As a new owner of a '89 Hunter 28, when I return to the moorage slip I am backing in to take advantage of the easy on/off access of the walk-thru transom. So far, backing out is much easier than backing in. I know that experience is the best teacher, but does anyone have a suggestion for making this backing-in process less stressful on the ole ticker?
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Wayne Estabrooks
Practice
Practice makes perfect. I back my 340 into its' slip because the finger pier is short and we would have to go forward to get off and on if we were bow in.It is easier to load and unload directly into the cockpit. We dont have floating docks as the normal tidal range is only a couple feet and is more wind related. In backing into the slip, we motor quite a ways past the slip, (We are between abother row of piers inside not on an outside slip so we cannot back straight into the slip) then we back up until we have some way on or momentum and then reducepower or usually take the engine out of gear to eliminate walking and just steer with the rudder. We back up until it looks like we are almost going past our slip then pivot 90 degrees and back straight in. The 340 pivots on the keel and we just miss the piling on the starboard side as we back past it. We have done it in a 20 knot crosswind which adds to the excitement. Janet picks up the lines off the piling on the windward side from the cockpit as we back past the piling and she walks them forward. I put the engine in forward to stop the boat movement and then neutral and retrieve a stern line with he boat hook and kill the engine. That is the way it is supposed to work and when we spend a couple of weeks on the boat docking each day the handling gets better. Next spring we learn all over again. I think one of the secrets is to take the engine out of gear once it is moving in reverse and just use the momentum of the boat to carry it in. Have boat hook and dock lines ready, check wind and current direction, review plan to make sure mate knows what to do prior to the actual event, and no yelling !
Practice makes perfect. I back my 340 into its' slip because the finger pier is short and we would have to go forward to get off and on if we were bow in.It is easier to load and unload directly into the cockpit. We dont have floating docks as the normal tidal range is only a couple feet and is more wind related. In backing into the slip, we motor quite a ways past the slip, (We are between abother row of piers inside not on an outside slip so we cannot back straight into the slip) then we back up until we have some way on or momentum and then reducepower or usually take the engine out of gear to eliminate walking and just steer with the rudder. We back up until it looks like we are almost going past our slip then pivot 90 degrees and back straight in. The 340 pivots on the keel and we just miss the piling on the starboard side as we back past it. We have done it in a 20 knot crosswind which adds to the excitement. Janet picks up the lines off the piling on the windward side from the cockpit as we back past the piling and she walks them forward. I put the engine in forward to stop the boat movement and then neutral and retrieve a stern line with he boat hook and kill the engine. That is the way it is supposed to work and when we spend a couple of weeks on the boat docking each day the handling gets better. Next spring we learn all over again. I think one of the secrets is to take the engine out of gear once it is moving in reverse and just use the momentum of the boat to carry it in. Have boat hook and dock lines ready, check wind and current direction, review plan to make sure mate knows what to do prior to the actual event, and no yelling !
T
Tom Ressler s/v Blowdacious
Backing up
If you are keeping your boat on the Columbia (like Tomahawk Bay), you're dealing with a pretty good current in the marina. You need to go well past your slip, stay slightly upstream of the center of the channel and pour the coals to it to get some steerage way in reverse. As soon as you have steerage, throttle back to an idle and glide toward your slip. If you have wheel steering, stand at the forward side of the pedestal facing aft and steer the boat like a car. Steer the boat into the slip giving it throttle as needed to maintain control. As you approach, go neutral then forward to slow the boat. I am assuming you are turning the stern into the current. It takes some practice but you can do it. Turning the stern downstream is easier. You can't use the propwalk as easily because you will probably turning the stern toward starboard but you have the current helping you. Get someone on the foredeck with a boathook to help fend you off the first couple of times and go practice in one of the rows that has a lot of empty slips (not H row if in Tomahawk). It takes a few tries to learn but the trick is NOT to baby the boat too much because the current will overcome the slower speeds.
If you are keeping your boat on the Columbia (like Tomahawk Bay), you're dealing with a pretty good current in the marina. You need to go well past your slip, stay slightly upstream of the center of the channel and pour the coals to it to get some steerage way in reverse. As soon as you have steerage, throttle back to an idle and glide toward your slip. If you have wheel steering, stand at the forward side of the pedestal facing aft and steer the boat like a car. Steer the boat into the slip giving it throttle as needed to maintain control. As you approach, go neutral then forward to slow the boat. I am assuming you are turning the stern into the current. It takes some practice but you can do it. Turning the stern downstream is easier. You can't use the propwalk as easily because you will probably turning the stern toward starboard but you have the current helping you. Get someone on the foredeck with a boathook to help fend you off the first couple of times and go practice in one of the rows that has a lot of empty slips (not H row if in Tomahawk). It takes a few tries to learn but the trick is NOT to baby the boat too much because the current will overcome the slower speeds.
