Peggy, without repeating the posting chain. On the Beneteau site, another owner of a 331 with a Jabsco manual head and I have been experiencing the same problem. I have copied the posting below. Your thoughts are appreciated. Original post by Sketon: Two weekends ago I experienced a problem with the toilet (what a great subject to be writing about) on my 2004 B331. The dry discharge worked fine but when swithched to the wet discharge&fill position it emptied but did not refill. After pumping air for awhile I finally got it primed and working. I assumed I had lost prime while sailing. Again this weekend it occured while still in the slip. I had noticed that the the bowl was filled higher then normal when I opened the boat for the weekend. Anyway, before I go this weekend and start taking things apart, does anyone have suggestions? My reply (smcmanus): have a 2003 331 and, the first year, I had no problems at all. This year, though, I have been experiencing precisely the same issues as you mention: (1) loss of prime for the pump pulling water into the system, and (2) water filling the bowl over time. My suspicions are that the cuprits are: (1) the seal in the manual pump is no longer "tight" and is allowing air to seep past the seal, which causes the pump to lose its prime, and (2) that the joker valve is allowing water to seep back into the bowl from the discharge hose. I was thinking of just replacing the entire unit. I think a Jabsco is around $250. Peggy Hall would be the expert to ask about this, but, if anyone has any thoughts, I would like to hear them. Thanks
Beneteau 331 / Jabsco manual head
- Thread starter smcmanus
- Start date
- Status
new head
Had the same problem. The dealer changed the pump assembly twice. The second replacement created a new problem: seepage at the base of the pump column. I ordered a new unit from West Marine. Life is good!
Had the same problem. The dealer changed the pump assembly twice. The second replacement created a new problem: seepage at the base of the pump column. I ordered a new unit from West Marine. Life is good!
I think we're talking about two problems
1. A pump that's having a hard time priming, and 2. water rising in the bowl when the boat sits. Both problems could be due to a failed wet/dry valve that isn't moving from the dry position, or a flapper valve that isn't seated properly (prob'ly is defective)--in which case, if the toilet is less than a year old, replacing it under warranty is the only way to go...but the second problem is far more serious because it could sink the boat, and can happen no matter what make/model the toilet is. If water can rise in the bowl on its own, it can only mean that you're leaving the intake thru-hull open when you leave the boat. That's the #1 cause of boats sinking in their slips. Relying on the wet/dry valve--and on people to remember to leave it in the dry position--is a game of Russian Roulette. The only reasons your boats haven't sunk in their slips is because a) the seepage past the wet/dry valve may be too slow to overflow the bowl in the time you were away from the boat...or b) the top of bowl may be above the waterline and water will only rise passively TO the waterline....but that would not save you if a siphon were to get started or sea conditions pushed water up the intake (which is what happened to a friend's boat a few years ago). So replace the toilet (if with another Jabsco, with no guarantee that it won't also develop problems within a year)...and close ALL your seacocks when you leave the boat.
1. A pump that's having a hard time priming, and 2. water rising in the bowl when the boat sits. Both problems could be due to a failed wet/dry valve that isn't moving from the dry position, or a flapper valve that isn't seated properly (prob'ly is defective)--in which case, if the toilet is less than a year old, replacing it under warranty is the only way to go...but the second problem is far more serious because it could sink the boat, and can happen no matter what make/model the toilet is. If water can rise in the bowl on its own, it can only mean that you're leaving the intake thru-hull open when you leave the boat. That's the #1 cause of boats sinking in their slips. Relying on the wet/dry valve--and on people to remember to leave it in the dry position--is a game of Russian Roulette. The only reasons your boats haven't sunk in their slips is because a) the seepage past the wet/dry valve may be too slow to overflow the bowl in the time you were away from the boat...or b) the top of bowl may be above the waterline and water will only rise passively TO the waterline....but that would not save you if a siphon were to get started or sea conditions pushed water up the intake (which is what happened to a friend's boat a few years ago). So replace the toilet (if with another Jabsco, with no guarantee that it won't also develop problems within a year)...and close ALL your seacocks when you leave the boat.
