Ballast Valve

[Doug Nowell]

Having it stuck last year I took it out over the winter. It was extremely corroded even though I sail in fresh water. The rod that passes through the tank was maybe only half its thickness in places due to corrosion. The repair was cheap and easy - take the old valve out, take to stainless steel fabricator who replaced the rod with a top quality stainless steel replacement and also the locating pin as he reckoned that they were both "cheap" as he put it - the bottom plate was fine! Cost in the UK was £20 sterling (compared to about £60 sterling for a replacement plus shipping) Better than new now!

 

[Ray Bowles]

Well Done, But do you have any idea of what

caused the corrosion? The water in the tank would have to be way, way far off in Ph value to do this and I doubt that. Is it possible that you have some real bad electrical problems in your marina? Could this be galvanic corrosion rather that water caused corrosion? If it is a water ballasted Hunter the tank valve is the only internal metal in contact with the water other than your OB. How is the zink on that?RayS/V Speedy

 

[Tom]

Chlorine?

Chlorine will corrode SS, are you using that to prevent ballast tank growth? I have used about 1/2 gallon in my 260, but haven't noticed any effect on the valve hardware.Fair winds...Tom

 

[Doug Nowell]

Not a clue!!

I put about 2/3 cups of bleach into the ballast - just enough to stop that awful smell that develops. The outboard was fine, but I keep it tilted out of the water .... I'll have a look at the end of this season and see what has happened.