I have a puzzling electrical problem and I hope someone can give me some advice, because I'm definitely over my head and it sounds like the kind of problem an electrical contractor could spend hours analyzing. I wasn't having any problem while my 1991 Hunter28 was in the water. I have a small solar panel that keeps the batteries topped off. Since I've been hauled out for the winter, it seems like the batteries are draining anytime I have the main DC panel switch on, even when NONE of the component switches are on. Basically, I turn the master battery switch on to BOTH, and the charging meter needle shows full charge (top of the green arc). If I turn the DC panel master switch on but don't turn on any of the other switches (so nothing should be drawing any current), over the course of four to five hours the battery indicator needle drops slowly down to around 50%, even with the solar panel charging. When I come back the next day (after having turned off the panel and battery switches) the batteries are charged back up to the top of the green are. Would it make any difference that with the boat out of the water the electrical system isn't really grounded anywhere? I've read the Casey electrical book and everything I could find on the Internet and am at my wit's end. I hope someone can help. Thanks, Martin Cole s/v Ares
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Have your batteries tested.
Martin: Take you batteries and have them load tested. Batteries can sometimes take a charge and the voltage will come up but they are only taking a surface charge. Have you checked to see if you DO NOT turn on the DC switch if it still is loosing the charge. You should also be albe to put your volt meter between the positive side of the battery and the battery cable and see if there is any voltage being drawn when you DC switch is off.
Martin: Take you batteries and have them load tested. Batteries can sometimes take a charge and the voltage will come up but they are only taking a surface charge. Have you checked to see if you DO NOT turn on the DC switch if it still is loosing the charge. You should also be albe to put your volt meter between the positive side of the battery and the battery cable and see if there is any voltage being drawn when you DC switch is off.
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Mike DiMario
Ohm Meter for me
Martin, I would do as Steve suggested and get the battery checked. If the battery checks out okay, then I would use an ohmmeter. You can get a fairly cheap meter that has Rx1000 at a minimum. Disconnect your battery. Make sure there is no electricity in the lines (read across the unconnected battery terminals with the voltmeter). Next set the meter for resistance x 1000. If you get a reading between the 2 unconnected terminals you are now seeing the culprit that is draining your battery. Basically, if all of the circuits are off and the battery switch is off, you should not read any continuity. If you do read continuity, start disconnecting one device at a time until the culprit circuit is identified. You will know it is the one when your meter goes to infinite or open circuit. If you get this far,<g> start checking the wiring and the end device until you expose the drain to your battery. If you need more help, feel free to email me. Good luck, Mike D
Martin, I would do as Steve suggested and get the battery checked. If the battery checks out okay, then I would use an ohmmeter. You can get a fairly cheap meter that has Rx1000 at a minimum. Disconnect your battery. Make sure there is no electricity in the lines (read across the unconnected battery terminals with the voltmeter). Next set the meter for resistance x 1000. If you get a reading between the 2 unconnected terminals you are now seeing the culprit that is draining your battery. Basically, if all of the circuits are off and the battery switch is off, you should not read any continuity. If you do read continuity, start disconnecting one device at a time until the culprit circuit is identified. You will know it is the one when your meter goes to infinite or open circuit. If you get this far,<g> start checking the wiring and the end device until you expose the drain to your battery. If you need more help, feel free to email me. Good luck, Mike D
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Don Alexander
State of Charge Meter
Martin, I feel it is extremely unlikely that your batteries are losing 50% of their charge in only 5 hours and even more unlikely that they are being fully recharged by the solar panel in the remainder of the day - unless the batteries have VERY low capacity. You would notice this by turning on several lights and they would dim visibly in only a few minutes. Some of the cheap state of charge indicators do deliberately draw a small but not insignificant current. The advice from the other posters is sound. You should also measure the actual voltage at the battery to confirm it is what the charge meter says and then set the meter on the highest amps range i.e. 10 amps or more, and with the master switch OFF and a coat over the solar panel, dab the meter across the master switch contacts. I say dab quickly because, if there is a serious drain, you could damage the meter. All modern meters are internally fused though. It should read zero. If it does not then you have a continuous drain which must be found. If you have lots of LEDs on your control panel these will take about 10 mA each but not enough to cause the trouble you are experiencing. It could be something 'always on' which you are unaware of. On my boat there is a constant drain from 'always on' items but my solar panel supports them more than adequately - even in an English winter! They are:- 1) Link 1000 battery meter - 50 mA, 2) NASA Navtex weather forecast receiver - 45 mA, 3) Adverc Engine alternator controller - 5 mA, 4) Burglar alarm - 2 mA. 5) Bilge pump via float switch - 6 amps - but only when operating. Also my Eberspacher warm air unit is wired by-passing the master switch so that it is impossible to switch it off without the essential run down cooling off period. I hope my setup will have given you some clues. Regards.
