Next year I will have the hull and steel keel epoxy sealed. This season can I get away with epoxy patching the rust spots on the steel keel, barrier coat and antifoul? If so, what kind of barrier coat will do the trick? Is there a roll on coating the will help seal and keep water for corroding the keel? Looking for something very simple that has good results. Thanks Paul
- Status
If your keel is in rough shape
. . . nothing will really help. If you have a couple of rusty spots then you could patch the area with epoxy. A barrier coat on the whole keel may not be worthwhile considering you are planning on a refinishing job next year. Regards, Ted
. . . nothing will really help. If you have a couple of rusty spots then you could patch the area with epoxy. A barrier coat on the whole keel may not be worthwhile considering you are planning on a refinishing job next year. Regards, Ted
Barrier coat- Paul
Paul, If you don't mind me asking, how are you planning to strip the bottom? Dennis
Paul, If you don't mind me asking, how are you planning to strip the bottom? Dennis
Gelcoat over a steel keel
The keel is gelcoat, at least 99% but there are numerous (20) dime size spots that have been drilled out and filled with 3M Marine epoxy filler. These spots will be sanded smooth and then I expect to VC17 antifoul. My question is this. Should I put some type of barrier over the filled spots prior to the antifoul?
The keel is gelcoat, at least 99% but there are numerous (20) dime size spots that have been drilled out and filled with 3M Marine epoxy filler. These spots will be sanded smooth and then I expect to VC17 antifoul. My question is this. Should I put some type of barrier over the filled spots prior to the antifoul?
Refinishing an iron keel
Jon Bastien wrote a detailed procedure for striping, prepping, fairing and painting an iron keel for a H23. Check the archives. Since you're in fresh water and you only want to cover 20 dime-sized holes for one season, try JB Weld or some other inexpensive, readily available and easily removable epoxy and just cover the affected areas. Why bother with the rest of the keel if it's OK? Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Jon Bastien wrote a detailed procedure for striping, prepping, fairing and painting an iron keel for a H23. Check the archives. Since you're in fresh water and you only want to cover 20 dime-sized holes for one season, try JB Weld or some other inexpensive, readily available and easily removable epoxy and just cover the affected areas. Why bother with the rest of the keel if it's OK? Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Should be OK for now ...
If the rust spots (on steel keel) have already been epoxied (“drilled & filled”) to your satisfaction - then you could wait ‘till next season to overcoat the entire keel /w epoxy, prior to anti-fouling. Epoxy IS a barrier-coat. From Michael Kasten (Metal Boat Designer): “Present technology for protecting metal boats is plain and simple: EPOXY PAINT. Once the metal is protected with a 12- to 16-mil dry-film thickness of epoxy, it can then be top coated with whatever is appropriate to the situation. http://www.kastenmarine.com/corrosion.htm I've often used Phosphoric Acid ("Ospho") to prime & etch steel, prior to Epoxy coating, then (sometimes) painting. Regards, Gord
If the rust spots (on steel keel) have already been epoxied (“drilled & filled”) to your satisfaction - then you could wait ‘till next season to overcoat the entire keel /w epoxy, prior to anti-fouling. Epoxy IS a barrier-coat. From Michael Kasten (Metal Boat Designer): “Present technology for protecting metal boats is plain and simple: EPOXY PAINT. Once the metal is protected with a 12- to 16-mil dry-film thickness of epoxy, it can then be top coated with whatever is appropriate to the situation. http://www.kastenmarine.com/corrosion.htm I've often used Phosphoric Acid ("Ospho") to prime & etch steel, prior to Epoxy coating, then (sometimes) painting. Regards, Gord
Looked for that archive but could not find it
Coukld not find that iron keel thread. Where is it listed?
Coukld not find that iron keel thread. Where is it listed?
