I am in the market for a battery charger to install in my Santana 35, which has a very basic 2 bank, 12V system. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
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Truecharge 40 Plus
I have four wet batteries, two banks. Last July, my old 30A charger died on me and I did some shopping around and went for the Truecharge. Since July, I haven't had to add water or do any other maintenance on my batteries. This charger is smarter than I am. It's in the 400 dollar range but I feel like it's worth it. I went ahead and got the remote panel that you can get with it that allows the monitoring of what the status of the charge is and if the charger is functioning properly from inside of the cabin. If this one ever goes bust, I'll probably get another just like it.
I have four wet batteries, two banks. Last July, my old 30A charger died on me and I did some shopping around and went for the Truecharge. Since July, I haven't had to add water or do any other maintenance on my batteries. This charger is smarter than I am. It's in the 400 dollar range but I feel like it's worth it. I went ahead and got the remote panel that you can get with it that allows the monitoring of what the status of the charge is and if the charger is functioning properly from inside of the cabin. If this one ever goes bust, I'll probably get another just like it.
Truecharge are very good
I agree with D.B. and have bought the same TrueCharge 40 for my past two boats. However, with a basic system as described by Robert, I think the Truecharge 20 would be sufficient and save some money! Best, Trevor
I agree with D.B. and have bought the same TrueCharge 40 for my past two boats. However, with a basic system as described by Robert, I think the Truecharge 20 would be sufficient and save some money! Best, Trevor
Here is what I did...
Hi Robert. I replaced my electrical system four years ago and it is working out very well on my H380, essentially near the same size boat that you have. I put in four golf cart batteries (440 amps) for the house bank and a deep discharge group 27 for the starting engine (the latter because this boat has a solar panel). My next change was to add a Xantrex Truecharge 20 Plus Battery Charger. This charger has worked flawlessly all year long (we don't haul out in the northwest). On my navigation locker I installed a Link 20 Two Bank battery monitor. It just tells me everything I want to know about the status of my batteres. I also installed a Smart Alternator Regulator on the motor and disabled the alternator regulator on the engine. This means the engine will keep charging as long as this regulator senses the batteries need the charge. I did not change the Alternator to a high output type (Balmar) as the one that came with the engine produces 55 amps and I thought I'd see how this one works first. So far, it has done its job and I don't have a bigger pull on the engine. While I had everything unwired, I added a Xantrex Zap-Stop Alternator Protector because I have friends who like to be helpful at times. This was the only thing that wasn't costly. What this has done is allow me to sit on the anchor for two or three days without starting up the engine and during the winter months, I keep my batteries charged up and working with the refrig and freezer alway on. Most freezer repair guys say this is best for the units. Hope this helps. Les
Hi Robert. I replaced my electrical system four years ago and it is working out very well on my H380, essentially near the same size boat that you have. I put in four golf cart batteries (440 amps) for the house bank and a deep discharge group 27 for the starting engine (the latter because this boat has a solar panel). My next change was to add a Xantrex Truecharge 20 Plus Battery Charger. This charger has worked flawlessly all year long (we don't haul out in the northwest). On my navigation locker I installed a Link 20 Two Bank battery monitor. It just tells me everything I want to know about the status of my batteres. I also installed a Smart Alternator Regulator on the motor and disabled the alternator regulator on the engine. This means the engine will keep charging as long as this regulator senses the batteries need the charge. I did not change the Alternator to a high output type (Balmar) as the one that came with the engine produces 55 amps and I thought I'd see how this one works first. So far, it has done its job and I don't have a bigger pull on the engine. While I had everything unwired, I added a Xantrex Zap-Stop Alternator Protector because I have friends who like to be helpful at times. This was the only thing that wasn't costly. What this has done is allow me to sit on the anchor for two or three days without starting up the engine and during the winter months, I keep my batteries charged up and working with the refrig and freezer alway on. Most freezer repair guys say this is best for the units. Hope this helps. Les
Solar panel
Les, I am wondering what size of solar and make you installed on your 380. Where did you located it and are you happy with it.
Les, I am wondering what size of solar and make you installed on your 380. Where did you located it and are you happy with it.
Difference Between Truecharge 20 and 40
Whether you need the Truecharge 20 or 40 depends how large the bank of batteries is you're trying to charge. The Truecharge 20 will handle battery banks up to 400 amp hours. above that you'll need the 40.
Whether you need the Truecharge 20 or 40 depends how large the bank of batteries is you're trying to charge. The Truecharge 20 will handle battery banks up to 400 amp hours. above that you'll need the 40.
Robert Les' system is superb. Also try: http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=929603044 and http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=433600922&r=532609732#532609732 and http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=517601911&r=137601911#137601911 from our C34 website. Also check the C36 website with very good electrical info. Stu
The solar power cell came with the boat
Randy, The solar power cell came with the boat and is situatied in front of the dodger and on top of the sea hood. It is wired directly into the engine battery and no where else. I have put a fuse in that line as a safety precaution but think it probably was overkill. I haven't figured out how to measure how much power it is generating but I suspect not very much as it is not very big. But because of ii, I put the group 27 deep discharge battery for the engine. What I have found so far, is that the engine battery seems to need more distilled water than my house batteries. I suspect this is because the solar panel is constantly trickle charging that battery. I am not an expert on this subject but designed it all from Calder's book on Boat Systems.