Martin, I feel it is extremely unlikely that your batteries are losing 50% of their charge in only 5 hours and even more unlikely that they are being fully recharged by the solar panel in the remainder of the day - unless the batteries have VERY low capacity. You would notice this by turning on several lights and they would dim visibly in only a few minutes. Some of the cheap state of charge indicators do deliberately draw a small but not insignificant current. The advice from the other posters is sound. You should also measure the actual voltage at the battery to confirm it is what the charge meter says and then set the meter on the highest amps range i.e. 10 amps or more, and with the master switch OFF and a coat over the solar panel, dab the meter across the master switch contacts. I say dab quickly because, if there is a serious drain, you could damage the meter. All modern meters are internally fused though. It should read zero. If it does not then you have a continuous drain which must be found. If you have lots of LEDs on your control panel these will take about 10 mA each but not enough to cause the trouble you are experiencing. It could be something 'always on' which you are unaware of. On my boat there is a constant drain from 'always on' items but my solar panel supports them more than adequately - even in an English winter! They are:- 1) Link 1000 battery meter - 50 mA, 2) NASA Navtex weather forecast receiver - 45 mA, 3) Adverc Engine alternator controller - 5 mA, 4) Burglar alarm - 2 mA. 5) Bilge pump via float switch - 6 amps - but only when operating. Also my Eberspacher warm air unit is wired by-passing the master switch so that it is impossible to switch it off without the essential run down cooling off period. I hope my setup will have given you some clues. Regards.
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Andy
Pumps
Is there a chance you bilge pump (which is wired hot to the battery bank) is running? Maybe while you're on the hard, the float pump is stuck "ON" and there's no water to slosh it off?
Is there a chance you bilge pump (which is wired hot to the battery bank) is running? Maybe while you're on the hard, the float pump is stuck "ON" and there's no water to slosh it off?
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Rick Sylvester
You didn't say if you had flooded batteries but
in addition to the other good recommedations I'd also check the specific gravity of your individual battery cells. The bulb type tester is cheap and will usually reveal any number of battery problems.
in addition to the other good recommedations I'd also check the specific gravity of your individual battery cells. The bulb type tester is cheap and will usually reveal any number of battery problems.
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Martin Cole
Thanks for all the response
Thanks, guys, for the great advice and responses to my question. It's what makes these forums so valuable. I do have wet batteries but they're closed, "maintenence free" which I know doesn't always mean they are. Also, my bilge pump is connected outside the master switch but has been kept clear and operable all winter so it definitely isn't running all the time. I got several good avenues from you guys to check this weekend when I go back to the boat. I'll post to let you all know what works out. If anyone else wants to provide more advice, please don't take this to mean I don't want any more replies. And by the way, Rick, I checked out your website a couple of days ago. That is an absolutely gorgeous finish on the topsides of your boat. It makes me really envious, but I probably can't justify that level of expense for my 28 footer that gets mostly weekend sails. But very beautiful work restoring your boat. Thanks all, Martin
Thanks, guys, for the great advice and responses to my question. It's what makes these forums so valuable. I do have wet batteries but they're closed, "maintenence free" which I know doesn't always mean they are. Also, my bilge pump is connected outside the master switch but has been kept clear and operable all winter so it definitely isn't running all the time. I got several good avenues from you guys to check this weekend when I go back to the boat. I'll post to let you all know what works out. If anyone else wants to provide more advice, please don't take this to mean I don't want any more replies. And by the way, Rick, I checked out your website a couple of days ago. That is an absolutely gorgeous finish on the topsides of your boat. It makes me really envious, but I probably can't justify that level of expense for my 28 footer that gets mostly weekend sails. But very beautiful work restoring your boat. Thanks all, Martin
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