Sometimes when I start my Yanmar diesel the starter motor will bog down and stop. If I wait a few seconds and try again the starter will crank at a good speed. Occasionally I'll push the start button and the motor will not crank at all. Try again and it cranks fine. The starting battery is a little old but I keep it on a 3 stage charger and the voltage is a little over 12V. Does this sound like a starter motor problem or a battery problem?
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Daniel Jonas
More info
A litttle over 12 volts might not be good...a little under 13 would be better. What is a little? If it isn't the battery, start by checking all the connections in the system. Should be clean and tight. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
A litttle over 12 volts might not be good...a little under 13 would be better. What is a little? If it isn't the battery, start by checking all the connections in the system. Should be clean and tight. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
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Pete
ALL OF THE ABOVE
Ray, could be all of the above! Plus it could be the starter button and or wire connections. this is a common problem with the yanmar. You will need to check everthing and eliminate each. check in the archives for lots of info, some people have even added "emergency" switch at the starter (crossing selinoid).Some have had to increase the size of the wire from the dash to the starter.You did not mention the age or model of the engine,but Im guessing it is a 2 or 3 gm series engine.Check the battery first and proceed from there,the starter can be checked by a good automotive elecrtical shop. I am going to go out on a limb here and say(if the battery is good) that you have the more typical starter button/wiring issues. With reguards to the battery it should be load tested to get a true idea if it is good or not.Good Luck !
Ray, could be all of the above! Plus it could be the starter button and or wire connections. this is a common problem with the yanmar. You will need to check everthing and eliminate each. check in the archives for lots of info, some people have even added "emergency" switch at the starter (crossing selinoid).Some have had to increase the size of the wire from the dash to the starter.You did not mention the age or model of the engine,but Im guessing it is a 2 or 3 gm series engine.Check the battery first and proceed from there,the starter can be checked by a good automotive elecrtical shop. I am going to go out on a limb here and say(if the battery is good) that you have the more typical starter button/wiring issues. With reguards to the battery it should be load tested to get a true idea if it is good or not.Good Luck !
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RonD
Couple of suggestions
In relative order, based upon the symptoms you gave: 1. As Dan suggests, wiring is a logical start. The symptoms suggest an intermittent connection somewhere. Go over the starter circuit wiring to ensure all wires are OK (not broken internally -- usually happens near the connection lug) and the connections are all clean & tight. Don't forget the ground/return line. 2. When you press the starter switch and the engine doesn't crank, does the solinoid "click in"? If not, that device might be bad. Or the starter switch circuit -- easy to test; look for voltage at the solinoid end when the switch is pressed "on". 3. It doesn't sound like a battery problem from the way you describe it, although you might have some separate trouble there. A bad battery symptom would be more like it cranks progressively slower at each attempt until the engine starts. Fully charged, the no-load voltage should be up close to 14 volts. If you are reading 12+ that sounds low. Could be just the result of repeated starting loads without adequate recharging time. A caution. While troubleshooting don't repeatedly crank the engine without starting it, or crank the engine for more than a couple of seconds each minute, if your cooling is open to the seawater. You pump water each time it cranks and that can can fill the exhaust system until the water backs into the cylinders. When the engine runs, that cooling water is exhausted out; otherwise it just sits in the system accumulating. Shut off the through-hull for these tests (but don't let the engine run without opening it again!) Good luck --Ron
In relative order, based upon the symptoms you gave: 1. As Dan suggests, wiring is a logical start. The symptoms suggest an intermittent connection somewhere. Go over the starter circuit wiring to ensure all wires are OK (not broken internally -- usually happens near the connection lug) and the connections are all clean & tight. Don't forget the ground/return line. 2. When you press the starter switch and the engine doesn't crank, does the solinoid "click in"? If not, that device might be bad. Or the starter switch circuit -- easy to test; look for voltage at the solinoid end when the switch is pressed "on". 3. It doesn't sound like a battery problem from the way you describe it, although you might have some separate trouble there. A bad battery symptom would be more like it cranks progressively slower at each attempt until the engine starts. Fully charged, the no-load voltage should be up close to 14 volts. If you are reading 12+ that sounds low. Could be just the result of repeated starting loads without adequate recharging time. A caution. While troubleshooting don't repeatedly crank the engine without starting it, or crank the engine for more than a couple of seconds each minute, if your cooling is open to the seawater. You pump water each time it cranks and that can can fill the exhaust system until the water backs into the cylinders. When the engine runs, that cooling water is exhausted out; otherwise it just sits in the system accumulating. Shut off the through-hull for these tests (but don't let the engine run without opening it again!) Good luck --Ron
Start with your battery.
Ray: I would start with your battery. Remove it from the boat after it has been fully charged. Take it to a shop that can 'load test' it. Once a battery gets to a certain point in it's life they sometimes act strange. This is basically free so it is the place to start. The rest of the posts should take you down to right path. Before I would change out any parts I would check all of these connections too.
Ray: I would start with your battery. Remove it from the boat after it has been fully charged. Take it to a shop that can 'load test' it. Once a battery gets to a certain point in it's life they sometimes act strange. This is basically free so it is the place to start. The rest of the posts should take you down to right path. Before I would change out any parts I would check all of these connections too.
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Paul F.
relay
Everyone has given good advice. I had a similar problem even after getting new batteries. I installed a relay as close to the starter as I could get it. After the relay was installed the engine starts everytime.
Everyone has given good advice. I had a similar problem even after getting new batteries. I installed a relay as close to the starter as I could get it. After the relay was installed the engine starts everytime.
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Vic
If your battery fully charged is over 12.5 ...
it should start a 2gm easily ... unless some of the wires are corroded or switches.solonoid screwed up, assuming that someone hasn't downsized the stock batteries. I've started 2GM with voltage as low as 11.5 . Bought a $15 15V panel meter at Radio Shack and wouldn't be without it. yanmar charges at 14.6 and it's nice to see it in action. Vic
it should start a 2gm easily ... unless some of the wires are corroded or switches.solonoid screwed up, assuming that someone hasn't downsized the stock batteries. I've started 2GM with voltage as low as 11.5 . Bought a $15 15V panel meter at Radio Shack and wouldn't be without it. yanmar charges at 14.6 and it's nice to see it in action. Vic
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