The operation was a success. My '79 H27 is back in the Chesapeake after an 18-month bow-to-stern refitting. I have one unexpected problem: enough power to make the stern squat and backfill the cockpit drains. Judging by the smoke line on the transom, the stern squats to the midway point of the exhaust outlet at hull speed. I picked up a gallon or two in the bilge during a marathon motor from Philly to the Upper Bay from what I presume to be leaking fittings. I have to say I don't like the idea of the drain lines being below water. They are about the only thing I haven't replaced. Is this a normal condition for a repowered H27? I have a Westerbeke 11AOne (10.7 hp) in it now, and swapped the original 12-8 two-blade propeller for a 13-10 two blade. The new diesel has lots of rpms left when I hit 5.5 kts. It hits 6.2 kts pretty easily, but the crew is standing in water at that point. At idle the new screw pushes the boat along at 2.2 kts.
back in the water (too deep by the stern)
- Thread starter tmason
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Sounds like you need heavier anchors
Sounds like you need to move more of the weight in the boat forward. Anchors and chain in the bow locker would be my first step. Then I would look at the lockers in the cockpit to get some of the weight out and move inside under the bunks etc. Can not imagine it would take too much effort.
Sounds like you need to move more of the weight in the boat forward. Anchors and chain in the bow locker would be my first step. Then I would look at the lockers in the cockpit to get some of the weight out and move inside under the bunks etc. Can not imagine it would take too much effort.
Cockpit Scuppers
Kenny is right. You don't have a lot of options and on my boat I keep the fresh water tanks full. Even with the 1GM the stern will squat a bit at higher throttle settings but backwashing thru the scuppers is a bit much. Dumb question, does the port cockpit drain empty to the starboard thru hull? It should. When the boat is heeled while sailing does water enter the drain? If you can't fix your problem with weight distribution you may have to go to another prop it sounds like you have room to sacrifice some boat speed and you will gain more torque which is what you need anyway.
Kenny is right. You don't have a lot of options and on my boat I keep the fresh water tanks full. Even with the 1GM the stern will squat a bit at higher throttle settings but backwashing thru the scuppers is a bit much. Dumb question, does the port cockpit drain empty to the starboard thru hull? It should. When the boat is heeled while sailing does water enter the drain? If you can't fix your problem with weight distribution you may have to go to another prop it sounds like you have room to sacrifice some boat speed and you will gain more torque which is what you need anyway.
Hull speed indicator
At hull speed (6.2 knots) the wave on the side of the boat matches the length of the boat, with the trough in the middle, and a crest at each end. At around 6 knots, our '77 h27 gets a little water in the cockpit as the crest builds up at the stern. It sounds like your re-powering made it pretty easy to get up to hull speed! Wow! But I don't see anything particularly wrong with the design. If a wave came over the stern, and filled the cockpit, the drains would work fine (if slowly) to empty the cockpit. If any of the water in the drain hoses is getting into the hull, that is a problem. At 25 to 30 years of age, these hoses often develop cracks or waters that allows such leaks. If so, then you need to replace the hoses, and get two hose clamps on each fitting. (We did just this when we finally figured out that the water sloshing around in the cabin after a great reach was not a loose keel, but the cockpit drain hoses. A small slender guy at the yard actually got down in the lazarette and into the stern area to replace the hoses. But you could also do the work after taking out the aft bulkhead of the quarterberth. In any case, be sure that the hoses are water tight. Many modern exhausts are placd where they can be under water when the boat is moving in a seaway. I doubt this is an issue. Although weight redistribution may help some, I doubt it will eliminate the problem. Getting 700 pounds of rail meat forward on Lady Lillie during the recent cruise with my Dad and brothers reduced but did not eliminate the effect. We love it as a sign that we are really moving! David Lady Lillie
At hull speed (6.2 knots) the wave on the side of the boat matches the length of the boat, with the trough in the middle, and a crest at each end. At around 6 knots, our '77 h27 gets a little water in the cockpit as the crest builds up at the stern. It sounds like your re-powering made it pretty easy to get up to hull speed! Wow! But I don't see anything particularly wrong with the design. If a wave came over the stern, and filled the cockpit, the drains would work fine (if slowly) to empty the cockpit. If any of the water in the drain hoses is getting into the hull, that is a problem. At 25 to 30 years of age, these hoses often develop cracks or waters that allows such leaks. If so, then you need to replace the hoses, and get two hose clamps on each fitting. (We did just this when we finally figured out that the water sloshing around in the cabin after a great reach was not a loose keel, but the cockpit drain hoses. A small slender guy at the yard actually got down in the lazarette and into the stern area to replace the hoses. But you could also do the work after taking out the aft bulkhead of the quarterberth. In any case, be sure that the hoses are water tight. Many modern exhausts are placd where they can be under water when the boat is moving in a seaway. I doubt this is an issue. Although weight redistribution may help some, I doubt it will eliminate the problem. Getting 700 pounds of rail meat forward on Lady Lillie during the recent cruise with my Dad and brothers reduced but did not eliminate the effect. We love it as a sign that we are really moving! David Lady Lillie
It sounds like your scupper hoses...
