Does anyone have any experience with rigging a system on a Beneteau with dual masthead backstays (like my B361) that controls forestay tension? Seems like there would be a way to pull the backstays together, therefore increasing tension on the forestay (for improved upwind performance). I know I could just tighten the turnbuckles on the backstays, but this would leave tension on the boat all the time...even at the dock. I'd like a way of increasing the tension only when needed and then releasing when not needed.
Beneteau adjustable backstay?
- Thread starter agaliha
- Start date
- Status
Furling mast?
If you have a furling mast it's recommended. Furling masts need to be set up to allow for proper furling and then left that way. They're not designed to be flexed aft as you suggest. If you're having upwind performance issues have you read Neil Pryde's tuning guide? I have a 361, read the tuning guide and am much happier with the performance. With the furling main it's all about geting the genny set right. Good luck Mike
If you have a furling mast it's recommended. Furling masts need to be set up to allow for proper furling and then left that way. They're not designed to be flexed aft as you suggest. If you're having upwind performance issues have you read Neil Pryde's tuning guide? I have a 361, read the tuning guide and am much happier with the performance. With the furling main it's all about geting the genny set right. Good luck Mike
Classic mast
No, I have the classic mast. Since the boat has a masthead rig (not fractional), tightening the backstay shouldn't bend the mast much. It should mostly increase the headstay tension. Thanks for the tip about the tuning guide. I was unaware of it.
No, I have the classic mast. Since the boat has a masthead rig (not fractional), tightening the backstay shouldn't bend the mast much. It should mostly increase the headstay tension. Thanks for the tip about the tuning guide. I was unaware of it.
tuning guide?
I looked on the Neil Pryde website and couldn't find a tuning guide on the B361. There was a "generic" tuning guide for Oceanis series boats, but it was pretty basic sailing instruction. Can you guide me to it? Thanks so much.
I looked on the Neil Pryde website and couldn't find a tuning guide on the B361. There was a "generic" tuning guide for Oceanis series boats, but it was pretty basic sailing instruction. Can you guide me to it? Thanks so much.
this is where I got them
I got the headsail and main instructions from here: http://sailingsource.com/neilpryde/boatclass/b_tune.htm Mike, how did you mark your track ? I used a marker and its now gone and I'm using "the dirt mark where the car was"
) I have one problem going upwind though, my head sail seem to flutter a lot at the leech. I tried tightening the string at the end but so far have not been able to reduce it much. it was my impression this didnt have to be that tight but perhaps I need to pull more ? Its alos mostly on the port side oddly enough, I thought it had to do with the seam on the sail or something...
I got the headsail and main instructions from here: http://sailingsource.com/neilpryde/boatclass/b_tune.htm Mike, how did you mark your track ? I used a marker and its now gone and I'm using "the dirt mark where the car was"
) I have one problem going upwind though, my head sail seem to flutter a lot at the leech. I tried tightening the string at the end but so far have not been able to reduce it much. it was my impression this didnt have to be that tight but perhaps I need to pull more ? Its alos mostly on the port side oddly enough, I thought it had to do with the seam on the sail or something...
Marked the track
Gaute I too marked the track with a marker but I made the marks in the holes rather that the track itself. I figured there was nothing to wipe the ink off if it was in the hole. As far as the leech flutter is concerned you may just have to tighten the leech line a bit more. Just be careful not to over tighten it as it can cause a cup to form in the leech which will cause the sail to lose some efficiency/power. Why it only happens to you on the port side is a question with a number of answers. You may have some slight difference in how the sail is trimmed. You could also have some difference in how the mast is tuned. Shrouds on one side could be tensioned differently than the other allowing the mast to bend a bit more on one tack versus the other. And of course sometimes it's just the direction of the wind and your angle to it. Remember air has a directional flow to it and if you have a high pressure system over you you'll get clockwise direction winds, counterclockwise in a low. Depending on which you have the air will flow differently over the sails, creating the need to trim on one tack differently from the other. Every boat I've ever sailed reacted slightly different from one tack to another. It's also the reason you can sometimes point higher on one tack versus the other. Bottom line is to just make the necessary adjustments, check your boat speed for confirmation that it helped and remember what you did so you can redo it after the next set of tacks. Mike
Gaute I too marked the track with a marker but I made the marks in the holes rather that the track itself. I figured there was nothing to wipe the ink off if it was in the hole. As far as the leech flutter is concerned you may just have to tighten the leech line a bit more. Just be careful not to over tighten it as it can cause a cup to form in the leech which will cause the sail to lose some efficiency/power. Why it only happens to you on the port side is a question with a number of answers. You may have some slight difference in how the sail is trimmed. You could also have some difference in how the mast is tuned. Shrouds on one side could be tensioned differently than the other allowing the mast to bend a bit more on one tack versus the other. And of course sometimes it's just the direction of the wind and your angle to it. Remember air has a directional flow to it and if you have a high pressure system over you you'll get clockwise direction winds, counterclockwise in a low. Depending on which you have the air will flow differently over the sails, creating the need to trim on one tack differently from the other. Every boat I've ever sailed reacted slightly different from one tack to another. It's also the reason you can sometimes point higher on one tack versus the other. Bottom line is to just make the necessary adjustments, check your boat speed for confirmation that it helped and remember what you did so you can redo it after the next set of tacks. Mike
I took a while to figure out but,
I used a Ronstan wire block on each of the two back stays - joined them with snap shackled - schaefer 4 to 1 tackle and 5/16 sta set (same as you would use for a boom vang of preventer) - the only addition is 5 or 6 feet of sta set joining one of the wire blocks to the base of a backstay to prevent the whole mess from "riding up" when applying tension on the sytem. Change the length of the 5 or 6 foot restricting line from time to time (at least annually) so that the wire blocks don't create wear marks on the backstay - I used 5 or 6 feet so that the system was high enough that it didn't interfere with the head room for the helmsman to much I did try and use a modified "catalina" sytem that slides on the backstays - but the vertical travel required was about ten feet and just didn't work One of the Beneteau 373 pictures in the owners section - shows a similiar set up - except that he restricted the vertical movement by lashing to the backstay itself rather than running a line to the base of the backstay Oh and for others that are watching - I have a furling main that has never caused any problems - I use a very loose headstay - I have a half of a mast section prebend (4"-5") that goes to a full section (8"-9") with the backstay adjuster fully on - and my baby stay is safely stored in the locker for the last three years with the added benfeit that I can store my dinghy on deck
I used a Ronstan wire block on each of the two back stays - joined them with snap shackled - schaefer 4 to 1 tackle and 5/16 sta set (same as you would use for a boom vang of preventer) - the only addition is 5 or 6 feet of sta set joining one of the wire blocks to the base of a backstay to prevent the whole mess from "riding up" when applying tension on the sytem. Change the length of the 5 or 6 foot restricting line from time to time (at least annually) so that the wire blocks don't create wear marks on the backstay - I used 5 or 6 feet so that the system was high enough that it didn't interfere with the head room for the helmsman to much I did try and use a modified "catalina" sytem that slides on the backstays - but the vertical travel required was about ten feet and just didn't work One of the Beneteau 373 pictures in the owners section - shows a similiar set up - except that he restricted the vertical movement by lashing to the backstay itself rather than running a line to the base of the backstay Oh and for others that are watching - I have a furling main that has never caused any problems - I use a very loose headstay - I have a half of a mast section prebend (4"-5") that goes to a full section (8"-9") with the backstay adjuster fully on - and my baby stay is safely stored in the locker for the last three years with the added benfeit that I can store my dinghy on deck
- Status