So, only two questions this time: 1) Battery Mounting: So everyone's (V32's) batteries are in the port stern cockpit locker (or do we want to call it a lazarette?), under the two take out pieces of the wooden shelf. It seems to me that the floor of that locker is the inside of the hull at that point. So, if I run a screw down into the FRP, I run the risk of the screw pulling out or going through the dang hull. So, If I want to fasten a battery hold down tray or new battery box, I think I need to bond some cleats to the hull and then mount the battery box to the cleats. What does everyone else have there? 2) Ice Box: On my boat, an A-B Cold Machine evaporator (the rectangular box on end) is mounted at the fore end of the icebox. The thermostat is mounted on the port side just below the lid. I have a white wire shelf that covers the the whole of the remaining area (not taken up by the evap) resting on a couple of cleats about halfway up the side of the box. My Evap. frosts up pretty quick (5 days to 1/2" thick on the outside), and when I open either of the lids, there is a fair amount of liquid water on the underside (it would moisten a paper towel pretty well). Both lids are held down well by the spring clips, and a doller bill trapped between the lid and the box itself cannot be pulled out. I THINK this is moisture coming straight up from the bilge So the questions: Is your box set up differently? how do you use the area below the wire shelf? Have you plugged your drain hole to reduce moisture? Where is your compressor mounted? What kind of draw do you have on your batteries during a cruise? (us under-employed guys with new boats have lots of time to think up these kinds of questions while we're out sailing!)
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Battery location
I am unhappy with the battery location on the V-32 and am planning to install 6V Trojan in the main starboard cockpit locker (building an adequate boc) as you pointed out it is difficult to work in the bottow of the port locker. As I am planning a lenghty trip down south I need additional batteries and there is no room in the small locker. Mine has small brackets glassed in the port bottom locker so that straps can be passed to secure the battery; never used it as it is very impractical.
I am unhappy with the battery location on the V-32 and am planning to install 6V Trojan in the main starboard cockpit locker (building an adequate boc) as you pointed out it is difficult to work in the bottow of the port locker. As I am planning a lenghty trip down south I need additional batteries and there is no room in the small locker. Mine has small brackets glassed in the port bottom locker so that straps can be passed to secure the battery; never used it as it is very impractical.
You're Into It Tom..
..and there's no coming back. The logical place for another battery is in the starboard cockpit locker. A Group 31 would add half again to your capasity. If I remember, I will add a link to Trojan batteries. They have some very high capasity 6-volts that are very tall that may fit in the current location. It is a pain to get to them, though. I recall the battery base was plywood bonded to the hull and the strap anchors were screwed into the plywood. If you have a good seal to the refrig hatches, get a bottle of good wine, drink it, save the cork and put it into the drain hole. It makes a big difference. If you are not sure of the seals, go to Home Depot, look for the insulation that is three-ribbed 1/2 inch thin white self-adhesive vinyl and put it around the doors. Us retired guys have too much time too. Good luck, Rick D.
..and there's no coming back. The logical place for another battery is in the starboard cockpit locker. A Group 31 would add half again to your capasity. If I remember, I will add a link to Trojan batteries. They have some very high capasity 6-volts that are very tall that may fit in the current location. It is a pain to get to them, though. I recall the battery base was plywood bonded to the hull and the strap anchors were screwed into the plywood. If you have a good seal to the refrig hatches, get a bottle of good wine, drink it, save the cork and put it into the drain hole. It makes a big difference. If you are not sure of the seals, go to Home Depot, look for the insulation that is three-ribbed 1/2 inch thin white self-adhesive vinyl and put it around the doors. Us retired guys have too much time too. Good luck, Rick D.
mounting batteries in starbd main locker
Jean, I wonder if mounting heavy 6v batteries higher above the water line would cause additional heeling and securing problems due to the increased weight/distance off the water and center line of the boat. Re: the original question of securing, I installed bulkhead brackets above the batteries and bolted a small wooden beam across the top to hold them in place. Adding a 100amp alternator to my 2 x 6V quickly restores power. Need temp sensors and also usually run alternator on low output setting. I can get 90+ amps at 1500rpm. Noel
Jean, I wonder if mounting heavy 6v batteries higher above the water line would cause additional heeling and securing problems due to the increased weight/distance off the water and center line of the boat. Re: the original question of securing, I installed bulkhead brackets above the batteries and bolted a small wooden beam across the top to hold them in place. Adding a 100amp alternator to my 2 x 6V quickly restores power. Need temp sensors and also usually run alternator on low output setting. I can get 90+ amps at 1500rpm. Noel
Hi Noel-What alternator are you going to?
