By way of refresher, we have a 2001 410 (hull 304). I did a battery equalization this past week. Before initiating the program via the Link 2000, I made sure that the cells had sufficient water and all DC loads were off. The specific gravity was all in the green for each 4D and the series 24 starting battery. I left the battery caps on and the box tops off. The program takes 8 hours to complete and I stayed on the boat checking to make sure all was well. This is the second time I have done the equalization. Anyway, about 10 minutes before the equalization was to stop, I checked the number 2 battery (port) and saw that two or three of the cells had a small amount of fluid on the cap tops. There was that horrendous smell of sulfer. I looked and saw that the red LED was out on the Link which signifies that the equalization was over. I leaned down to the battery and could hear hissing. It felt warm. I decided to leave it alone for the rest of the night. I put the battery covers back on. What I didn't do was to turn off the battery charger for the Heart Interface Model 20. My mistake. I returned to the boat and saw that each battery read 15.05 volts! After removing each cover, the port battery and its cover were drenched with fluid and the starboard was dry. Thank goodness I had the covers on. The starting battery was also wet. Both the port and starting battery cells were completely dry. Here's my question: I was under the impression that the starting battery was stand-alone. Charging would come from the solar panel forward of the companionway hatch. Obviouly I was wrong. How come the starboard (#1) battery was not affected during equalization and the other two were? I'm in the process of replacing all of the batteries with seven 6 volt units in series and need to get this sorted out before I ruin another set of batteries. Any guidance would be appreciated, John Richard s/v Jack's Place
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Trojan T-125's, Jack
Here is a link to the site. Lots of amps in the same size golf-cart case as the 105's. I just put in four. Prices I got varied by about $25 each, so it pays to shop. I did not have my starting battery switch on when I equalized last time as I recall. Even so, I don't understand why it would boil out. It is a mystery to me why the charger would float the batteries at 15 volts after the equalization. I never had that happen in the two times I have done it. Hopefully, you can get some input here. Rick D.
Here is a link to the site. Lots of amps in the same size golf-cart case as the 105's. I just put in four. Prices I got varied by about $25 each, so it pays to shop. I did not have my starting battery switch on when I equalized last time as I recall. Even so, I don't understand why it would boil out. It is a mystery to me why the charger would float the batteries at 15 volts after the equalization. I never had that happen in the two times I have done it. Hopefully, you can get some input here. Rick D.
What brand/model of charger?
John: What brand/model of charger are you using? You may want to contact the mfg and see what they have to say about their equalization process. Some of the chargers do this automatically (ie: automatic cycles). I would hate to have this happen when you are not around.
John: What brand/model of charger are you using? You may want to contact the mfg and see what they have to say about their equalization process. Some of the chargers do this automatically (ie: automatic cycles). I would hate to have this happen when you are not around.
some possibilities
Sorry to hear about cooking your batteries. What it sounds like is that the charger did its job properly by bringing the charge up to 16V for a few hours to equalize the cells. With that complete, it should have stopped charging at which time the battery voltage would slowly lower. If the charger cycled to maintenance the batteries continue to receive some portion of a 2 amp maintenace charge. What should have happened is that the charger "saw" 16v and shut down at the predetermined time. In other words, a charger fault. To avoid a recurrence with the same charger, check the op manual to see if it will allow use of a temp sensor which would have prevented this. Regarding the start battery, on my 40.5, it is charged in common with the house bank - only isolated when voltage falls below a predetermined level such as under house bank load so as to preclude killing it Don
Sorry to hear about cooking your batteries. What it sounds like is that the charger did its job properly by bringing the charge up to 16V for a few hours to equalize the cells. With that complete, it should have stopped charging at which time the battery voltage would slowly lower. If the charger cycled to maintenance the batteries continue to receive some portion of a 2 amp maintenace charge. What should have happened is that the charger "saw" 16v and shut down at the predetermined time. In other words, a charger fault. To avoid a recurrence with the same charger, check the op manual to see if it will allow use of a temp sensor which would have prevented this. Regarding the start battery, on my 40.5, it is charged in common with the house bank - only isolated when voltage falls below a predetermined level such as under house bank load so as to preclude killing it Don
start battery
Jack, I can't shed any light on the house banks not being effected the same, but on my 410 hull 108, you have to turn the start battery switch off to isolate it from charger. Bryce S/V Spellbinder H410
Jack, I can't shed any light on the house banks not being effected the same, but on my 410 hull 108, you have to turn the start battery switch off to isolate it from charger. Bryce S/V Spellbinder H410
Correct, except.