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Rick Webb
I did this
I leave the sternlines at the end of the slip when I depart. When I back into the slip I just try to get the stern close enough that we can grab the lines and the walk us in using the lines. After a few less than stellar performances we were able to back it all the way in. Not all my approaches are perfect still but they are improving. Relax and develop your own technique. I learned along time ago not to laugh at another's missed approach as my turn for one was right around the corner. I believe it is a benefit to humble ourselves on occasion and chalk it up to a learning experience.
I leave the sternlines at the end of the slip when I depart. When I back into the slip I just try to get the stern close enough that we can grab the lines and the walk us in using the lines. After a few less than stellar performances we were able to back it all the way in. Not all my approaches are perfect still but they are improving. Relax and develop your own technique. I learned along time ago not to laugh at another's missed approach as my turn for one was right around the corner. I believe it is a benefit to humble ourselves on occasion and chalk it up to a learning experience.
J
Jay Hill
Install Safety Line
Until practice makes better and persistence makes perfect, you can install some safety/protective equipment in the slip. This will at least make you more comfortable with pulling into the slip without damaging your beloved boat. Here's some ideas: 1. Install plastic rub pads vertically on the pilings. 2. Install braided line between pier and piling on both sides of slip approximately 2/3 the height of freeboard. Don't use laid line as it will rub/damage gelcoat if the boat exerts pressure against the line. You can install this system either simple or complex. Simple is merely tying the line to both ends. Complex is tying a small line vertically on the piling and through a fender that has a hole through the long axis. Tie the safety line to the top end of the fender. Now you have a safety line that rises and falls with the tide. 3. Install hooks in the pilings to hold the bow lines. Install them near the top of the piling and pointed toward the pier so they never interfere with either the hull or standing rigging. This makes it much easier to grab the line with the boat hook and ensures you never leave a line in the water. 4. Use shock cords to connect the stern lines to the bow pilings when you leave similar to Rick's suggestion. Knowing you're not going to screw up your boat while getting the practice you need helps you concentrate on the manuevering of the boat and increases the speed at which you learn.
Until practice makes better and persistence makes perfect, you can install some safety/protective equipment in the slip. This will at least make you more comfortable with pulling into the slip without damaging your beloved boat. Here's some ideas: 1. Install plastic rub pads vertically on the pilings. 2. Install braided line between pier and piling on both sides of slip approximately 2/3 the height of freeboard. Don't use laid line as it will rub/damage gelcoat if the boat exerts pressure against the line. You can install this system either simple or complex. Simple is merely tying the line to both ends. Complex is tying a small line vertically on the piling and through a fender that has a hole through the long axis. Tie the safety line to the top end of the fender. Now you have a safety line that rises and falls with the tide. 3. Install hooks in the pilings to hold the bow lines. Install them near the top of the piling and pointed toward the pier so they never interfere with either the hull or standing rigging. This makes it much easier to grab the line with the boat hook and ensures you never leave a line in the water. 4. Use shock cords to connect the stern lines to the bow pilings when you leave similar to Rick's suggestion. Knowing you're not going to screw up your boat while getting the practice you need helps you concentrate on the manuevering of the boat and increases the speed at which you learn.
T
Tim
backing
My method: 1. Outside the marina, stop the boat and drive all the way in backwards. It helps the first few times to turn around and stand on the bow side of the wheel. Whenever you need to steer sharp to starboard, slow down the motor. DO NOT LET GO OF THE WHEEL. 2. Short of the slip but moving at more than enough speed to coast in, put the engine in slow idle forward, or neutral. Its the thrust of the prop that causes the prop walk so don't use much thrust. 3. Stop the boat with a little throttle. Messed up the landing? Just step to the usual side of the wheel and drive out.
My method: 1. Outside the marina, stop the boat and drive all the way in backwards. It helps the first few times to turn around and stand on the bow side of the wheel. Whenever you need to steer sharp to starboard, slow down the motor. DO NOT LET GO OF THE WHEEL. 2. Short of the slip but moving at more than enough speed to coast in, put the engine in slow idle forward, or neutral. Its the thrust of the prop that causes the prop walk so don't use much thrust. 3. Stop the boat with a little throttle. Messed up the landing? Just step to the usual side of the wheel and drive out.
