I still managed to undo them at the end of each season. I like this method to prevent a heavy, bulky knot, and it won't klobber you too bad if you get smacked by a flailing sail. Fair winds... Tom
Hi, I've been using the looped, single line method as described by Steve for many years. In fact this is the method outlined in my Hunter owners manual. I take the sheets off at the end of each season, and they are not too difficult to undo. I bag my hanked jib when not in use. My previuos boat had a roller furling genoa and the sheets got a bit stiff from exposure to the elements, but I still managed to undo them at the end of each season. I like this method to prevent a heavy, bulky knot, and it won't klobber you too bad if you get smacked by a flailing sail. Fair winds... Tom
3 for the Loop
I agree with Tom, and (as usual) Steve Dion. I first saw the loop used on a J-24 that I used to crew on. Even though the skipper was a Bowline Freak, he had a loop on each of his headsails. Never lost a sheet during a race, and easy to change sails since the sheet goes with the sail. In addition, I never had one freeze up on me, as it is a single turn of the sheet. I am not crazy about using shackles, and prefer to run the loop right through the clew, but I have seen many people using shackles and retaining their teeth. Best of luck, and find the solution that works best for you. Rob
I agree with Tom, and (as usual) Steve Dion. I first saw the loop used on a J-24 that I used to crew on. Even though the skipper was a Bowline Freak, he had a loop on each of his headsails. Never lost a sheet during a race, and easy to change sails since the sheet goes with the sail. In addition, I never had one freeze up on me, as it is a single turn of the sheet. I am not crazy about using shackles, and prefer to run the loop right through the clew, but I have seen many people using shackles and retaining their teeth. Best of luck, and find the solution that works best for you. Rob
Here Is Another Way
I used the loop on a single line until I got my jib bag now I have the aforementioned shackle with the loop through on the single line. The other method I have seen is to run each line in opposite directions through the grommet and put a stevedore knot on the end to keep it from coming back through.
I used the loop on a single line until I got my jib bag now I have the aforementioned shackle with the loop through on the single line. The other method I have seen is to run each line in opposite directions through the grommet and put a stevedore knot on the end to keep it from coming back through.
Avoid the buntline
Last year I used a buntline knot for my jib sheets. It was great - never came untied. Then I had to untie it to send the jib out for service. Took about 15 minutes of working each sheet loose. Not again. I like the loop on a single line (robins hitch?). Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
Last year I used a buntline knot for my jib sheets. It was great - never came untied. Then I had to untie it to send the jib out for service. Took about 15 minutes of working each sheet loose. Not again. I like the loop on a single line (robins hitch?). Les Murray s/v Ceilidh 86 C-36 #560
I'm with Ed and use Bowline
Bowlines are easy to untie after a long period of use . . . can't think of anything better.
Bowlines are easy to untie after a long period of use . . . can't think of anything better.
Shackle- No Way!!!
I can't imagine using a shackle and having it flailing around and banging on your deck and smacking into your rigging!! The best way is to use my Magic Splicing Tool which you can find a photograph of on this site and eye splice them. This tool is virtually free and is the best I have ever used (after making the mistake of spending money on tools). Dave
I can't imagine using a shackle and having it flailing around and banging on your deck and smacking into your rigging!! The best way is to use my Magic Splicing Tool which you can find a photograph of on this site and eye splice them. This tool is virtually free and is the best I have ever used (after making the mistake of spending money on tools). Dave
Some pros and cons
In my book, Jim Sullivan's simple splice may well be the cleanest way. Cow, camel or girth hitches (mistakingly called loops by some; the only "loops" in knot terminology are overhand and underhand loops) are not a bad idea but might slip under tension, especially with fatter rope. Buntline hitches are worth considering although they can indeed jam. However, the beauty of the (very secure) buntline hitch is that it can be "sent up", i.e. when you were only able to grab hold of the clew long enough to thread the bitter end through but are having trouble keeping the clew long enough under control to complete a bowline. The clove hitch will not work in situations where the clew cringle is not large enough to let the sheet pass through 3 times (unless the poster meant a clove hitch around the standing end; in which case we are talking about a buntline hitch). All in all, I personally throw my vote behind the good old bowline, but plan to try Jim Sullivan's method as soon as we have new jibsheets to install. Flying Dutchman
In my book, Jim Sullivan's simple splice may well be the cleanest way. Cow, camel or girth hitches (mistakingly called loops by some; the only "loops" in knot terminology are overhand and underhand loops) are not a bad idea but might slip under tension, especially with fatter rope. Buntline hitches are worth considering although they can indeed jam. However, the beauty of the (very secure) buntline hitch is that it can be "sent up", i.e. when you were only able to grab hold of the clew long enough to thread the bitter end through but are having trouble keeping the clew long enough under control to complete a bowline. The clove hitch will not work in situations where the clew cringle is not large enough to let the sheet pass through 3 times (unless the poster meant a clove hitch around the standing end; in which case we are talking about a buntline hitch). All in all, I personally throw my vote behind the good old bowline, but plan to try Jim Sullivan's method as soon as we have new jibsheets to install. Flying Dutchman
More on Shackles, Please
I am not a big fan of the shackle either and was wondering what others would suggest. I remove the sheets from the sail each time I put it in the bag and attach the sheet to the bag to hold the D Ring at the lower corner of the bag. The jib halyard holds the top end. I could throw the sheets into the bag and use another line to secure the bag but the jib is really very small and as yet I have not had a problem with the shackle flailing around. Guess I could ask the folks in the chandlery here how it was intended to be used but using the instructions provided is only a last resort and for those of a lessor mind and spirit.
I am not a big fan of the shackle either and was wondering what others would suggest. I remove the sheets from the sail each time I put it in the bag and attach the sheet to the bag to hold the D Ring at the lower corner of the bag. The jib halyard holds the top end. I could throw the sheets into the bag and use another line to secure the bag but the jib is really very small and as yet I have not had a problem with the shackle flailing around. Guess I could ask the folks in the chandlery here how it was intended to be used but using the instructions provided is only a last resort and for those of a lessor mind and spirit.
One hit with a shackle gets the message through
Sooner or later in a stiff wind the shackle with hit the head, shin or whatever . . . and that the message that is usually needed.
Sooner or later in a stiff wind the shackle with hit the head, shin or whatever . . . and that the message that is usually needed.
Bowline now but shackle works
Roller furler on the new boat so I use a bowline on each sheet. Used to use a snap shackle on the hanked on jibs of my 23. It works well when multi headsail changes are likely. Since you are aware of the flaying shackle danger, you tend to take precautionary steps (like keeping the sail under control). I think you're more likely to get hit in the head by the boom
then a jib sheet shackle.
Roller furler on the new boat so I use a bowline on each sheet. Used to use a snap shackle on the hanked on jibs of my 23. It works well when multi headsail changes are likely. Since you are aware of the flaying shackle danger, you tend to take precautionary steps (like keeping the sail under control). I think you're more likely to get hit in the head by the boom
then a jib sheet shackle.- Status