Barberhauler Questions - (To Help Me Decide if To Rig)

[rardiH36]

Hi:

I have searched the archive and found some good references about barberhaulers; including Don's recount about being on a friend's boat for a race. They hadn't been doing too well. On a close haul leg, Don suggested (with some protest from the owner) to rig a barberhauler to the jib. The boat then gained on and passed some others.

All the info is useful, but I have some specific questions that might be useful to know before I rig one for myself. First the situation and then the questions:

- My existing jib sheet lead "track" is the toe rail. Jib sheets are led outside of the shrouds. The shrouds enter the deck only a few inches from the toe rail. I'm not a racer and am not inclined to install an inside track.

- I've got a masthead rig.

- The clew of jib I am using currently (about 90%) extends back to just forward of the forward shroud. The foot rakes upward from the tack. The clew height is about 4.5 feet from the base of the mast.

- The lowest reach of the adjustable spinnaker pole track mounted on the forward side of the mast is about 4.0 feet up from the base of the mast. I don't use a spinnaker.

- My thought is to run a barberhauler line from the clew, to a block mounted on the masts' spinnaker track at is lowest position, down to a mast-base block, then through a spare deck organizer sheave and back to the cockpit. Being run forward of the mast, one line can serve for both port and starboard tacks without untying and retying for each tack.

- This barberhauler configuration would pull the clew towards the center line at a perpenducular angle, so it wouldn't add much forward or aftward bias to sail shape which will be controlled mainly from from the jibsheet tension. With no wind against the jib, and the jib sheet tight, the barberhauler would pull the clew about 9" further to the centerline without a barberhualer. (At this point the jibsheet can't move towards center any further due to the shroud.) The barberhauler would pull the clew more than 9" towards the centerline when stronger wind conditions would otherwise force the clew further outboard.

Questions:

1) Given this configuration, will I get a few more degrees pointing ability? And when almost close-hauled, (but not "max-hauled"), will I likely see some improvement in speed?

2) Running the barberhauler line to a spot about 4 feet up from the mast base would add some sideways bending force to the mast. I think that the mast is more than strong enough to withstand, but if anyone sees danger, please speak up.

3) What are the practical considerations of using (or not) a barberhauler in day-to-day sailing?

Thanks for any input.

rardi

 

[Joe]

The goal is to change the sheeting angle without moving the jib lead inboard and still be able to trim your sails. I don't think your proposed set up will allow that.

1. don't attach barber hauler to clew
2. build two rigs, one for each side
3. jib sheets are run through lead blocks on barber hauler
4. locate the barber hauler so it's lead block will be a few feet forward of the jib lead and just above the life lines.
5. you should still be able to trim the sheet normally.
6. you do not have to remove the jib sheet from the barber hauler when you tack... the sheet will simply run through the block.
7. If the shrouds interfere, consider a second set of sheets for barberhauling run inside the shrouds that could be easily connected for the sail.

 

[sailingdog]

If the jib is so small, why not mount in-board jib tracks or a fairlead block on the cabin top. That would give you far better sheeting angles and improve your pointing ability and probably eliminate the need for a barberhauler. You could even mount a small piece of curved track and use a single sheet and make the jib self-tacking—similar to what is found on a Sonar, and similar to what is shown in this drawing.

image courtesy of harken.com

 

[Don Guillette]

Let's start with the basics of why you would want to use a barberhauler in the first place. It has to do with the placement of your fairleads track - either inboard or outboard. The track placement affects sail angle and twist.

To keep it simple lets just talk about sailing closehauled. When sailing closehauled you would want to use the inboard tracks. Why do you want to use the inboard tracks? The reason is that due to the angle of attack from those tracks you can point higher and go faster. Suppose you don't have inboard tracks as was the case with my Catalina30 and the Newport30 I was racing on that Rardi referred to. The solution to the closehauled problem and a few other situations is a barberhauler or cross haul.