B
Bruce Mulford
All of the above an practice practice practice
I agree with all of the above. I bought my 29.5 on 6/10/99 with a slip included that required backing in. With the season well underway there were lots of other owners around the dock. My first several approaches were apparently interesting to watch. The first one, I had three nearby boat owners rush to lend a hand so it must not have been pretty. The most important tip I can give is the safety line suggested above. I have it on the side of the slip my stern is pointed at as I back down and turn. Tie it high enough that you can easily grab it from the aft corner of the cockpit. A hard tug often is enough to get the rest of the way around the turn if needed. It took all season but by the end I could back in without touching any pilings. Boy does that feel good! Practice, practice, practice! (Wish the boat were in so I could sail, sail, sail.)
I agree with all of the above. I bought my 29.5 on 6/10/99 with a slip included that required backing in. With the season well underway there were lots of other owners around the dock. My first several approaches were apparently interesting to watch. The first one, I had three nearby boat owners rush to lend a hand so it must not have been pretty. The most important tip I can give is the safety line suggested above. I have it on the side of the slip my stern is pointed at as I back down and turn. Tie it high enough that you can easily grab it from the aft corner of the cockpit. A hard tug often is enough to get the rest of the way around the turn if needed. It took all season but by the end I could back in without touching any pilings. Boy does that feel good! Practice, practice, practice! (Wish the boat were in so I could sail, sail, sail.)
C
Colin Campbell
Walk round wheel
Have been using the method described by Tim that of walking round to the bow side of the wheel to face aft while backing up for many years, at all kinds of docks and in all kinds of boats, and it has always worked perfectly for me. Just practice a little first, and go into reverse well ahead of time.
Have been using the method described by Tim that of walking round to the bow side of the wheel to face aft while backing up for many years, at all kinds of docks and in all kinds of boats, and it has always worked perfectly for me. Just practice a little first, and go into reverse well ahead of time.
S
Stephen Ostrander
back to the future
All of the previous advice is good so I'm not going to rehash, just add the following: 1) My experience with Hunters (I've owned 2 now) is that they back very well compared to other boats. I've seen horror stories, and I've lived some, but always it was my fault, not the boat. 2) When you engage reverse gear, you've got to get the boat moving in the water so that there is water moving past the rudder which creates steerage. So I usually goose the throttle a little and then back it off, just to get some steerage. 3) The springline method that previous posts mentioned is a good option, but only if the people handling the lines know what they are doing. If I don't know that the person who offers to help me knows what they are doing, I politely decline because they can really mess you up otherwise.
All of the previous advice is good so I'm not going to rehash, just add the following: 1) My experience with Hunters (I've owned 2 now) is that they back very well compared to other boats. I've seen horror stories, and I've lived some, but always it was my fault, not the boat. 2) When you engage reverse gear, you've got to get the boat moving in the water so that there is water moving past the rudder which creates steerage. So I usually goose the throttle a little and then back it off, just to get some steerage. 3) The springline method that previous posts mentioned is a good option, but only if the people handling the lines know what they are doing. If I don't know that the person who offers to help me knows what they are doing, I politely decline because they can really mess you up otherwise.
R
Ron Hughes
My 2(k) cents on backing
Al, there is a lot of solid advice about backing into your slip in the previous posts. I hope my thoughts are helpful as well. In my opinion, there are four forces that act on the boat: Wind, Waves, Current, and Thrust (engine). One of those forces that I did not see mentioned previously is wind. Most Hunters will tend to point their bows down-wind if there isn't sufficient speed through the water to overcome that tendancy. Since this will almost always happen, it should be factored into your plan whenever you are in close quarters. The fact is, the boats' track and position in and through the water is the sum of all of the forces acting upon it. If, for example, you are trying to back into your slip from down-current, and the wind is blowing from the slip toward you(both wind and current pushing you away from the dock), the boat will want to keep itself in exactly the position you desire: stern pointed directly at the slip. All you need to do is slowly add power, just enough to overcome the current, and you will be able to back exactly where you want to by standing behind the wheel and making small corrections. In fact, if you adjust your speed through the water so that it just matches the current, you could remain what appears to be stopped next to a dock(you are still moving through the water which gives you steerage) and crab sideways by gently steering a tiny bit toward the dock. Almost like parallel parking! If the wind and current are opposite each other, the stronger of the two will win out and be the force you must overcome to get where you intend to go. Now, let's say your slip is down-current(if there were no wind and you stopped the boat next to it, you'd just float into the dock), you'd need good steerage speed through the water,(still in reverse) to maneuver properly into it. If there were an opposing breeze(current pushing you toward the dock, and wind blowing you away), you could count on the boats' tendancy to "flag" stern to the wind, to hold