Battery Setup

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jan 8, 2011
2
Hughes 38 Halifax
I have a Hughes 38. I have 4 house batteries and a start battery. They are all connected together and all connected to a 100W solar pannel through one solar controler.

Should I have the start battery connected to the eng. only or is it ok to have it connected with the deep cycle house batteries? and also should I have it connected to the solar pannel with it's own controler?

I just bought this boat last spring and I am a new sailboat owner.
Any advice on this matter is greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Brian
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,696
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
It really isn't a "start" battery which should properly be isolated from the house bank so as to preclude discharging it along with the rest of them. Rather, it should be connected to the engine (starter) only. Many folks have a cross-over switch to allow reversing the power source to the engine should it ever be necessary.

If you want to get a bit fancier, you can check out the ACR relay or a battery combiner, either of which will allow common charging without overcharging the start battery and have the added benefit of making the solar panel and controller a bit easier to add into the mix.
 
Sep 25, 2008
544
Bristol 43.3 Perth Amboy
Lots of options

I recommend you look at books by Nigel Calder and Casey on boat electronics. The simplest way to arrange your batteries is to have a house bank and a separate starter battery. They could be wired with a traditional 1, 2, both, off type switch (Is that what you have now?). Start the engine on starter battery, then switch to both and charge both battery banks simultaneously on just charge one bank then switch to the other through both. Having an amp meter would be a simple way of knowing when the batteries are not taking a big amp charge and you can switch to the other bank. There are advantages and disadvantages to this. Cheapest, but least sophisticated. Don't mix different types of batteries. I assume you have one alternator on your engine and the output wire is wired to the both terminal on the switch. The solar panels also could be wired to the both terminal but might just be wired to the house battery. Make sure you read about the importance of proper fuses to prevent fires.

A more sophisticated system would be to put a charge combiner between the two banks and the alternator output to one of the banks. A charge combiner serves to isolate the banks from each other when a load is sensed, and parallels them when charging. This replaces the standard 1, 2, both and off switch. Each battery would have its own switch. The combiner has an emergency parallel in case the automatic function fails.

A great alternative is to have 2 alternators, one for each bank. I'd only do this if you are planning some serious cruising and have significant energy demands.

I have had boats with all three of the above described systems. Option 1 requires the operator to think about when to switch from bank to bank, but is no big deal. Option 2 and 3 work independent of operator input.

Other issues to consider are choice of battery type, charge controllers, shore chargers, and your solar charger configuration.

Mainsail is a real expert, and hopefully will join this thread.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Most boats that I have worked on are wired like mine. The alternator output goes to the starter post. The same post that supplies 12v to the electrical panel(#12 wire) and connects to the battery switch(#2 or #4 red cable).

Then the starter battery shares grounds with all the other batteries. The starter positive goes only to the #1 position on the battery switch. This isolates it from everything except the starter UNLESS you forget to switch to #2. If left on #1 it goes to the panel and is being used for ALL your 12v requirements.

Consequently I always leave mine on #2, even for starting. I have a battery combiner so as soon as the house bank reaches the float level it opens to charge the starter battery. There is the case where if the engine does not start immediately I will switch to #1, the start battery. Never happens with my new 3YM30 though.

Really pretty much what the guys have already pointed out. There are much more complicated ways to remove the concern about forgetting and leaving it on #1 but I am cheap and simple.
 

ebsail

.
Nov 28, 2010
241
O day 25 Nyack. New York
If you want to keep it real simple, wire the starter battery to #1 and after you start on #1 just leave it on #1 for 3 minutes (you actually use a lot of amps but for a very short period which amounts to very little electricity to start the engine) and then switch it to #2 to which are connected all other batteries in paralell. Or

Or you might use use #2 (house bank) to start and then leave the switch on #2 all the time and only occasionally start on #1 just to make sure its still working and charged
 
Jan 8, 2011
2
Hughes 38 Halifax
Thank you for the info everyone I have a better understanding now that I had this morning. I am really happy to have found this site.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
You DO NOT need to switch back and forth to start a small diesel all this does is introduce potential for fried alternator diodes and HEF (human error factor). All you need to do is select the house bank and go sailing. Your house bank has LOTS more available cranking amps than a single starting battery will.

If you ever get to a point where your house bank can't start your motor you have drawn the bank to deeply and should invest in a battery monitor so that does not hapen again as deep discharges lead to short battery life..

As mentioned a Blue Seas ACR (automatic combining relay) or a Xantrex Echo Charger between the banks will keep the start battery well topped off and remove any need for needless switching back and forth. This is of course if you do have a 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch.

More info about how your system is wired would really help us help you better.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.