I was viewing a photo archieve of a trip from Bayfield WI. to Black River MI. Posted by Bill Ernst about A Hunter 26. He posted a picture that appeared to have the boom vang connected to the lifeline stanchion located about even with the mast. I have been considering ways to prevent an accidental gybe and was wondering if this might work. Are the stanchions sturdy enough for this application? Does anyone have a better suggestion? Tim
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Traditional Preventer...
...is the best answer. Stanchions are not designed for that level of potential force. Imagine a steel rod ripping across the cockpit in a nasty jibe? Half of someone's face could go over the side. Ick.
...is the best answer. Stanchions are not designed for that level of potential force. Imagine a steel rod ripping across the cockpit in a nasty jibe? Half of someone's face could go over the side. Ick.
My preventer
I have a 23.5, and I modelled my preventer after what a regular here, George, has posted on his website for his 260 (see link below). One end has a shackle to attach to the mainsheet bale. He put a block on one of the shroud U-bolts (chainplates) and ran a line back to a stanchion to tie off. I didn't like the stanchion idea so I ran mine back to the cleat near the stern. To be fair, at least if his stanchion gave out it would fly up to the chainplate, not across the cockpit. ;-) I don't know if George set up both sides or just the starboard. I did both sides. I have snap shackles on the lines to attach to the mainsheet bail. The other ends of the lines are tied to the aft cleats and I don't undo them. There is enough slack such that the boom can by gybed (or tacked) without undoing either preventer. When not using the preventers, I tidy up the slack by running the shackle back towards the stern, attaching to a lifeline or stern rail sest. To set the preventer, I take up the slack and tie the line (in the middle) to the same stern cleat where its end is fixed. Have a look at George's pictures. Mine is the same except for being tied off at the stern cleat. ...RickM...
I have a 23.5, and I modelled my preventer after what a regular here, George, has posted on his website for his 260 (see link below). One end has a shackle to attach to the mainsheet bale. He put a block on one of the shroud U-bolts (chainplates) and ran a line back to a stanchion to tie off. I didn't like the stanchion idea so I ran mine back to the cleat near the stern. To be fair, at least if his stanchion gave out it would fly up to the chainplate, not across the cockpit. ;-) I don't know if George set up both sides or just the starboard. I did both sides. I have snap shackles on the lines to attach to the mainsheet bail. The other ends of the lines are tied to the aft cleats and I don't undo them. There is enough slack such that the boom can by gybed (or tacked) without undoing either preventer. When not using the preventers, I tidy up the slack by running the shackle back towards the stern, attaching to a lifeline or stern rail sest. To set the preventer, I take up the slack and tie the line (in the middle) to the same stern cleat where its end is fixed. Have a look at George's pictures. Mine is the same except for being tied off at the stern cleat. ...RickM...
Good Idea...
...on the stern cleat. I see in George's picture he's got a cleat attached to a stanchion - the purests would protest. I have a 240 and, oddly, there is a cleat on the deck on my boat just below where George's stanchion cleat is located. Don't know about the 260's but the 240 has access panels in the liner that will allow you to add backing to really nail this down.
...on the stern cleat. I see in George's picture he's got a cleat attached to a stanchion - the purests would protest. I have a 240 and, oddly, there is a cleat on the deck on my boat just below where George's stanchion cleat is located. Don't know about the 260's but the 240 has access panels in the liner that will allow you to add backing to really nail this down.
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