Peggy -what would you suggest for a replacement
Peggy - do you suggest replacing with a Jabsco or with some other manufacturer's toilet?
Peggy - do you suggest replacing with a Jabsco or with some other manufacturer's toilet?
Check those seacocks
Fortunately, I have been keeping up with the forums on a daily basis. Last week I closed on a Catalina 30. During the survey, numerous people were on the boat opening and closing seacocks, sinks, etc. Yesterday I read this thread and began to get an uneasy feeling; I am leaving town for a week on Friday and decided I should go check the boat prior to leaving. I also received a call from a friend, who had also read this thread. He called me and said he also felt uneasy, urging me to check the boat. After work, we both rode up to the boat. We discovered that the seacock to the toilet had been left in the open position. Furthermore, the valve in the toilet was allowing water to seep in, even though the handle was in the dry position. This water was seeping into the bilge. A subsequent check of the bilge revealed a previously dry bilge, full of water, probably 40 gallons or more. Had we not checked on this for another week, there is a good chance the boat would have gone down at the dock. Double check those seacocks. Thanks Peggy for some timely advice!!!!!!! Chip
Fortunately, I have been keeping up with the forums on a daily basis. Last week I closed on a Catalina 30. During the survey, numerous people were on the boat opening and closing seacocks, sinks, etc. Yesterday I read this thread and began to get an uneasy feeling; I am leaving town for a week on Friday and decided I should go check the boat prior to leaving. I also received a call from a friend, who had also read this thread. He called me and said he also felt uneasy, urging me to check the boat. After work, we both rode up to the boat. We discovered that the seacock to the toilet had been left in the open position. Furthermore, the valve in the toilet was allowing water to seep in, even though the handle was in the dry position. This water was seeping into the bilge. A subsequent check of the bilge revealed a previously dry bilge, full of water, probably 40 gallons or more. Had we not checked on this for another week, there is a good chance the boat would have gone down at the dock. Double check those seacocks. Thanks Peggy for some timely advice!!!!!!! Chip
More advice and toilet recommendation
Not only is it important to close all seacocks when leaving the boat, but also to check all hose connections regularly for loose or corroded hose clamps (all below-waterline connections should be double clamped, btw), leaking seacocks and anything else that can allow the boat to take on water when you're not there. Any thru-hull to dump the tank should be kept closed at ALL times except when actually dumping the tank...to prevent water from being forced up the the thru-hull (the macerator will only slow it down, it won't stop it) while underway. If the toilet is below the waterline, a vented loop that's at least 8-12" above waterline at any angle of heel should be installed in the head intake to prevent water from overflowing the bowl if the wet/dry valve fails or is left in the wet position while you're aboard...I've been aboard boats when that's happened. The loop must go between the pump and the bowl, not between the thru-hull and the pump. As for a new toilet, the Raritan PH II--or PHC, which is the same pump on a compact base to fit in a tighter space--for $200-$250 has been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. Exceptionally durable, it will last 20 years if only kept lubricated and rebuilt about every 5-6 years..and has a pump action that will allow it to "swallow" flushes that would choke most toilets.
Not only is it important to close all seacocks when leaving the boat, but also to check all hose connections regularly for loose or corroded hose clamps (all below-waterline connections should be double clamped, btw), leaking seacocks and anything else that can allow the boat to take on water when you're not there. Any thru-hull to dump the tank should be kept closed at ALL times except when actually dumping the tank...to prevent water from being forced up the the thru-hull (the macerator will only slow it down, it won't stop it) while underway. If the toilet is below the waterline, a vented loop that's at least 8-12" above waterline at any angle of heel should be installed in the head intake to prevent water from overflowing the bowl if the wet/dry valve fails or is left in the wet position while you're aboard...I've been aboard boats when that's happened. The loop must go between the pump and the bowl, not between the thru-hull and the pump. As for a new toilet, the Raritan PH II--or PHC, which is the same pump on a compact base to fit in a tighter space--for $200-$250 has been rated the best manual toilet under $500 for several decades. Exceptionally durable, it will last 20 years if only kept lubricated and rebuilt about every 5-6 years..and has a pump action that will allow it to "swallow" flushes that would choke most toilets.
- Status