Some On-Line Resources
“Practical Sailor” Magazine offers: Preventative Maintenance and Repairs (Ballast Keels): http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/907keels.pdf Keels - Minor Maintenance & Repair http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/841keels.pdf “Good Old Boat” Magazine: Volume 2, Number 5, September/October 1999. “Singing the boat bottom blisters blues” http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/blisterbottom.htm HTH Gord
“Practical Sailor” Magazine offers: Preventative Maintenance and Repairs (Ballast Keels): http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/907keels.pdf Keels - Minor Maintenance & Repair http://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/841keels.pdf “Good Old Boat” Magazine: Volume 2, Number 5, September/October 1999. “Singing the boat bottom blisters blues” http://www.boatus.com/goodoldboat/blisterbottom.htm HTH Gord
Here it is
The link to Jon Bastien's post is below. I searched the archives using "keel epoxy Bastien" as keywords, starting with the year 2001 and working backwards. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
The link to Jon Bastien's post is below. I searched the archives using "keel epoxy Bastien" as keywords, starting with the year 2001 and working backwards. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
Bastien's post & Interlux helpline
My experience with the Interlux helpline when I did my iron keel a couple of years back was mixed. I never felt the folks at the other end of the line had any real hands on experience, and called back several times over a couple of weeks hoping I'd get someone with experience. Bastien's post has some examples. He was told to use 36 or 80 sandpaper. From my experience only 36 is agreessive enough to use on iron, 80 is useless. He was told to prime with PrimeWash under the 2000, yet the label on the 2000E says its an excellent primer for under water metals. You can skip the PrimeWash based on my experience. I was told to use WaterTite and Bastien was told to use 417/418. Both appear to be suitable underwater fairing epoxy so why does Interlux have two products? BTW the 2000E instructions mention 417/418 while the WaterTite mentions 2000E. Confusing???? Now that I have some experience with Interlux I'd probably use them again, but if anyone new asked me for a recommendation I'd point them to West System. Interlux just has too many overlapping epoxy and solvents products. I'd say the steps are: Grind Wash with 216 Apply a coat of 2000E Fair (if needed) with 417/418 or Watertite More coats of 2000E Kevin
My experience with the Interlux helpline when I did my iron keel a couple of years back was mixed. I never felt the folks at the other end of the line had any real hands on experience, and called back several times over a couple of weeks hoping I'd get someone with experience. Bastien's post has some examples. He was told to use 36 or 80 sandpaper. From my experience only 36 is agreessive enough to use on iron, 80 is useless. He was told to prime with PrimeWash under the 2000, yet the label on the 2000E says its an excellent primer for under water metals. You can skip the PrimeWash based on my experience. I was told to use WaterTite and Bastien was told to use 417/418. Both appear to be suitable underwater fairing epoxy so why does Interlux have two products? BTW the 2000E instructions mention 417/418 while the WaterTite mentions 2000E. Confusing???? Now that I have some experience with Interlux I'd probably use them again, but if anyone new asked me for a recommendation I'd point them to West System. Interlux just has too many overlapping epoxy and solvents products. I'd say the steps are: Grind Wash with 216 Apply a coat of 2000E Fair (if needed) with 417/418 or Watertite More coats of 2000E Kevin
Glassing in the keel works very well
We talked about this on another thread. Just use glass mat with polyester resin. I've seen it hold up perfectly after nine years. No special prep work needed on iron.
We talked about this on another thread. Just use glass mat with polyester resin. I've seen it hold up perfectly after nine years. No special prep work needed on iron.
Fred, question on glassing
When you say no special prep work required, do you mean it can go right over any rust spots, and no primer is required over bare metal? thanks Kevin
When you say no special prep work required, do you mean it can go right over any rust spots, and no primer is required over bare metal? thanks Kevin
Kevin, it was a long time ago, (70s) but as I
recall, we did nothing special except grind off the solid rust down to iron. We didn't even go below the surface of the pores. The resin encapsulated the recessed rust. We used mat and then faired it smooth with a disk sander. It seems like we only used about two layers of mat but I'm not sure. After 9 years, the boat was hauled and sold. The keel was still perfect. The boat was a Rawson 26, a cousin to Rick Ds' T Bird. He did the same to his keel and it only needed a touch up after 15 years. I'm not making this up.
recall, we did nothing special except grind off the solid rust down to iron. We didn't even go below the surface of the pores. The resin encapsulated the recessed rust. We used mat and then faired it smooth with a disk sander. It seems like we only used about two layers of mat but I'm not sure. After 9 years, the boat was hauled and sold. The keel was still perfect. The boat was a Rawson 26, a cousin to Rick Ds' T Bird. He did the same to his keel and it only needed a touch up after 15 years. I'm not making this up.
- Status