Thanks for the batery mounting comments. You may be right about heeling. I'd sure like to see the batteries as low as possible. What about next to the mast? I know it's a long way from the Alternator & Engine, but? You could keep an engine starting battery, even a group 24, near the engine and run wires to the extra batteries by the mast. Current from there is charging current (maybe as high as Noel says if you have a 100A alternator, but most likely not, and house draw current, usually way less than 20 amps, so the wire would not have to be as big as your wrist. You'd have to vent the space unless you went to a sealed design, but it not a bog deal... Just a thought
Thanks for the batery mounting comments. You may be right about heeling. I'd sure like to see the batteries as low as possible. What about next to the mast? I know it's a long way from the Alternator & Engine, but? You could keep an engine starting battery, even a group 24, near the engine and run wires to the extra batteries by the mast. Current from there is charging current (maybe as high as Noel says if you have a 100A alternator, but most likely not, and house draw current, usually way less than 20 amps, so the wire would not have to be as big as your wrist. You'd have to vent the space unless you went to a sealed design, but it not a bog deal... Just a thought
Replaced Yanmar alternator with Balmar
Re: Tom's question, I changed the Yanmar alternator for a Balmar 100A model that was a bolt on replacement. Might be oversized for the engine but works very well and allows for growth to 4 x 6V. Used a Balmar smart regulator and Blue Seas 100A meter to see current flow. Made up cables in the local West Marine. Solves all my anchoring battery refridgerator etc draw, drives the anchor windlass. Very happy with results.
Re: Tom's question, I changed the Yanmar alternator for a Balmar 100A model that was a bolt on replacement. Might be oversized for the engine but works very well and allows for growth to 4 x 6V. Used a Balmar smart regulator and Blue Seas 100A meter to see current flow. Made up cables in the local West Marine. Solves all my anchoring battery refridgerator etc draw, drives the anchor windlass. Very happy with results.
More thoughts and experience
For those of you worried about heeling with the batteries higher don't. My installation has a 4.5 kw Ferrymann generator (about 125lbs is my guess) in the port locker, the batteries were moved to the starboard locker, and one additional battery (for the generator) was mounted in the main starboard locker in the back. It balances out fairly well as the third battery is actually higher than the other two. I have added one of the smart chargers (40amp) and it does quite well with charging in short order with the generator running. It's not too loud (previous & current power boat mentality here) when it's running and it doesn't take long to bring the batteries back. AC on the boat in the summer here in Florida is GREAT. Gotta keep the heel to 10 or less for the oil sump to work correctly. It's nice for the wife. She won't get on it without the AC running when its 95. As for over heeling, I don't know. It hasn't been a problem for me but I have nothing to really compare it to.
For those of you worried about heeling with the batteries higher don't. My installation has a 4.5 kw Ferrymann generator (about 125lbs is my guess) in the port locker, the batteries were moved to the starboard locker, and one additional battery (for the generator) was mounted in the main starboard locker in the back. It balances out fairly well as the third battery is actually higher than the other two. I have added one of the smart chargers (40amp) and it does quite well with charging in short order with the generator running. It's not too loud (previous & current power boat mentality here) when it's running and it doesn't take long to bring the batteries back. AC on the boat in the summer here in Florida is GREAT. Gotta keep the heel to 10 or less for the oil sump to work correctly. It's nice for the wife. She won't get on it without the AC running when its 95. As for over heeling, I don't know. It hasn't been a problem for me but I have nothing to really compare it to.
See No One Had a Wack at Your Battery Question...