Randy, The solar power cell came with the boat and is situatied in front of the dodger and on top of the sea hood. It is wired directly into the engine battery and no where else. I have put a fuse in that line as a safety precaution but think it probably was overkill. I haven't figured out how to measure how much power it is generating but I suspect not very much as it is not very big. But because of ii, I put the group 27 deep discharge battery for the engine. What I have found so far, is that the engine battery seems to need more distilled water than my house batteries. I suspect this is because the solar panel is constantly trickle charging that battery. I am not an expert on this subject but designed it all from Calder's book on Boat Systems.
Les, that sounds like a good (or too much) charge
for the Northwest. You can tell how much of a charge you're getting with a digital voltmeter. Test the battery after the charger has been off for a few hours. You want about 12.8 volts (in a perfect world) Check it again with the charger hooked up. 14.6 is the limit unless you are equalizing. Even that is high. Any more than that and you found the cause of water loss. You can leave the fuse out of the circuit (to turn it off) or get a regulator for solar cells. I'm sure lots of guys can give you some ideas. I've only had one of these things and it was small.
for the Northwest. You can tell how much of a charge you're getting with a digital voltmeter. Test the battery after the charger has been off for a few hours. You want about 12.8 volts (in a perfect world) Check it again with the charger hooked up. 14.6 is the limit unless you are equalizing. Even that is high. Any more than that and you found the cause of water loss. You can leave the fuse out of the circuit (to turn it off) or get a regulator for solar cells. I'm sure lots of guys can give you some ideas. I've only had one of these things and it was small.
Les, If you are losing water...
... you are probably overcharging. Do you have a regulator - they make 'em specially for solar panels for this vey reason - not too expensive. Derek
... you are probably overcharging. Do you have a regulator - they make 'em specially for solar panels for this vey reason - not too expensive. Derek
Derek is right
Les, Derek is probably right about the loss of water. You panel might not be putting out much, but if it's unregulated, it's putting out a charge all of the time, even when you've hit max charge, and could be cooking off your water. Try disconnecting it while your away. I have a 55 watt panel run through a regulator which simply shuts down when you've reached max charge. Regulators are not that expensive.
Les, Derek is probably right about the loss of water. You panel might not be putting out much, but if it's unregulated, it's putting out a charge all of the time, even when you've hit max charge, and could be cooking off your water. Try disconnecting it while your away. I have a 55 watt panel run through a regulator which simply shuts down when you've reached max charge. Regulators are not that expensive.
Much thanks...
I appreciated the advice--sorta had that in the back of my mind. I'm planning on buying a digital volt meter but I'm waiting until I take the local USPS electrical course. How come these answers seem to cost me money? I know, I know, it's a boat in which you pour..... Thanks again. Les
I appreciated the advice--sorta had that in the back of my mind. I'm planning on buying a digital volt meter but I'm waiting until I take the local USPS electrical course. How come these answers seem to cost me money? I know, I know, it's a boat in which you pour..... Thanks again. Les
Digital voltmeter
I don't know if this would interest anyone, but I got a digital voltmeter from some guy off ebay who'll sell one for $12 shipped or 2 for $20. You can email him at sgw74@prodigy.net. Check the link below for info on the actual voltmeter. What I did was wire it to a 2 way temporary switch so I can quickly check the voltage on either of my batteries. A cheap and simple method, definitely not as good as one of those battery monitors but does the job for my needs and cost $15 for the whole setup.
I don't know if this would interest anyone, but I got a digital voltmeter from some guy off ebay who'll sell one for $12 shipped or 2 for $20. You can email him at sgw74@prodigy.net. Check the link below for info on the actual voltmeter. What I did was wire it to a 2 way temporary switch so I can quickly check the voltage on either of my batteries. A cheap and simple method, definitely not as good as one of those battery monitors but does the job for my needs and cost $15 for the whole setup.
Brent, that is so cool!
Back in '86 when my H34 was being commissioned, I had to ask around Seattle for one. It cost $100.00 and I had to wire it up with nine wires out the back. Now they are stocking stuffer's! I'm gonna get a bunch, even for my tractor!, and backup generator, and,
Back in '86 when my H34 was being commissioned, I had to ask around Seattle for one. It cost $100.00 and I had to wire it up with nine wires out the back. Now they are stocking stuffer's! I'm gonna get a bunch, even for my tractor!, and backup generator, and,
DVM
That's a nice one brent but I picked one up on ebay for $20 that has 4 digits and you can program the decimal place. I set mine up for XX.XX. A much more accurate reading than XX.X Unfortunately I no longer have his website. Tim R
That's a nice one brent but I picked one up on ebay for $20 that has 4 digits and you can program the decimal place. I set mine up for XX.XX. A much more accurate reading than XX.X Unfortunately I no longer have his website. Tim R
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