Beneteau 361 Toe rail leaks

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Sep 19, 2011
53
Beneteau Oceanis 423 Rhode Island
Hi,
I am considering buying a 2001 361. The boat is in good shape with the exception of some discolouration of the teak and cabinets on both the port and starboard sides in the area of the settee. The broker said that there was some toe rail fasteners that needed re-bedding and this was done.

It seems like Beneteau boats may have toe rail leaks and I am thinking that the toe rails would really need to be removed and re-bedded.

Does anyone have any experience with these types of leaks? Also is it typical to replace the yellowed teak that has been damaged?
Thanks
 
Jun 7, 2011
83
Beneteau Oceanis 361 Marmong Cove, Australia
Hi

Are you able to post picture of teak damage, you may be able to fix depending on the damage.

As for the toe rail, I have not had a leak and are amazed as to how dry my 361 is and I regularly wash her down weekly with pressurized water.
 
Feb 26, 2007
102
Beneteau 361 Quebec
I have a 2000 361 and never had any leaks except once from the rudder bolt in the cockpit which was an easy fix. I never have water in the bilge. Can you share picture, we might be able to help.
Georges
 
Apr 27, 2010
968
Beneteau 352 Hull #276 Ontario
Just hazarding a guess here from looking at the pictures. The stains are both located in the same location as the mast stays penetration. I might say the leaks are there and not at the toe rail joints. It's hard to diagnose from just pictures.

Good Luck

Just another thought, it could be through the stanchion connection which I believe is also in the same location on both sides.
 

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Apr 30, 2010
54
beneteau 331 victoria
+1 with Joker's post,

it took me 3 tries to get my struts to stop leaking. The water staining on your hull is likely rain water that came in around the strut and travels when the boat heals over. I would order new panels becasue there is no way to fix the teak vener.

To stop the leak, take it apart buy moving your shrouds to the toerail, then unscrew the strut from inside counting the number of turns, then push it out the top then unbolt the cap from below. Use butyl rubber (from Maine Sail on this forum), and make yourself an aluminum cap to cover the top of the rod. After you cleaned up the silicone, make a butyl ball in your hand, make a large doughnut out of it, place the dounghnut on the deck side of the cap. Place the cap into postion, bolt down from the inside. Now insert the rod from above through the large hole in the cap/butyl/deck, and down to the threaded turnbuckle. the same number of turns you counded to remove it, then reinstall cotter pins, and now shrouds. Now install the new cap above the rod with a small bit of sikaflex. Do not use silicone, it will leak and is a bugger to clean up.

Good luck!
 
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