Hey Tom, Since no one else has bit on the refrigerator question, I'll have a go at it. Mainly because I'm an underemployed guy too with too much time on my hands. (Guessing we both might be benched techno weenies - I am anyway.) I think the issue with your refrig might be that it is not kept on all the time. As you probably know, when a refrigator is first turned on it generates a lot of condensation as the inside tempature cools 30+ degrees. In a non-frostfree type like on the V32, the freed mositure mostly collects on the refrigeration plates, though a little bit drains down the sides of the interior walls and into the bilge too I think. After the tempature becomes stablized, say in about 16-24 hours, the frost build up on the refrigeration plates should slow dramatically. At least that's how it is with my V32. Some additional "color": I've added one of those "smart" battery chargers, called a True Charge 20 I think, with a microprocessor that charges only when the house batteries need it, so I leave my refrig on all the time. Once in awhile, like just last week when I replaced all 3 of my batteries coincidentially, I turn off the power to the refrig. When I turned it back on, sure enough, there was a fair about of condensation build up at the beginnning. But otherwise, after long periods of continuous run time (weeks, sometimes months) I still don't have any sighnifcant additional buildup. I should also add that we aren't in and out of our refrigeration too much, though the boat is out 2-3 times a week. Openning the door more often and/or for longer periods would also quickly cause condensation buildup of course - especially in high humidity locales like the bay. As you know, it's relatively dry own here in sunny SoCal which might also contribute to different experience. Sorry if I inadventently stated the obvious. Hope you're enjoying your V32. We love ours - though I sure wish I could win a few races... Best, Rodger
Hey Tom, Since no one else has bit on the refrigerator question, I'll have a go at it. Mainly because I'm an underemployed guy too with too much time on my hands. (Guessing we both might be benched techno weenies - I am anyway.) I think the issue with your refrig might be that it is not kept on all the time. As you probably know, when a refrigator is first turned on it generates a lot of condensation as the inside tempature cools 30+ degrees. In a non-frostfree type like on the V32, the freed mositure mostly collects on the refrigeration plates, though a little bit drains down the sides of the interior walls and into the bilge too I think. After the tempature becomes stablized, say in about 16-24 hours, the frost build up on the refrigeration plates should slow dramatically. At least that's how it is with my V32. Some additional "color": I've added one of those "smart" battery chargers, called a True Charge 20 I think, with a microprocessor that charges only when the house batteries need it, so I leave my refrig on all the time. Once in awhile, like just last week when I replaced all 3 of my batteries coincidentially, I turn off the power to the refrig. When I turned it back on, sure enough, there was a fair about of condensation build up at the beginnning. But otherwise, after long periods of continuous run time (weeks, sometimes months) I still don't have any sighnifcant additional buildup. I should also add that we aren't in and out of our refrigeration too much, though the boat is out 2-3 times a week. Openning the door more often and/or for longer periods would also quickly cause condensation buildup of course - especially in high humidity locales like the bay. As you know, it's relatively dry own here in sunny SoCal which might also contribute to different experience. Sorry if I inadventently stated the obvious. Hope you're enjoying your V32. We love ours - though I sure wish I could win a few races... Best, Rodger
Yep, we are techno weenies with excess time..
So like you, I get to sail the boat 2 or 3 times a week at the moment. I *do* keep my reefer on all the time, at least when I remember to turn the dang-blasted breaker back on at the dock box! I get the frost build up on the evaporator, but I still get drops of moisture on the bottom side of the doors. Agreeing witn our friend from Rio Vista, I do think it's moisture from the bilge, coming up the hose. I've had a couple bottles of wine since his suggestion, but I never seem to be able to find the cork the next day.... So you want to win a race, eh? Well, 5th in class is not bad (I just got the Aug. Santana today and saw your name). Rick told us on the board right after the race, but did not say much about his own finish. Now I see he DNF'd, along with several others. What happened there? Anyway, how are your batteries mounted? Do you have all 3 in the same place? Do you have something epoxyed to the hull to support/ act as an anchor for your boxes or ??? BTW-glad to see you back in print!
So like you, I get to sail the boat 2 or 3 times a week at the moment. I *do* keep my reefer on all the time, at least when I remember to turn the dang-blasted breaker back on at the dock box! I get the frost build up on the evaporator, but I still get drops of moisture on the bottom side of the doors. Agreeing witn our friend from Rio Vista, I do think it's moisture from the bilge, coming up the hose. I've had a couple bottles of wine since his suggestion, but I never seem to be able to find the cork the next day.... So you want to win a race, eh? Well, 5th in class is not bad (I just got the Aug. Santana today and saw your name). Rick told us on the board right after the race, but did not say much about his own finish. Now I see he DNF'd, along with several others. What happened there? Anyway, how are your batteries mounted? Do you have all 3 in the same place? Do you have something epoxyed to the hull to support/ act as an anchor for your boxes or ??? BTW-glad to see you back in print!
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