the bow away from the dock as you overcome the current with enough speed through it, and steer (probably moving faster than you'd really prefer) into your slip. Stopping safely in this situation requires a firm and accurate application of forward power and helm(practice away from danger). The most difficult situation in my experiance, is trying to enter the slip in reverse from both up-current, and up-wind. With both of the forces pushing your boat into the dock, you either must drive into the slip from a good distance away so as to have excellent speed for steerage, or you must stop the boat right in front of the slip in such an orientation to both wind and current that when a great deal of throttle is applied in reverse, the prop walk(usually to Port) will pull your stern the rest of the way to be aligned with the slip as you gain way(again you must have practiced beforehand). A Max-Prop, or other propeller that gives real bite in reverse helps greatly to get you moving well through the water in the shortest time. After you have gotten the boat moving fast enough to control it into the slip, you must just as quickly stop it where you want it to be. A quick rather large burst of thrust in forward gear should be able to stop you in proper position. I apologize for the length of this post, but trying to be as descriptive and understandable as possible took more words than I imagined. All good wishes, and may you always have the pleasure of stepping onto the dock from your very cool walk-thru transom! Ron
Al, there is a lot of solid advice about backing into your slip in the previous posts. I hope my thoughts are helpful as well. In my opinion, there are four forces that act on the boat: Wind, Waves, Current, and Thrust (engine). One of those forces that I did not see mentioned previously is wind. Most Hunters will tend to point their bows down-wind if there isn't sufficient speed through the water to overcome that tendancy. Since this will almost always happen, it should be factored into your plan whenever you are in close quarters. The fact is, the boats' track and position in and through the water is the sum of all of the forces acting upon it. If, for example, you are trying to back into your slip from down-current, and the wind is blowing from the slip toward you(both wind and current pushing you away from the dock), the boat will want to keep itself in exactly the position you desire: stern pointed directly at the slip. All you need to do is slowly add power, just enough to overcome the current, and you will be able to back exactly where you want to by standing behind the wheel and making small corrections. In fact, if you adjust your speed through the water so that it just matches the current, you could remain what appears to be stopped next to a dock(you are still moving through the water which gives you steerage) and crab sideways by gently steering a tiny bit toward the dock. Almost like parallel parking! If the wind and current are opposite each other, the stronger of the two will win out and be the force you must overcome to get where you intend to go. Now, let's say your slip is down-current(if there were no wind and you stopped the boat next to it, you'd just float into the dock), you'd need good steerage speed through the water,(still in reverse) to maneuver properly into it. If there were an opposing breeze(current pushing you toward the dock, and wind blowing you away), you could count on the boats' tendancy to "flag" stern to the wind, to hold the bow away from the dock as you overcome the current with enough speed through it, and steer (probably moving faster than you'd really prefer) into your slip. Stopping safely in this situation requires a firm and accurate application of forward power and helm(practice away from danger). The most difficult situation in my experiance, is trying to enter the slip in reverse from both up-current, and up-wind. With both of the forces pushing your boat into the dock, you either must drive into the slip from a good distance away so as to have excellent speed for steerage, or you must stop the boat right in front of the slip in such an orientation to both wind and current that when a great deal of throttle is applied in reverse, the prop walk(usually to Port) will pull your stern the rest of the way to be aligned with the slip as you gain way(again you must have practiced beforehand). A Max-Prop, or other propeller that gives real bite in reverse helps greatly to get you moving well through the water in the shortest time. After you have gotten the boat moving fast enough to control it into the slip, you must just as quickly stop it where you want it to be. A quick rather large burst of thrust in forward gear should be able to stop you in proper position. I apologize for the length of this post, but trying to be as descriptive and understandable as possible took more words than I imagined. All good wishes, and may you always have the pleasure of stepping onto the dock from your very cool walk-thru transom! Ron
R
Ron Hughes
My 2(k) cents on backing
Al, there is a lot of solid advice about backing into your slip in the previous posts. I hope my thoughts are helpful as well. In my opinion, there are four forces that act on the boat: Wind, Waves, Current, and Thrust (engine). One of those forces that I did not see mentioned previously is wind. Most Hunters will tend to point their bows down-wind if there isn't sufficient speed through the water to overcome that tendancy. Since this will almost always happen, it should be factored into your plan whenever you are in close quarters. The fact is, the boats' track and position in and through the water is the sum of all of the forces acting upon it. If, for example, you are trying to back into your slip from down-current, and the wind is blowing from the slip toward you(both wind and current pushing you away from the dock), the boat will want to keep itself in exactly the position you desire: stern pointed directly at the slip. All you need to do is slowly add power, just enough to overcome the