Barrier Coat

Oct 30, 2019
148
Greetings all,

I'm being told by my new marina that Blue Fin really should have a
barrier coat before going in the salt water. Apparently environmental
laws in California make this more complicated to do on your own.

I have a rather thin ablative bottom paint on and need something more
I'm sure.

Thoughts?

Victor
 
Oct 31, 2019
230
Victor, not sure if you're asking whether you need a barrier coat, or
seeking tips on removing/applying bottom coats. I have taken all my
boats (3) down to the bare gel coat and have applied interlux two part
epoxy barrier coats (minimum 5 coats). You need to cover up well and use
a respirator iwhen removing the old ablatives - they are toxic to humans
as well as the environment. I have always sanded the stuff off
(sometimes through multiple layers) with an orbital sander and 80 grit
or higher to start. It is very tedious. I put plastic drop sheets down
to catch the particles. But proper environmental laws probably require
you to do more than just that, as the wind carries some of the dust
away. The interlux product is easy to use and the instructions are
straightforward. A good trick is to use alternating coats of white and
grey interprotect - this ensures full coverage with each fresh coat.
Cheers, Trev V2915


________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Victor Schreffler
Sent: December 5, 2006 12:35 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Barrier Coat
Greetings all,

I'm being told by my new marina that Blue Fin really should have a
barrier coat before going in the salt water. Apparently environmental
laws in California make this more complicated to do on your own.

I have a rather thin ablative bottom paint on and need something more
I'm sure.

Thoughts?

Victor
 
Apr 22, 2008
47
Albin Vega 27 San Francisco
Thanks Trevor--

My question did have two facets, the first being whether or not a
barrier coat was needed. The second was with regard to what was
involved in doing one and you've answered that for me. Appreciate it.

Victor
 
Mar 23, 2005
66
Applying a barrier coat is always a good idea. It protects the most important part of our Vegas-the hull! I know that Vegas are not prone to osmosis, but it's a good idea nonetheless. I have applied the Interlux Interprotect System to Lyra and it was really easy to do. We can be thankful that we have to work only on a 27' hull....

As far as taking the old bottom paint off, I used this stuff called "Peel Away." It is a gel that you apply to the hull, then cover with this special paper. Leave it on overnight then you are ready to peel away all the old layers at once. It works really well, although you still need a scraper, but it is nothing compared to sanding the nasty stuff. The clear advantage isthat you don't have bottom paint particles flying all over. It took me two full days of work to peel away the old antifouling and sand the hull down with 80grit for the Interlux barrier coats.

I know West Marine supplies the "Peel Away" product. Check out this for more info: Paint Removers, Graffiti Control, Restoration and Protection for Homeowners and Professionals
Let me know of any more questions.

Cedric
V-2941
"Lyra"
 
Oct 30, 2019
1,459
For an interesting article on Barrier Coats here is a link to the
Plastic Classic Forum:

I've stripped Sin Tacha's bottom to the gelcoat using a power washer,
a carbide bladed-scraper, finishing with a palm sander and 120 grit
paper. Pretty hard work, but the whole job only took a total of 12
hours, divided up into 2 hour sessions to be kind to my back.

The bottom shows no sign of blisters and is not getting a barrier
coat, simply two coats of ablative anti fouling. If blisters have not
appeared in 35 years of use I don't think they are going to show up
now. My main concern is sealing a surface which may contain moisture.

In Don Casey's book "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair" (page 103 section
7) he says "Keep track of the drying process by taping 6-inch squares
of plastic cut from heavy freezer bags to a dozen or more places on
the hull-2 or 3 above the waterline. Seal the plastic all around with
electricians tape. Sun on the plastic will cause moisture in the hull
to condense on the plastic. Open the plastic and wipe it and the hull
dry every few days, then seal it back in place. When condensation
ceases to form in any of the test panels on sunny days, the hull is
sufficiently dry to reseal."

That was the deciding factor for me as there's not much sunshine on
the calendar between now and launch time!

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
Oct 31, 2019
230
Good point about drying the hull before applying the barrier coat. I
always strip the hull in the fall and apply the barrier coat in the
spring. Never had any signs of post-barrier-coat blistering, even many
seasons later. I guess a cold Canadian winter is good for something
after all. Cheers, Trev V2915
________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pjacobs55
Sent: December 6, 2006 12:12 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Barrier Coat
For an interesting article on Barrier Coats here is a link to the
Plastic Classic Forum:
http://www.triton381.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627&highlight=barrier

I've stripped Sin Tacha's bottom to the gelcoat using a power washer,
a carbide bladed-scraper, finishing with a palm sander and 120 grit
paper. Pretty hard work, but the whole job only took a total of 12
hours, divided up into 2 hour sessions to be kind to my back.

The bottom shows no sign of blisters and is not getting a barrier
coat, simply two coats of ablative anti fouling. If blisters have not
appeared in 35 years of use I don't think they are going to show up
now. My main concern is sealing a surface which may contain moisture.

In Don Casey's book "Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair" (page 103 section
7) he says "Keep track of the drying process by taping 6-inch squares
of plastic cut from heavy freezer bags to a dozen or more places on
the hull-2 or 3 above the waterline. Seal the plastic all around with
electricians tape. Sun on the plastic will cause moisture in the hull
to condense on the plastic. Open the plastic and wipe it and the hull
dry every few days, then seal it back in place. When condensation
ceases to form in any of the test panels on sunny days, the hull is
sufficiently dry to reseal."

That was the deciding factor for me as there's not much sunshine on
the calendar between now and launch time!

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Peter

I f had done all the hard work of stripping down to gelcoat tehn I am
sure I would spend a few more hours and epoxy the hull. Seems a waste
not to do it.. Must admit I have only ever seen one Vega (Surveyed over
100) with a small patch of osmosis and that had been left in the
Medaterrean for 15 years without coming out at all. The lay-up of the
Vega was so good that Osmosis is not really a problem.

Cheers

Steve Birch (Technical)
 

dk8521

.
Oct 30, 2019
58
Just my 2 cents woth, if we own boats that are of 1970's vintage and havn't had a blister problem the chances are the boat was properly constructed in the first place. Why fix it if it ain't broke? Are there any Vega owners out there who have had blister problems?
Dick
 
Nov 1, 2006
9
Just pulled mine out of the water a couple weeks ago, hadn't been
pulled for 4 years. No blisters. Barnacles -- yes, but no blisters.
Hull 1493 "freya", formerly "cheers".
 
Oct 2, 2005
465
The Tern has been in salt water for more than 30 years without a
blister. The previous owner did apply an epoxy barrier coat but it
was part of a major re-fit and after he had already taken the time to
strip the hull anyway. I was told there had been no blisters and he
gave me no reason to doubt his word. And then the Vegas have a
reputation of not getting blisters as readily as some other boats. My
thought is to put Blue Fin in the water and enjoy her now. Put an
inexpensive bottom paint on her with the plan that you will be pulling
her out in a year for routine maintenance anyway, take a look at her
then and decide. No doubt a cross country move has got to be
stressful, so why add a major bottom job now?
Regarding stricter environmental standards in California. . . .
The slight inconvenience is worth the small effort it takes to comply.
The air is cleaner now than it was 30 years ago, and the population
has doubled. Unless there are more stringent local standards in the
Bay Area than here, I don't think you will find them as onerous as you
have been lead to believe.
Craig Tern #1519