I try to keep things as simple as possable and here is how I used a barberhauler on my C30.I merely attached a short piece of line to the jib sheet by means of a sliding knot similiar to the one you used to tie up your tent line when you were a girl or boy scout. This sliding knot allows me to position the knot on the jib sheet wherever i want it. I then just ran it over to the lazy winch and adjusted accordingly. It was very quick to disconnect when tacking.

When used correctly you can pick up 1 knot of speed in light winds and chop. On the Newport30 I merely hooked the barberhauler to the jib sheet and while sitting on the cabin top just cranked it in.

Some folks may not know the background of the term barberhauler. It is named after 2 brothers named Barber who used to sail against Dennis Conner. Both brothers became dentists in San diego and Dennis Connor is one of their patients.

The bottom line is not to go to great lengths to set up your barberhauler or cross haul system. Keep it simple.

One more point - here's my rule. SPEED FIRST AND POINTING SECOND". You want to improve pointing but not at a sacrifice of speed. Keep your speed up as you try to point higher. At the first sign of losing speed drop back to your previous fastest position.

 

[rardiH36]

Thanks to all three of you for your considered and undoubtedly very time intensive informative responses. It's all helping but maybe its my lack of seeing it in action that leaves me with some more doubt:

-Don: I can see the simplicity and the mechanical effectiveness of the cross haul arrangement you describe. However in my case, duration of a typical close haul leg in central SF Bay (almost all of my sailing) is typically a rather short appx 15 minutes or less, often under moderate to strong winds conditions, and most often with only one person on board (me). So going on a heeling deck to set a sliding knot on the leeward jib sheet, leading it to a cross haul point, adjusting, then at the end of the close haul run, going forward to untie switch over for the next tack, I'm thinking won't be handy enough for me to use as a normal sail trim feature. Being that my jib sheet track is the toe rail and I can attach the lead blocks anywhere along it (the blocks are snap shackle types), I can control the twist aspect that way. I guess my question is: Is the set-up I am thinking about likely to add some beneficial sail control, or should I remain satisfied with the way my boat currently is set up? I was hoping that routing a barber hauler line from clew to mast at an attach point appx perpendicular to the clew's height and horizontal stretch, to mast base, to deck organizer, and then to cockpit was reasonably simple. All the blocks and fittings and the line are in my second-hand paraphenalia locker. So cost is zero. Set-up time certainly under an hour. Once installed, I would pull on the line to bring the sail closer to center-line. A multi purpose cabin top winch could be used and a free cleat is already nearby. I would let the line slack when on a reach or sailing downwind. As you mention, I had observed that currently my boat perform better when easing off a bit from max close haul. The extra speed I think more than offsets the lost geography. When I'm off the wind a bit, my boat keeps up well with other boats of the same appx size and sail area that are also on the same course. But these other boats also seem to get better close haul speed and point better than I do. I observe that the jib sheets on most of these boats are led through inside tracks. Hence my desire to give the barber hauler idea a try.

- SailingDog: I sail a lot and I would like to improve my boat's performance where possible. But I would need to very be confident of a significant performance boost before contemplatinng installing new tracks, which also would mean cutting access holes into my interior liner for backing plates/fender washers. I also have to recognize that I don't have a racing boat. Just a 1980 heavy FRP lay-up cruiser with a shallow shoal keel. Even with new hi-tech tracks, probably it would never point as well as a performance boat (but I can dream?).

-Joe: I can visualize your set-up. Maybe to consider as time goes by. Couple of questions: 1) Is connecting a barber hualer line to the clew a bad idea? If so why? 2) For the barber hauler blocks through which the jib sheets are run, if I have visualized correctly, it would seem that these are suspended of the deck by the tension of the jib sheet. For the slack windward sheet and when both the jib sheets are slack during a tack, will the blocks be be loose around the deck? How to prevent?

Good info all. Thanks

 

[RichH]

Rardi -
the usage of barberhaulers, especially when using a less than 100% LP jib/genoa, is easy and effective.
The set-up can be a easy as it only requires an adjustable line that is attached 'somewhat' parallel to the horizon (for trimming ease) and attached 'anywhere' to the jib sheet between the clew and the fairlead - does not have to be attached to the clew. If the barberhauler isnt parallel to the horizon and perpendicular to the boats centerline, then you may need to also finely adjust the fore/aft position of the fairlead when barberhauling.