current, and you will be able to back exactly where you want to by standing behind the wheel and making small corrections. In fact, if you adjust your speed through the water so that it just matches the current, you could remain what appears to be stopped next to a dock(you are still moving through the water which gives you steerage) and crab sideways by gently steering a tiny bit toward the dock. Almost like parallel parking! If the wind and current are opposite each other, the stronger of the two will win out and be the force you must overcome to get where you intend to go. Now, let's say your slip is down-current(if there were no wind and you stopped the boat next to it, you'd just float into the dock), you'd need good steerage speed through the water,(still in reverse) to maneuver properly into it. If there were an opposing breeze(current pushing you toward the dock, and wind blowing you away), you could count on the boats' tendancy to "flag" stern to the wind, to hold the bow away from the dock as you overcome the current with enough speed through it, and steer (probably moving faster than you'd really prefer) into your slip. Stopping safely in this situation requires a firm and accurate application of forward power and helm(practice away from danger). The most difficult situation in my experiance, is trying to enter the slip in reverse from both up-current, and up-wind. With both of the forces pushing your boat into the dock, you either must drive into the slip from a good distance away so as to have excellent speed for steerage, or you must stop the boat right in front of the slip in such an orientation to both wind and current that when a great deal of throttle is applied in reverse, the prop walk(usually to Port) will pull your stern the rest of the way to be aligned with the slip as you gain way(again you must have practiced beforehand). A Max-Prop, or other propeller that gives real bite in reverse helps greatly to get you moving well through the water in the shortest time. After you have gotten the boat moving fast enough to control it into the slip, you must just as quickly stop it where you want it to be. A quick rather large burst of thrust in forward gear should be able to stop you in proper position. I apologize for the length of this post, but trying to be as descriptive and understandable as possible took more words than I imagined. All good wishes, and may you always have the pleasure of stepping onto the dock from your very cool walk-thru transom! Ron
Al, there is a lot of solid advice about backing into your slip in the previous posts. I hope my thoughts are helpful as well. In my opinion, there are four forces that act on the boat: Wind, Waves, Current, and Thrust (engine). One of those forces that I did not see mentioned previously is wind. Most Hunters will tend to point their bows down-wind if there isn't sufficient speed through the water to overcome that tendancy. Since this will almost always happen, it should be factored into your plan whenever you are in close quarters. The fact is, the boats' track and position in and through the water is the sum of all of the forces acting upon it. If, for example, you are trying to back into your slip from down-current, and the wind is blowing from the slip toward you(both wind and current pushing you away from the dock), the boat will want to keep itself in exactly the position you desire: stern pointed directly at the slip. All you need to do is slowly add power, just enough to overcome the current, and you will be able to back exactly where you want to by standing behind the wheel and making small corrections. In fact, if you adjust your speed through the water so that it just matches the current, you could remain what appears to be stopped next to a dock(you are still moving through the water which gives you steerage) and crab sideways by gently steering a tiny bit toward the dock. Almost like parallel parking! If the wind and current are opposite each other, the stronger of the two will win out and be the force you must overcome to get where you intend to go. Now, let's say your slip is down-current(if there were no wind and you stopped the boat next to it, you'd just float into the dock), you'd need good steerage speed through the water,(still in reverse) to maneuver properly into it. If there were an opposing breeze(current pushing you toward the dock, and wind blowing you away), you could count on the boats' tendancy to "flag" stern to the wind, to hold the bow away from the dock as you overcome the current with enough speed through it, and steer (probably moving faster than you'd really prefer) into your slip. Stopping safely in this situation requires a firm and accurate application of forward power and helm(practice away from danger). The most difficult situation in my experiance, is trying to enter the slip in reverse from both up-current, and up-wind. With both of the forces pushing your boat into the dock, you either must drive into the slip from a good distance away so as to have excellent speed for steerage, or you must stop the boat right in front of the slip in such an orientation to both wind and current that when a great deal of throttle is applied in reverse, the prop walk(usually to Port) will pull your stern the rest of the way to be aligned with the slip as you gain way(again you must have practiced beforehand). A Max-Prop, or other propeller that gives real bite in reverse helps greatly to get you moving well through the water in the shortest time. After you have gotten the boat moving fast enough to control it into the slip, you must just as quickly stop it where you want it to be. A quick rather large burst of thrust in forward gear should be able to stop you in proper position. I apologize for the length of this post, but trying to be as descriptive and understandable as possible took more words than I imagined. All good wishes, and may you always have the pleasure of stepping onto the dock from your very cool walk-thru transom! Ron
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