Last summer, I lost my keel when the cable got caught up and couldn't be unfouled. So I have since found a homemade racing keel that was build and set up for a V21. I modified the keel so that it would fit my Mac25. It is coated in Por15 and West System faired and epoxied. I estimate the weight to be around 400 lbs but I have no way to be sure. I understand the Mac 25 keel is supposed to be 600 lbs. I have taken my boat out twice since rebuilding and installing the keel with little problem, except i'm scared to push it too fast and tight because of the list. I remember previously pushing it to the edge and it being fine, but now I'm afraid of possibly capsizing. Before I push my boat too far, i'd like to know your opinions: Does the estimated ballast(400lbs) of this keel make it unsafe for me to sail hard in my Mac25 or am I just being too hesitant? Thanks. Dave
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Not good
Get the proper keel as soon as possible. Any machine shop can cut you a piece of steel plate to size, then if you don't know how, any boat repair place can slap on some glass to make it into a foil shape. To be safest you need that extra weight. It was designed for 600 lbs down deep and that's what it really needs for stability. Consider the consequences of any accident, and your liability for making changes, in both real terms of loss of lie or property damage, but also lawsuits that follow such things.
Get the proper keel as soon as possible. Any machine shop can cut you a piece of steel plate to size, then if you don't know how, any boat repair place can slap on some glass to make it into a foil shape. To be safest you need that extra weight. It was designed for 600 lbs down deep and that's what it really needs for stability. Consider the consequences of any accident, and your liability for making changes, in both real terms of loss of lie or property damage, but also lawsuits that follow such things.
got to be an interesting story
You have to post it sometime. I figure Mac designed these boats using a minimum in mind for cost and simplicity, so I figure the orig. 625# keel was a minimum that he figured. Your boat would be 30% more tipy or tender than was the orig. design. On the other hand, by adding a crew of about 200# your about equal, but here's what I think. I would love it if my boat had a 1000# keel because it would be stiffer and I wouldn't have to reef etc. so soon and I would feel safer as well. 1200# would even be better, 2000# I'd feel even safer, I'd never have to reef but I'd probably sail like a rock. Conversly, if I had a 400# keel, I would sail more conservedly, reefing in lighter conditions than with 600#. Your boat by its width and weight is plenty stable in anything (almost) if you don't fly too much sail, and if your boat did capsize, it won't sink if the factory foam is in there, so you can just up it and go (yea uh huh). I would check around though and see if someone could weld a 125# chunk of steel on it so that I would feel better, or why not 400 more # ?
You have to post it sometime. I figure Mac designed these boats using a minimum in mind for cost and simplicity, so I figure the orig. 625# keel was a minimum that he figured. Your boat would be 30% more tipy or tender than was the orig. design. On the other hand, by adding a crew of about 200# your about equal, but here's what I think. I would love it if my boat had a 1000# keel because it would be stiffer and I wouldn't have to reef etc. so soon and I would feel safer as well. 1200# would even be better, 2000# I'd feel even safer, I'd never have to reef but I'd probably sail like a rock. Conversly, if I had a 400# keel, I would sail more conservedly, reefing in lighter conditions than with 600#. Your boat by its width and weight is plenty stable in anything (almost) if you don't fly too much sail, and if your boat did capsize, it won't sink if the factory foam is in there, so you can just up it and go (yea uh huh). I would check around though and see if someone could weld a 125# chunk of steel on it so that I would feel better, or why not 400 more # ?
Different strokes...
Hmm, here I am, thinking of how to add weight and a moveable wing to my V-21 keel so I can change over to a Squared Main and Turbo the boat.
Hmm, here I am, thinking of how to add weight and a moveable wing to my V-21 keel so I can change over to a Squared Main and Turbo the boat.
keel weight
So, now that the box has been opened---what is the proper weight I should be carrying on my 22? And, didn't I get the idea that another 100 lbs in addition to stock would be better? I nhave the lead---and/or steel for welding on. Thanks.
So, now that the box has been opened---what is the proper weight I should be carrying on my 22? And, didn't I get the idea that another 100 lbs in addition to stock would be better? I nhave the lead---and/or steel for welding on. Thanks.
keel weight
Steve, your orig k. w. would be 500#. Adding a 100 would be cool but what about clearence when you raise it? I think it would be good because less heel with higher power but it would be a little harder to upcrank.
Steve, your orig k. w. would be 500#. Adding a 100 would be cool but what about clearence when you raise it? I think it would be good because less heel with higher power but it would be a little harder to upcrank.
ballast
I've been thinking along the same lines as CharlieCobra... how can I add more weight and get more righting moment? I bought a bunch of lead ingots at a flea market, with the intention of usign modeling clay to create a prototype then creating a mold and casting the lead into it. Well, then I lost motivation, so I did nothing. But I agree with Gary as well; adding more weight to the keel might make it a lot harder to crank up. So what I am thinking now is to just put more weight in the bottom of the hull, around where the pivot bolt attaches. So more like classic ballast than added keel weight. If you want to tame the motion of your boat, take even more weight and add it further out from the pivot bolt and it will increase the rotational inertia of the boat. So you'll pitch less, but also be a little slower to turn.
I've been thinking along the same lines as CharlieCobra... how can I add more weight and get more righting moment? I bought a bunch of lead ingots at a flea market, with the intention of usign modeling clay to create a prototype then creating a mold and casting the lead into it. Well, then I lost motivation, so I did nothing. But I agree with Gary as well; adding more weight to the keel might make it a lot harder to crank up. So what I am thinking now is to just put more weight in the bottom of the hull, around where the pivot bolt attaches. So more like classic ballast than added keel weight. If you want to tame the motion of your boat, take even more weight and add it further out from the pivot bolt and it will increase the rotational inertia of the boat. So you'll pitch less, but also be a little slower to turn.
OK, here's an idea
If you guys really want to experiment with ballast due what the old guys did. Add weight with sand bags n the bottom of the cabin. I know it's not where yoou want it but it won't hurt your boat and you'll experience the fact of more weight at least near the pivot point. Steve P. If you can't find sand bags try softener salt bags, then you can use the salt later.
If you guys really want to experiment with ballast due what the old guys did. Add weight with sand bags n the bottom of the cabin. I know it's not where yoou want it but it won't hurt your boat and you'll experience the fact of more weight at least near the pivot point. Steve P. If you can't find sand bags try softener salt bags, then you can use the salt later.
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