The best response will be in light winds, where the 'opening of the slot' is minimal. Set up you mainsail, starting with as minimal luff (halyard) tension as possible - this will allow the luff section of the mainsail to become somewhat flat which will allow the slot to be as small as possible. After the sails are shaped and trimmed to perfection (all tell tales streaming perfectly) AND usually the 'second from the top' mainsail batten parallel to the boat's centerline .... haul and or ease the barberhauler while watching the speedometer. The correct in/out will be at the highest attainable boat speed. If using a GPS a much better/efficient way to barberhaul (when beating) is use the VMG function set to some waypoint (mark) well in front of the boat; barberhaul in/out based on the highest VMG (velocity made good) to that 'mark'.

As the windspeed increases, the barberhauler goes 'out', windspeed decreases the barberhauler comes 'in'.
Barberhauling 'in' may induce the luff section of the mainsail to 'backwind' a bit (backwinding is NOT what is happening but since many authors erroneously use this term I will use it also). Ignore any apparent 'backwinding' but adjust the barberhauler in/out until you get *maximum* speed/VMG. Sometimes when barberhauling you will develop a large section of main being 'backwinded' by the jib ... and if the sail is correctly barberhauled the boatspeed will be faster (higher VMG) than without barberhauling. An alternative/correction if the main is radically 'backwinding' is to increase the jibhalyard tension - allows the jib leach to 'open' a wee bit (the jib leech moves farther from the mainsail, which 'opens' the slot a wee bit) which in turn will cause the apparent 'backwinding' to reduce; but, you do this halyard correction while watching the speedo/gps.

Most important 'benchmark' when trimming via a barberhauler is maximum boat speed/VMG (and sometimes ignoring any 'backwinding' in the mainsail).

 

[rardiH36]

RichH:

The barber hauler line routing that I have described for my boat does meet the “parallel to the horizon” and “perpendicular to the boat's centerline” criteria you have cited. With this, I think that you've added some confirmation to my rationale that pulling in on my barber hauler line will not add much up/down/fore/aft bias to the control of the sail shape. The tension of the jib sheets and where on the toe rail I’ve positioned the blocks still will be the primary determinant of this. Being routed approximately perpendicular, the barber hauler line should only pull the sheet more towards the centerline than otherwise possible with my outside toe rail jib sheet setup.

Also, appreciate the trimming tips, which will help a lot as I experiment.

I'm keen now to give it a go ... BUT NOT TODAY because of the following marine forecast for the SF Bay area:

GALE FORCE WINDS WILL PRODUCE HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS THROUGH TONIGHT... .HIGH PRESSURE OVER THE EASTERN PACIFIC COMBINED WITH LOW PRESSURE OVER THE DESERT SOUTHWEST WEST WILL RESULT IN A STRONG PRESSURE GRADIENT. AS A RESULT...GALE FORCE WINDS WILL PERSIST OVER THE COASTAL WATERS TODAY AND TONIGHT PRODUCING VERY HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. MARINERS VENTURING OUT TODAY AND TONIGHT SHOULD USE EXTREME CAUTION.

 

[RichH]

"Being routed approximately perpendicular, the barber hauler line should only pull the sheet more towards the centerline than otherwise possible with my outside toe rail jib sheet setup. "

Yup, in the worst case you may have to move the fairleads a bit to maintain perfect sail trim and shape, etc. .... of course the tell tales are your best indicator.

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

While 'surfing' this thread I came to wonder if a swivel block placed centerline near the mast base(V21) or on the mast with the line led aft would work for my rig while still keeping the jib sheets outside the shrouds(eased, of course) as the simplest centerline hauler. Perhaps having the sailmaker put in a reinforced grommet a few inches ahead of the sheet grommet would work, or would I have to enlarge the grommet to allow for the barberhaul line to maintain sail shape on my barely 100% jib. Would this make my masthead rig more likely to sail at least a little on jib alone? I would have to make the line extra long since it's a furling jib...