Backfilling when healing

[mrtoyota]

I've has this boat for 8 months and still getting some of the kinks out..2 problems. First, there is an odor from the head area, the grocco toilet seems to back fill some when I'm docked. I pump the toilet dry and I check later and it is about half full. Is the fix to rebuild the toilet or replace the joker valve??
Second, The toilet overflows when healed over 25 to 30 degrees. The holding tank is in the v berth and the connection is on the starboard side (same as the toilet). I feel the connector moved to the center top of the tank would greatly improve the situation. Has anyone done that?? What parts did you use?? There is a fitting relocation kit from west marine. I also think that a true hull fitting would work ok . I have read in the forums that a vented loop would do the trick. My fear is because the tank is higher than the toilet, i might not br able to get the loop high enough .. Any thoughts???

 

[CharlieCobra]

Does it have a valve?

Mine does and it will backflow if the valve isn't closed on a hard heel.

 

[mrtoyota]

has valve

Yes, has a valve for the seawater intake, Yes, it was closed,.. the water backfeeding is not seawater any thoughts

 

[CharlieCobra]

Sounds like another valve in the system wouldn't hurt.

Then again, my boat doesn't have a holding tank so I'm not much help.

 

[Mick]

Backflow

The 'Joker' valve isn't designed to prevent back flow (only a 'flapper' type would). Based on your description I think you are on the right track to move the connection from the head to the tank. When you do relocate the connection try to incorporate a slight rise before the tank. Charlie Cobra's idea of a valve between the head and the tank would also work. It is probably impossible to pump the hose to the tank dry, and you should flush until there is clean water in the hose.

 

[Peggie Hall-HeadMistress]

Moving the inlet fitting is best solution to one of your problems...

And isn't that hard to do, thanks to a li'l gadget called the UniSeal http://www.aussieglobe.com/uniseal1.htm (scroll through ALL the pages to learn to use it and the price list). You can put it on the top of the tank--the best location--only IF you have at least 5" clearance about the top of the tank...if so, you'll need a PVC 90 to use as a hose fitting. If you don't have that much clearance, put it on the end, using a straight piece of PVC. Whether it's on the top or the end, put it as close to the centerline of the boat as possible. Use a threaded plug, available from any decent hardware store, wrapped in a few layers of teflon tape, to close the existing inlet fitting.

If waste is also spilling out the vent when you're heeled, the vent fitting should also be moved to the center of the tank...on the top, at the bow end of the tank. Run the vent line forward in as straight a line as possible to exit the hull about a foot below the toe rail. This will prob'ly require installing a new vent thru-hull, but definitely worth the effort for several reasons. Make the new vent line 1" instead the existing 5/8".

Moving both these lines away from the hull to a location nearest the centerline will solve all your backflow and spill problems.

However, I suspect the water filling your bowl is not backflow, but sea water coming into the bowl via the flush water intake line and rising in the bowl to the boat's waterline. If so, it means that you do need a vented loop in the system, but not in the discharge line. It needs to be on the intake side, between the pump and the bowl...which requires replacing the short piece of hose the mfr used to connect 'em. The loop needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline at any angle of heel...which means about shoulder high.

Otoh, if the bowl fills when the intake seacock is closed, then it really IS backflow...most likely waste left sitting in the head discharge hose. The cure: flush a LOT longer in the dry mode--enough to move the bowl contents all the way to the tank. Switch to the wet mode for only a few pumps to bring in some rinse water...then back to dry to send the rinse water ALL the way to the tank.

So...do you need any new valves? No.

Is it time to replace the joker valve? If it's been 2 years or longer since it was replaced, yes. Joker valves should be replaced at least every two years...annually is better.

Is it time to rebuild the toilet? Maybe. If it hasn't been rebuilt in at least 5 years, but it's not more than 10 years old, rebuilding would be a good idea--though neither a new joker valve OR rebuilding is the solution to your problems. If the toilet is more than 10 years old, replacing it would make more sense than rebuilding it.

Y'all might want to check out the link below, btw.

 

[fred]

work ahead

all good ideas, got all the parts this morning and will relocate the fitting this weekend and try out it out.. thanks for all the help!! Fred "Summerbreeze"