Backstay replacement
- Thread starter BobM
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Thanks to all for the advice. We failed on our initial attempt as we didn't note that the (damned) fixed topping lift was wrapped around the main halyard we were using to hoist the chair. So I'll add "inspect the mast head with binoculars" to the to do list for others in the future. There was just two of us and it got too late with us too tired to continue.
In addition, if you lack self-tailing winches, having a third person to tail, especially if you are using a wimpy little Lewmar 7 on the cabin top like we were, was a huge help. We switched off twice and it was no problem.
We had the mast secured by the fixed topping lift to the boom end, and the aft traveler's main sheet taught. We also led the jib halyard around the spreaders aft and secured it by clipping the wire halyard to an anchor line, running it as far aft as possible, through a block on the toe rail forward to the primary winch. We winched it snug and cleated it off. Once the climber go to the spreaders, he tied off a 1/2 inch line and we ran that to the other primary in a similar fashion and cranked it snug. Any shackles we used were tapped and had a back-up shackle to boot. When he got to the top he asked us to snug things up a little more so we did so. We used the main halyard to haul him up with the spinnaker halyard as a safety line. With two people on deck it was easy to ensure that the safety line was always taught. No doubt the other days practice helped a lot too. Another piece of advice might be to try your approach out with a bucket of water or something before sending a person up. Communication can be challenging if it is even slightly windy, so it pays to work out some signals beforehand.
When he was at the top we loosened the turnbuckle below, but ultimately had to detach it to give him enough space in the mast head to get the pin out up top. He then pulled up the new one on a line we had provided him, pinned it in and then let to old stay down on that line. He was up and down in about 15 minutes. We had set up a plumb bob to the gooseneck and marked the deck with tape to allow us to ballpark the rake. We then rough cut the stay, checked it then did the final cut with a 32 tooth/inch hacksaw in a jib I had made up. Installing the stalok was a piece of cake. We snugged everything up, cleaned up and left. It took about an hour and a half from start to finish.
In addition, if you lack self-tailing winches, having a third person to tail, especially if you are using a wimpy little Lewmar 7 on the cabin top like we were, was a huge help. We switched off twice and it was no problem.
We had the mast secured by the fixed topping lift to the boom end, and the aft traveler's main sheet taught. We also led the jib halyard around the spreaders aft and secured it by clipping the wire halyard to an anchor line, running it as far aft as possible, through a block on the toe rail forward to the primary winch. We winched it snug and cleated it off. Once the climber go to the spreaders, he tied off a 1/2 inch line and we ran that to the other primary in a similar fashion and cranked it snug. Any shackles we used were tapped and had a back-up shackle to boot. When he got to the top he asked us to snug things up a little more so we did so. We used the main halyard to haul him up with the spinnaker halyard as a safety line. With two people on deck it was easy to ensure that the safety line was always taught. No doubt the other days practice helped a lot too. Another piece of advice might be to try your approach out with a bucket of water or something before sending a person up. Communication can be challenging if it is even slightly windy, so it pays to work out some signals beforehand.
When he was at the top we loosened the turnbuckle below, but ultimately had to detach it to give him enough space in the mast head to get the pin out up top. He then pulled up the new one on a line we had provided him, pinned it in and then let to old stay down on that line. He was up and down in about 15 minutes. We had set up a plumb bob to the gooseneck and marked the deck with tape to allow us to ballpark the rake. We then rough cut the stay, checked it then did the final cut with a 32 tooth/inch hacksaw in a jib I had made up. Installing the stalok was a piece of cake. We snugged everything up, cleaned up and left. It took about an hour and a half from start to finish.
How did you know what length backstay to bring with you?
It's going to take me 2 trips because I have to have the old one to make a new one.
It's going to take me 2 trips because I have to have the old one to make a new one.
They cut it themselves with a hacksaw and applied a Norseman type fitting to the end.
Hermit if you go to the Catalina 30 owner's website you'll find a table with all the rigging dimensions for the boat. Typically, the stay will have a marine eye on the upper end and a threaded stud on the lower. You could order the new wire with the upper end (eye) sweged on... ballpark the length... hook it up.. then cut to fit the lower end for a norseman type fitting.
The manual for my boat provides the length at 41' 10" however, I didn't want to count on that exact length. I knew that the connection up top was a marine eye with a 1/2 inch clevis pin and for 1/4 inch rigging. I had Rigging Only make me up the stay with that swag completed for the top 43 feet long. I checked the mast rake and made minor adjustments before changing the stay and then used my plumb bob to ensure that I had the mast in the right ball park again before rough cutting the length. This is a must because it is tough to eyeball things clearly until the length is close. It wasn't too hard as turnbuckle gives you about four inches of play. We ended up just about right. There is about an inch of adjustment left in the turnbuckle.
I suggest you too consider this approach, because it means only a single trip up the mast. Also, nearly every rigger will now go with mechanical fittings at the deck, rather than swages. However, if there is a rigger who can't make up a set of stays for a Catalina 30 in his sleep he/she is in the wrong business. I am sure they have those particular dimensions memorized.
I suggest you too consider this approach, because it means only a single trip up the mast. Also, nearly every rigger will now go with mechanical fittings at the deck, rather than swages. However, if there is a rigger who can't make up a set of stays for a Catalina 30 in his sleep he/she is in the wrong business. I am sure they have those particular dimensions memorized.
Using a cabintop winch is foolish
and as you've found out not very helpful.
Run the halyard to your jib farilead and use your jib sheet winches.
Good luck.
and as you've found out not very helpful.
Run the halyard to your jib farilead and use your jib sheet winches.
Good luck.
I tried to do that the first time Stu, but I would have had to remove the line from the clutch, which would have really freaked out the first climber. He insisted that we run the liine thorugh the closed clutches, for safety (even though we were running a second safety line that was always cleated off when the primary line was being adjusted). I was concerned it would chew up my line.
Through the clutch across the cabin top jammed the line against the hand rail. I thought about rigging a block to try to avoid it, but we opted to stick with the cabintop winch.
Through the clutch across the cabin top jammed the line against the hand rail. I thought about rigging a block to try to avoid it, but we opted to stick with the cabintop winch.
One thing I'd suggest, rather than using the mast mounted winches, is to use a turning block and lead the halyard to a genoa sheet winch. I wouldn't use the jib fairleads as the initial turning block, since they're likely not to be a very good lead from the halyard exit slot on the mast and will cause the halyard to rub and chafe quite a bit. Attaching a turning block to the mast step or base at the deck is really a much better idea IMHO.
If you're going to use a spinnaker snatch block to do this, make sure you tape the block's snap-shackle shut, so that it can't be opened without human intervention.
The slight increase in friction from using a turning block is minimal when compared to the advantages the larger genoa winch will give you. Most genoa winches are in the 30-40:1 range, rather than just 7:1 and most are self-tailing.
If you're going to use a spinnaker snatch block to do this, make sure you tape the block's snap-shackle shut, so that it can't be opened without human intervention.
The slight increase in friction from using a turning block is minimal when compared to the advantages the larger genoa winch will give you. Most genoa winches are in the 30-40:1 range, rather than just 7:1 and most are self-tailing.
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