Barlow 16 winch on 28' Oday mast

[fourwhitesocks]

** I know there are similar forums but none address exactly what I'm encountering with removing these Barlow winches....thank you ahead of time ;-)

Ok I've looked everywhere, trying to remove my Barlow 16 winch on my mast (for raising my main) I ALREADY know that you have to remove the cap screw from down in the deep center of what would be the bottom inside center.

***** This winch has no retaining ring at top and OR / no holes like for a usual spanner wrench, where you would spin any top sections off FYI

My problem is that I don't see anything down in there at all it's totally flat in there? I'm sure this is maybe a cover over the screw to help keep it clean or something, but how do I get that flat cover part out OUT? I've tried dental tools, screw drivers, ect, frustrating :/

I will try and upload a photo of the 'flat part' later, if I can!! Really nothing to see it's just flat in there... has to come off somehow.

 

[Davidasailor26]

If I remember correctly the mast winches don't have a screw in the hub the way the jib sheet winches do. The flat spot is basically a button you depress, which frees the rest of the winch housing to be pulled off. Be sure to put ample towels on the deck to catch whatever expensive parts might fall out.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Barlow 16 with center removed and all apart

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Ok wow, yikes yep had towels everywhere already lol...

Here's a pic I took of it, maybe this will help!!!

*** hard to do under the shrinkwrap

http://prntscr.com/huiwx1

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Thank you Charlie, I understand and see your pics.... my problem is the cap screw inside is FLAT, ......no where to put a screwdriver or anything....totally flat inside see my pic link above :/

See you have an indent on yours, mine there's nothing: see this link of yours:
http://prntscr.com/huiz9l

 

[fourwhitesocks]

I will check back on this post later ...

 

[jssailem]

@fourwhitesocks here is the Barlow parts and instructions link. This may help.
http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/RestorationIssues/Manuals/Barlow Barient Winchs.pdf

When you remove the cap and body it is likely that bearings may fall off/out of the winch. You need to be able to capture all the pieces. Towels have proven valuable.

 

[jssailem]

You may need to scribe/cut a line back in the screw. Wear may have eroded the screw.

 

[jssailem]

Here is another link that may help.
http://www.huttonwinches.com/

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Ok wow thank you guys for all the replies. I think the link that Jssailem sent is the one that helped solve it. On mine according to info from that link you need to press down on the center and this will like let you pop of the center part. There is nothing to screw off in there, kinda as I suspected. Hopefully I won't go flying backward when it goes and loose anything, lol...I will give it a shot this weekend and post back with my results.

His link from above was: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/RestorationIssues/Manuals/Barlow Barient Winchs.pdf

 

[LANCE ON CLOUD NINE]

I am fairly certain (but not positive) I am giving correct advice here, its been so long - but I think your winch is designed to use downward pressure on that flat cap, to release a coiled retaining spring. I think you can use a 3/8 socket extension to push it down. Mine was old and crumbled, and I was able to coil and release the spring with a pair of needle nose pliers. These winches have no bearings, but rather a synthetic fixed inner hub they rotate around. It sounds crazy at first, but when you see how simple they are it starts to make a lot of sense.
If you are rebuilding because it is binding up more over time...it is the synthetic hub that is expanding with age. The answer is a little time lapping all around it with sand paper...you will be able to tell when you have it right, because you can keep putting the drum back on, until it feels right (and you will see that it will feel like new.) Another thing I did was polish the inside of the drum with very fine steel wool. I hope this make sense as you proceed, best of luck.
Edited to add - my 16 looked more like yours and was polished and slightly different than the picture of Charlies...so take what I said as a strong maybe. But could be different models out there.

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Lance, thank you very much! Yep that is what I mentioned that Jssailem said too but your extra details I'm hoping will help me further, esp the part with the 3.8 socket extension because I was wondering to stick in there! Your detail is great thank you!!!
I'm gonna try it this weekend!

 

[fourwhitesocks]

It worked! I got it off the mast yesterday, thanks to some extra help from a friend. I put a 3.8 socket with an extension just like Lance from above recommended but I added a large socket on the other end of it actually so the part pushing into the palm of your hand while your 'pushing it' down into the center of the winch would be a little easier on the hand. Worked perfect!

It was super dry and crying out for help, poor winch so glad I got it off!!

 

[jssailem]

Good for you.

 

[LANCE ON CLOUD NINE]

Great to hear! If indeed yours has the synthetic inner hub, with no bearings...it calls for no lubrication, (and some claim that lubing between the hub and drum actually causes it to stick later) just sand it equally all around, until the drum fits on easily and turns smoothly. Best of luck.

 

[thinwater]

1. Post pictures!
2. Any idea how long it had been? I'm guessing more that the factory recommended 1 year )?
3. Use Green Grease (Omni Lubes). It's a synthetic, they have it at Advance Auto, and it will outlast any of the winch greases by a considerable margin (Practical Sailor Testing). The key is to use a good synthetic--they don't dry out like conventional grease because volatility is much lower and oxidation resistance is much higher. You can bet the last lub was not modern!
   
4. Lubing the pawls is an interesting topic I'm currently researching (testing). Barlow recommend light oil, but there is not chance of that lasting more than a year (light oils evaporate, like diesel--slow but steady). Several (Anderson and Antal) recommend light grease. Some testing suggests the right answer might be a 75W gear oil. It's not like they are watch movement pawls.

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Here's a few pic's. I can only imagine how long it's been!! If the owner before me then prob, if my accurate assumption is close maybe 20 years .......

 

[LANCE ON CLOUD NINE]

I see, yes, your internals are different than mine. Nice job. Hang in there!

 

[thinwater]

Here's a few pic's. I can only imagine how long it's been!! If the owner before me then prob, if my accurate assumption is close maybe 20 years .......

And yet there is no scoring on the drum and the pawl sockets look reasonably good. As a rule, mast winches arn't used that much, not like sheet winches.

Clean it up, lube it, and I would replace the springs if you can (if they aren't broken, they are ready to break).

 

[fourwhitesocks]

Thanks! I have the proper lube and oil, I got a whole kit that comes with new springs too so, need to get them (took my cabin top one off too so I can rebed it) cleaned up and put back together before I forget how they go back together :/

On a side note the day we pulled them off it was 5 degrees at my marina !
Appreciate the help and comments!!