are leaking. When the stern squats water will come up to the cockpit but it should not be able to find its way to the bilge. Check the hoses and the rudder post.
are leaking. When the stern squats water will come up to the cockpit but it should not be able to find its way to the bilge. Check the hoses and the rudder post.
not to hard
if you have enough weight to move on this boat to affect it drastically enough to keep the scuppers out of the water, you might have to much weight
The best thing to do is while under way, crawl into the quarter berth, pull the bulkhead out and poke your head in there and watch whats going on. From there, you can see the exhaust, scupper lines, bolts for the shaft and the tube for the rudder. Also when under way, check the thru hull for the sink in the head... Sometimes that plastic nut backs out a bit (if you have one like me) and that will throw some water into the bilge at anchor, under way and etc.. (basically any time water gets high enough there) Dumb question, but you checked the stuffing box after the repower?
if you have enough weight to move on this boat to affect it drastically enough to keep the scuppers out of the water, you might have to much weight
The best thing to do is while under way, crawl into the quarter berth, pull the bulkhead out and poke your head in there and watch whats going on. From there, you can see the exhaust, scupper lines, bolts for the shaft and the tube for the rudder. Also when under way, check the thru hull for the sink in the head... Sometimes that plastic nut backs out a bit (if you have one like me) and that will throw some water into the bilge at anchor, under way and etc.. (basically any time water gets high enough there) Dumb question, but you checked the stuffing box after the repower?Thanks
Thanks for the advice. I'll crawl under there this weekend and replace the lines. (Even fat boys can get into that lazarette once they get the moves down.) Other than this development, the boat is bone dry. Even so, it looks like a 13-10 prop is a bit much. David and Benny, are you running the original prop? There's not much point switching back if it creates the same situation. The 13-10 isn't too much for this motor, so my decision ultimately is whether I want it spinning under 2k rpm. For anyone in the market, www.engines1.com is advertising 11AOnes for $3,300, before dickering. Westerbeke discontinued it in '05 because of the bias against thumpers. Except at idle, it is unbelievably smooth and quiet. It is built by Farymann in Germany, so parts are available from the Farymann distributor in NJ.
Thanks for the advice. I'll crawl under there this weekend and replace the lines. (Even fat boys can get into that lazarette once they get the moves down.) Other than this development, the boat is bone dry. Even so, it looks like a 13-10 prop is a bit much. David and Benny, are you running the original prop? There's not much point switching back if it creates the same situation. The 13-10 isn't too much for this motor, so my decision ultimately is whether I want it spinning under 2k rpm. For anyone in the market, www.engines1.com is advertising 11AOnes for $3,300, before dickering. Westerbeke discontinued it in '05 because of the bias against thumpers. Except at idle, it is unbelievably smooth and quiet. It is built by Farymann in Germany, so parts are available from the Farymann distributor in NJ.
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