Bryce: You are correct, except that is NOT normally the way you would want the charger wired. The charger should NOT be wired through the A/B switch (normally). The A/B switch is suppose to keep your battery banks seperated for usage on the DC side. But that does make sense that is why it did not fry too.
Bryce: You are correct, except that is NOT normally the way you would want the charger wired. The charger should NOT be wired through the A/B switch (normally). The A/B switch is suppose to keep your battery banks seperated for usage on the DC side. But that does make sense that is why it did not fry too.
Some are..
Bryce: Some of the boats are wired that way. I do not think that this is the preferred method of wiring. The charger should be charging the batteries based on the chargers sensing of each battery bank conditions. If we leave the selector switch in the off position that would mean that the charger would not charge anything.... I suppose it depends on what you want your system to do. I leave my selector switch in the 2 position all the time. Position 1 is for emergency starting only (on our boat). But regardless of the A/B switch position, we are always charging all of our batteries (when we are on shore power).
Bryce: Some of the boats are wired that way. I do not think that this is the preferred method of wiring. The charger should be charging the batteries based on the chargers sensing of each battery bank conditions. If we leave the selector switch in the off position that would mean that the charger would not charge anything.... I suppose it depends on what you want your system to do. I leave my selector switch in the 2 position all the time. Position 1 is for emergency starting only (on our boat). But regardless of the A/B switch position, we are always charging all of our batteries (when we are on shore power).
Update
I called Greg at Hunter. He said that the inverter/charger has a "echo" something-or- other that will charge the starting battery. On my boat, the starting battery has a separate on/off switch. It is in addition to the house 1-2-on-off switch. I still haven't come up wit a reason that the second house battery was unaffected. If anyone has an answer, I would really be greatful. Someone mentioned the temperature sensor. Mine is configured for this, but I don't have the line that runs to the batteries. I plan to get it. Also, there is a device available through Jack Rabbit Marine that emits a continuous pulsing charge. It installs on each battery post and is good to go. No hassles. They sell for about $100. This makes equalizing a thing of the past. I am going to replace my old 4D's with four 275 amp 6 volt batteries. This will give me usable amperage of 1000 amp/hours; significantly better that the 380 I had before this little experience. My wife has told me that I am not allowed to do any more equalization. As yet, I haven't told her the price tag of this little mishap.
I called Greg at Hunter. He said that the inverter/charger has a "echo" something-or- other that will charge the starting battery. On my boat, the starting battery has a separate on/off switch. It is in addition to the house 1-2-on-off switch. I still haven't come up wit a reason that the second house battery was unaffected. If anyone has an answer, I would really be greatful. Someone mentioned the temperature sensor. Mine is configured for this, but I don't have the line that runs to the batteries. I plan to get it. Also, there is a device available through Jack Rabbit Marine that emits a continuous pulsing charge. It installs on each battery post and is good to go. No hassles. They sell for about $100. This makes equalizing a thing of the past. I am going to replace my old 4D's with four 275 amp 6 volt batteries. This will give me usable amperage of 1000 amp/hours; significantly better that the 380 I had before this little experience. My wife has told me that I am not allowed to do any more equalization. As yet, I haven't told her the price tag of this little mishap.
4 x 275amp 6 volts are 550amp @ 12.
John: If you use 6v batteries, you need 2 of them for the equiv. of 1 12 v. I think you will end up with 550amp @ 12V. Unless you have some more juice for the pool.
John: If you use 6v batteries, you need 2 of them for the equiv. of 1 12 v. I think you will end up with 550amp @ 12V. Unless you have some more juice for the pool.
Another senior moment
Steve, Thanks for the correction. My math was a little fuzzy laced with wishful thinking. John R.
Steve, Thanks for the correction. My math was a little fuzzy laced with wishful thinking. John R.
JR
Senior moments are wonderful aren't they! I seem to have a couple a week (sometimes a couple a day). 550 amps is not too shaby unless you decide to cook a turkey in your microwave!
Senior moments are wonderful aren't they! I seem to have a couple a week (sometimes a couple a day). 550 amps is not too shaby unless you decide to cook a turkey in your microwave!
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