Battery / Starter

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Daniel Jonas

Our Hunter 290 has a second battery bank that consists of two Group 27 AGM batteries. WHen the boat was commissioned they put the extra batteries under the starboard settee. Created a pretty good list. so we are moving them to the port side settee. In doing so, we are going to also install a Link 20, and seperate 1/2/Both switch to allow us to seperately select each battery in the second bank. Ordinarily this would be on both putting those batteries in parellel. The common post on the switch would then run to the 2nd battery post on the primary switch allowing it to combine with the starter battery. My plan is to run the negative cable from ships ground to the Link 20 thing (forget what it is called). Then off that to each battery bank ground but putting the house bank through a 200 amp (or so) fuse. My question is....if both switches are on both..the most common position ( and the one that allows the alternator to recharge everything) when the starter is engaged will the starter draw cause the fuse on the house bank to blow? I prefer having the fuse because the run from the starboard side to the port side is going to produce cables of about 6-8 feet long and I want to make sure that the system is as protected as possible. Most diagrams I've seen put the fuse in the negative cable. I know that I could get a different primary battery switch (Blue Seas) that seperates the engine start from the house side, but this boat is in a charter fleet and they prefer to keep it as near Hunter simple as possible. So I'm looking for the safest compromise. Beyond that, this forum has been extremely helpful to us as we have waited for delivery, shopped for options, and outfitted this new boat. We appreciate that it exists and that you all participate to make it work. We look forward to meeting some of you local bay area owners in the near future. Thanks, Adrianne and Dan (S/V Feije)
 
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Miles

Well...

The Yanmar book says those starters can draw 400 or so amps. If you only fused the house bank and not the starting battery you might be ok but I wouldn't bet on it. I guess if you switched out the house bank before hitting the starter it wouldn't blow the fuse but that would be tough to remember especially for someone not familiar with the boat. Also you might want to consider a battery combiner to isolate the starting battery. It sounds like you'd keep all three batteries paralled together for charging but this would also allow the starting battery to discharge along with the house bank. A combiner would only parallel them when charging and the disconnect them automatically when discharging. One less thing to remember to do...
 
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Eric Lorgus

If you want simple, why not an isolator?

Dan, You lost me with all the details, but I agree with Miles about using a combiner (aka isolater). I didn't understand where or why you're trying to fuse your battery cable. As for moving the batteries, don't forget that you made need to go up in gauge size (numerically it's down) if you are increasing the length of your battery cables. If you do this, buy tinned battery cable, which will help ward off corrosion. As for battery isolaters (also known as automatic battery switches), try the link below. Eric Lorgus
 
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Mickey McHugh

Battery Info

I have never seen a fuse installed between batteries and the starter/alternator connection. Fuses are never installed on the negative side. A combiner is a solenoid (electric switch) with no voltage drop and an isolator used diodes which causes a .7 VDC drop. I have previously posted an electrical schematic that might be helpful. Follow the installation instructions on the Link 20 Monitor and you should be fine. If you do want to add load protection you might want to use a breaker instead of a fuse. Hunter used breakers and no fuses for all load connections on my 40.5. The only fuse was on the charger outlets and the solar panel connection. It is easy to reset a breaker but finding the right fuse in a jam might be difficult. Good luck with your new boat.
 
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