removehtml]I reciently bought a Catalina 270LE. The split backstays were pressing on the outboard side of vertical membors of the sternrails (port and starboard). I moved the backstays to the inboard side of the sternrail posts and they are better but still touch. Is this a common problem? I'm considering adding a backstay tensioner to pull the split backstays closer together. Is there a simpler solution?Error: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
backstay/sternrail interference
- Thread starter Capn Bill
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No, not even close
Hi Rick, Thanks for the input. No, on my boat (Catalina 270 with a walk-thru transom) the chain plates for the backstays are on the scoop stern. I have to go out onto the swim platform to adjust the trunbuckels. In your picture the chain plates seem to be on the transom and you can apparently adjust the turnbuckels from the cockpit. It's surprising to see so much variation. Bill
Hi Rick, Thanks for the input. No, on my boat (Catalina 270 with a walk-thru transom) the chain plates for the backstays are on the scoop stern. I have to go out onto the swim platform to adjust the trunbuckels. In your picture the chain plates seem to be on the transom and you can apparently adjust the turnbuckels from the cockpit. It's surprising to see so much variation. Bill
270LE backstay
I have a 270 and , yes, they do rub a little. This is normal unless it is so tight that it is cutting into the lines or tubes. Is your mast swept too far forward maybe?
I have a 270 and , yes, they do rub a little. This is normal unless it is so tight that it is cutting into the lines or tubes. Is your mast swept too far forward maybe?
Inboard or Outboard?
Hi Ken, Thanks for your input. It helps to know I'm not the only one. The backstays had been rubbing on the outboard side sternrail posts enough to scuff up the finish. Are your backstays on the inboard or outboard side of the nearest sternrail tube? I haven't had a chance to check for weather helm or do any rig tuning yet but the mast seems straight fore-and-aft, or maybe just ever-so-slightly raked forward at the top. When I moved the backstays to the inboard side of the stern rail tube the turnbuckles both bottomed out on the chainplate end before I got much tension in the backstay. There was still about 1/2" of range on the backstay end. I had started them with three turns on the chainplate end. The next time I'm at the boat I gonna take the turnbuckles apart again and start them with several turns on the backstay end to hopefully get more tension in the backstay. It's hard to tell, but it looks like I may get more clearance between the split backstays and the sternrails if I increase the backstay tension some. (I could also get less!) I will definately get more clearence if I add one of those backstay adjusters that pulls the split backstays together to increase tension. It would also help to shorten the split backstays and lengthen the upper backstay but that would probably be more trouble than adding a tension adjuster. Has anyone added a backstay tension adjuster to a 270?
Hi Ken, Thanks for your input. It helps to know I'm not the only one. The backstays had been rubbing on the outboard side sternrail posts enough to scuff up the finish. Are your backstays on the inboard or outboard side of the nearest sternrail tube? I haven't had a chance to check for weather helm or do any rig tuning yet but the mast seems straight fore-and-aft, or maybe just ever-so-slightly raked forward at the top. When I moved the backstays to the inboard side of the stern rail tube the turnbuckles both bottomed out on the chainplate end before I got much tension in the backstay. There was still about 1/2" of range on the backstay end. I had started them with three turns on the chainplate end. The next time I'm at the boat I gonna take the turnbuckles apart again and start them with several turns on the backstay end to hopefully get more tension in the backstay. It's hard to tell, but it looks like I may get more clearance between the split backstays and the sternrails if I increase the backstay tension some. (I could also get less!) I will definately get more clearence if I add one of those backstay adjusters that pulls the split backstays together to increase tension. It would also help to shorten the split backstays and lengthen the upper backstay but that would probably be more trouble than adding a tension adjuster. Has anyone added a backstay tension adjuster to a 270?
Thanks for the photo
Hi Ted, Thanks for the photo. A picture is worth 1000 words! I can clearly see that your starbord backstay bridle passes on the outboard side of the sternrail post. It also looks like you have shroud covers on the backstay bridles. Good idea. I seem to have less interfearence when the backstay bridles pass on the inboard sides of the sternrail posts. It looks like my backstay may be a little short but it's hard to measuresince the two backstay bridles are so long. Could you define or describe a "johnson" type adjuster?
Hi Ted, Thanks for the photo. A picture is worth 1000 words! I can clearly see that your starbord backstay bridle passes on the outboard side of the sternrail post. It also looks like you have shroud covers on the backstay bridles. Good idea. I seem to have less interfearence when the backstay bridles pass on the inboard sides of the sternrail posts. It looks like my backstay may be a little short but it's hard to measuresince the two backstay bridles are so long. Could you define or describe a "johnson" type adjuster?
Sure Bill, The Johnson devices are two plates
with the appropriate sheves for the bridles that fit the apex of the bridle, I'll add a link to the defender page with them. You still would have to rig a 4 or 5 to one downhaul that you would have to split also to provide for a direct downward pull. It's a little more compact then rigging your own from a couple blocks with wire sheaves etc. I do keep fresh covers on which helps, I've found that leaving a flag flying from one of the backstays at night is a good way to lose sleep, turns the backstays to guitar strings and the aft cabin into a sound chamber.
with the appropriate sheves for the bridles that fit the apex of the bridle, I'll add a link to the defender page with them. You still would have to rig a 4 or 5 to one downhaul that you would have to split also to provide for a direct downward pull. It's a little more compact then rigging your own from a couple blocks with wire sheaves etc. I do keep fresh covers on which helps, I've found that leaving a flag flying from one of the backstays at night is a good way to lose sleep, turns the backstays to guitar strings and the aft cabin into a sound chamber.
backstay adjuster....
no matter what, you should install some type of backstay adjuster. It's an important sail trim element. The Johnson adjuster car coupled with a block and tackle tensioner will be the most economical method. I suggest you peruse the various hardware manufacturer catalogues to see the many types of systems availiable. Not sure if you realize but backstay adjuster systems are common upgrades available from the Catalina factory. You might give them a call for their input. http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d36000/e33113.asp
no matter what, you should install some type of backstay adjuster. It's an important sail trim element. The Johnson adjuster car coupled with a block and tackle tensioner will be the most economical method. I suggest you peruse the various hardware manufacturer catalogues to see the many types of systems availiable. Not sure if you realize but backstay adjuster systems are common upgrades available from the Catalina factory. You might give them a call for their input. http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d36000/e33113.asp
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