: Beneteau 35S5 – Replacement Jib Sheets & Main Halyard

Jun 5, 2018
53
Beneteau 35S5 Buffalo, NY
I'm getting ready to replace the running rigging on my 1989 Beneteau 35S5, and would appreciate hearing from anyone who has already done this.


I'm planning to replace:


  • Jib sheets
  • Main halyard

From measuring my existing lines, it appears I have:


  • Jib sheets: 5/8" diameter, my current sheets are 37' however I think they may have come off a Pearson Flyer so what is the recommend length
  • Main halyard: Approximately 1/2" diameter (I'll be measuring the exact length before ordering.)

I'd appreciate any feedback on:


  • What diameter and length did you end up using?
  • Did you stay with the original sizes or change them?
  • What brand of line did you choose (Samson, Marlow, New England Ropes, etc.)?
  • If you race, did you switch to a Dyneema-core halyard?
  • If you use a whisker pole to wing out your genoa, how did you rig the pole attachment on the jib sheets?

If you have any recommendations or lessons learned, I'd really appreciate hearing them before I place my order.


Thanks in advance!
 
Jan 11, 2014
14,002
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
In general jib sheets are sized to 1.5x the boat length. ½" line works for my 36' Sabre. It is large enough to have a good hand and small enough to run through blocks easily. High tech low stretch lines are not necessary for jib sheets as the actual loaded length is pretty short when going to weather which is the condition with the highest load on the sheets. How the sheet feels in the hand and works on the winch are more important. Order the jib sheets as one length and then connect them to jib with a cow hitch (aka luggage tag hitch). This makes a small light attachment, helping to prevent the clew from hanging up on the shrouds and reducing weight at the clew.
 
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Likes: KGarvey
Feb 26, 2004
23,336
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
If you do so, tie it on the proper side to avoid the hitch from hanging up - you'll see when you tie it before tightening it. Also be aware that to end-for-end your sheet, you'll have to cut the knot and then use bowlines or other knots to re-tie it.

Our 34 footer uses 7/16" for jib and genoa sheets.

connect them to jib with a cow hitch (aka luggage tag hitch). This makes a small light attachment, helping to prevent the clew from hanging up on the shrouds and reducing weight at the clew.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,984
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
There is an inside and outside Bowline. I have problems reversing things but the Bowline holding the sheet to the clew should be tied so the tail faces outside the shrouds.
I've used both Bowline and Cow Hitch for jib sheets and find each serviceable. The Cow Hitch is lighter and cleaner. But it is also much more difficult to untie.
 

Joe

.
Jun 1, 2004
8,312
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
The primary consideration with your headsail sheets, IMHO, should be how it feels in your hand and how it fits in your winch. You can look at strength charts to determine if stepping down in size is advisable. With your halyards, the most important thing is how the line runs through the blocks. Unlike sheets, which normally run through just one lead block at an obtuse angle, your halyards will be making a 180 deg turns up top, and probably 90deg down below if they runs aft, not to mention any deck organizers and clutches that can add friction to the operation. The winch fitting is important also, but less critical, while the hand I think is not that important, With that said I am a strong proponent of dyneema cored halyards. They allow you drop the line diameter, allowing smoother operation by vastly reducing friction. On my boat I built my own halyards by purchasing a single braid dyneema for the core and sheathed it in a dacron/polyester cover. The conver can be purchase separately, but it's more inexpensive to buy a lower quality double braid and use its core to fish the new dyneema core into position. I also only cover the back half of the core, since it's the only part that is handled, wrapped on the drum and cleated. I prefer Samson rope, but most any of the popular brands do the job. I use Samson Trophybraid for my sheets. I has a fuzzy spun polyester cover that feels good in the hand and hold well on the winch and cleat.
running rigging size chart
As far as size goes, I can't imagine putting anything larger than 7/16 on a 35 foot boat. Google "running rigging size chart" for more detail. On my 27 the owner manual pretty much recommended 3/8" for everything. After converting to the dyneema cored halyards, and researching the actual loads on other applications, the only 3/8 I have now is the jib sheets, because it feels better. Everything else was downsized to 5/16... even less for cunningham, outhaul, etc.

Finally, I am not a proponent of the "cow hitch" attachment for your headsail sheets. If you think it will make your tacks smoother, well, not really, only proper tacking procedure will solve that problem. Two separate sheets with bowline knots.... call me old fashioned. If you cow hitch your sheets, it is highly likely that you NEVER remove them. Which means they are in the elements 24/7 which means it won't be long before they start looking faded and become puffy and swollen like your existing sheets (which is why they are measuring 5/8" Okay, good luck. Be smart.... remember .... two sheets, bowline knot;).
 
Jan 11, 2014
14,002
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Cow hitches can be released with a marlin spike or a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

The big sailing advantage to a cow hitch is in light air, there is considerably less weight on the clew which allows the sail to take a better and more efficient shape.