What is the best antifoul for a trailerable. I have a 94 23.5 cruise pac. I want to leave it in the harbor for the summer and through fall and then pull out for freezing months because of water ballast. I want a good antifoul that will hold up to possibly sitting in water for months on end yet hold up if i got to pull her out several times during hurricane season and cold weather. What is the best for blister protection and will survive being in and out of water. and should i try to do this myself, or get a boat yard to do it. I have some experience in car and boat painting but have never done bottom paint just topside.
Best antifoul for a trailerable?
- Thread starter southernsailer
- Start date
- Status
Anti-Fouling for Trailerable
There's basically two kinds of anti-fouling paint. Ablative and bio-cides. Each has its advantages. Ablative is great is you're not a speed freak (it's not the smoothest of paints). Basically, it (and sloughing paint) wear off as the boat moves through the water taking the growth with it. And there's the rub...pardon the pun. Sitting at the dock, ablative paint allows some growth. It takes motion through the water for ablative paint to do it's job. Normally, if you're going to take the boat in and out on a semi-frequent basis, or sail a lot, ablative paint works fine (that's what I use). Plus, ablative paint is pretty cheap by comparison and easy to apply.
Biocide, on the other hand has the advantage of being available in a smooth, high-gloss (looks better and adds a little to the speed). It works by basically poisoning whatever starts to grow on your boat. So, it works whether you're moving or not. However, it isn't something you slap on with a roller and, I think, is more expensive (obviously from a labor point of view).
So, if you let the boat sit for months at a time, the biocide is probably your better bet (if you want to spend the money). You can Google this question and find all sorts of info. But, I hope this helps.
There's basically two kinds of anti-fouling paint. Ablative and bio-cides. Each has its advantages. Ablative is great is you're not a speed freak (it's not the smoothest of paints). Basically, it (and sloughing paint) wear off as the boat moves through the water taking the growth with it. And there's the rub...pardon the pun. Sitting at the dock, ablative paint allows some growth. It takes motion through the water for ablative paint to do it's job. Normally, if you're going to take the boat in and out on a semi-frequent basis, or sail a lot, ablative paint works fine (that's what I use). Plus, ablative paint is pretty cheap by comparison and easy to apply.
Biocide, on the other hand has the advantage of being available in a smooth, high-gloss (looks better and adds a little to the speed). It works by basically poisoning whatever starts to grow on your boat. So, it works whether you're moving or not. However, it isn't something you slap on with a roller and, I think, is more expensive (obviously from a labor point of view).
So, if you let the boat sit for months at a time, the biocide is probably your better bet (if you want to spend the money). You can Google this question and find all sorts of info. But, I hope this helps.
We're applying Interlux, Interprotect 2000E with 5 base coats and then the Micron extra anti-fouling. We applied 2 of the Interprotect coats today. It's not too hard to work with but you must study the application methods and specs. It's a 2 part epoxy base primer and is thick but not difficult to roll on. Both of these 'paints' can be rolled on. It is critical to apply the anti-fouling when the last coat of Interprotect is 'thumb print tacky' for it to properly adhere. I can't stress this step enough. Several boats at our yard have done this system and had great results for many years. The Interlux technical people can be of much assistance, obviously for their products only though.
The most difficult part for us was prepping the bottom. As our boat was neglected for many years by the previous owner,. It took us a lot of time and labor to scrape and then sand to gelcote with 80 grit paper. Thankfully a group of our friends offered to help when mentioned 'free beer and fried chicken' to all. There were no gelcote blisters too which made things much easier. The painting will be 1/8th the time of the entire process.
Good luck and feel free to mail me thru the forum if you have any questions or want photos of our boat.
Joe
The most difficult part for us was prepping the bottom. As our boat was neglected for many years by the previous owner,. It took us a lot of time and labor to scrape and then sand to gelcote with 80 grit paper. Thankfully a group of our friends offered to help when mentioned 'free beer and fried chicken' to all. There were no gelcote blisters too which made things much easier. The painting will be 1/8th the time of the entire process.
Good luck and feel free to mail me thru the forum if you have any questions or want photos of our boat.
Joe
southern sailor;
Ok, I know the boat too well and in fact introduced this boat back in August of 1991 due to my involvement. There are many paints but you described what many particualary up north worry about.
Most anti fouling paints will dry out if out of the water for more than 60 days. You want to take the boat out for the winter and would like for the paint to be good for the following season if I read you correctly. I always recommended two paints which are softer that will address this. West Marine CCP or Interlux equivalent to that which I forgot the name of. Sorry about that.
crazy dave condon
Ok, I know the boat too well and in fact introduced this boat back in August of 1991 due to my involvement. There are many paints but you described what many particualary up north worry about.
Most anti fouling paints will dry out if out of the water for more than 60 days. You want to take the boat out for the winter and would like for the paint to be good for the following season if I read you correctly. I always recommended two paints which are softer that will address this. West Marine CCP or Interlux equivalent to that which I forgot the name of. Sorry about that.
crazy dave condon
I recommend Interlux Micron Extra (see link below). It's an ablative bottom paint that isn't affected by trailering or haulout for extended periods. As Crazy Dave mentioned, some ablative bottom paints deactivate in time if removed from the water. This one doesn't. It also helps keep slime off. Concerning haulout during the winter months..... NO NEED in Biloxi, MS. If you are in Biloxi, MS, especially if your ballast water is brackish or salt water, it's not gonna freeze. Others chime in if I'm off base with this one. I'm in nearby Pensacola and this is not a factor. Other above waterline fresh water CAN freeze, however, and precautions need to be made for freeze protection. Some of the best sailing in Biloxi is in January! BrianW
http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Micron__Extra_VOC+eng-usa+A4+Y+20100618.pdf
http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Micron__Extra_VOC+eng-usa+A4+Y+20100618.pdf
Brian W.
Thank you for the advice. Alot as you mentioned depends on the usage of the boat and the area which the boat will be sailed in. Keep in touch sir. I am volunteering to repair boy scout sailboat fleets anywhere and last week was offered a job to manage the boats to include power at an aquatics base and another camp nearby with about 30 boats. Will know more today. take care
crazy dave condon
Thank you for the advice. Alot as you mentioned depends on the usage of the boat and the area which the boat will be sailed in. Keep in touch sir. I am volunteering to repair boy scout sailboat fleets anywhere and last week was offered a job to manage the boats to include power at an aquatics base and another camp nearby with about 30 boats. Will know more today. take care
crazy dave condon
Thanks for all the information. It will definitely help me in deciding what to use.- Status