Hi all! My H37c was built in 1978, and the port lights (being plastic) are all worn and broken. and leak like they don't exist at all!!:cry: I would like to upgrade; and am looking for stainless steel replacements. What I don't know is: 1-hull/cabin thickness and 2- manufacturers that have the right size replacements spec'd for this boat model. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks
baby needs new glasses
- Thread starter scott j
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Hi Scott, There has been quite a bit written in this forum about new ports - try the search function. Most folks seem to either direct replace the existing Grey ports (they are available at good prices through the chandlery here at HunterOwners.com) or the go for the ones by New Found Metals. Personally, I replaced mine with Beckson Rain Drains (2" spigots) just because that was what was available to me. Ed Schenck is probably our resident expert on ports and I'm sure he'll chime in.
On another note, are you new to the forum? I don't have your boat in the database, but I'd like to! All I need is your HIN (Hull Identification Number), which you can post here, or PM or email to me. Thanks! And good luck with the replacement project.
On another note, are you new to the forum? I don't have your boat in the database, but I'd like to! All I need is your HIN (Hull Identification Number), which you can post here, or PM or email to me. Thanks! And good luck with the replacement project.
You could start by reading about my experience in Owners Mods: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=6887&page=article&mn=37-cutter . Also see Jim's and Sander's articles there. If I had to do it over it would be a financial decision. Either NFM stainless or, for much less cost, Beckson Rain Drains. But study those three installations and see what you think. Another popular option has been the NFM Trimatrix. NFM makes the right size as do Gray and Beckson. Other owners will have other ideas.
I'm 8/9 ths of the way thru replacing all 9 original Gray portlights on my H30 and so far pleased with the "cost effective" Gray replacements I bought thru this sites store/Pompanette.
Be prepared to take some time for proper prep of the opening and dont rush the process.
Remove the originals, tarp your boat, let the core dry out, remove rot if req'd, epoxy the exposed core even if not rotted, check the opening for proper fit for the new portlights, bevel the outside opening edge if needed to insure a good filling of caulk all around the installation, thoroughly clean the exterior FRG surface and use silicon caulk if you replace with plastic Grays (reqd per manufactorer).
Take your time with each one!
Be prepared to take some time for proper prep of the opening and dont rush the process.
Remove the originals, tarp your boat, let the core dry out, remove rot if req'd, epoxy the exposed core even if not rotted, check the opening for proper fit for the new portlights, bevel the outside opening edge if needed to insure a good filling of caulk all around the installation, thoroughly clean the exterior FRG surface and use silicon caulk if you replace with plastic Grays (reqd per manufactorer).
Take your time with each one!
I just ordered a set of all ten Gray/Bomar portlights from the HOW store. The elves at Pompanette are making them now. At $1.4K they are the cheapest alternative. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. I may have opened a can of worms. Pray for my sanity in the coming months and stand by to give advice and comfort.
I did send 15 dog knobs and a couple trim rings back for exchange due to poor quality but the exchange was handled without any problem.
Old knobs have a nice, threaded metal insert but the new knobs have threads simply tapped in plastic and wobbled badly. The trim rings had marring on the exterior surface.
Look over your new ones carefully and if issues they will pay shipping for an exchange. Overall you can't beat the price if plastic works for you - it does for me for this boat.
Good luck and don't skimp on the silicon caulk!
BTW, If you're considering trimming down the cockpit portlight see another current thread in this forum "H30 Portlight R&R" for that discussion.
Old knobs have a nice, threaded metal insert but the new knobs have threads simply tapped in plastic and wobbled badly. The trim rings had marring on the exterior surface.
Look over your new ones carefully and if issues they will pay shipping for an exchange. Overall you can't beat the price if plastic works for you - it does for me for this boat.
Good luck and don't skimp on the silicon caulk!
BTW, If you're considering trimming down the cockpit portlight see another current thread in this forum "H30 Portlight R&R" for that discussion.
My experience with those old knobs was that the plastic would crack and seperate from the metal insert. The new ones were much better from that standpoint.
I wonder if they are getting them from a new source?
I wonder if they are getting them from a new source?
Following someone else's advise
If I had only followed other's advise, I wouldn't have had to re-bed my new Beckson portlights three times. I was living on-board and would get hit in the forehead everytime it rained. Take the time to make the hole slightly larger than needed, then glass in the edges! Then us 3m 4000UV fastcure as it glues like 5200 and stays flexible, which it has to. Secondly, after 5 years with new Beckons, I wish I had replaced them one at a time with real windows, one's that are stainless steel, lock down making the boat a submarine for those 'special' moments, and glass which will stay clear.
Then, 20yrs from now, you'll be glad you did.
Kb
s/v Renasci
If I had only followed other's advise, I wouldn't have had to re-bed my new Beckson portlights three times. I was living on-board and would get hit in the forehead everytime it rained. Take the time to make the hole slightly larger than needed, then glass in the edges! Then us 3m 4000UV fastcure as it glues like 5200 and stays flexible, which it has to. Secondly, after 5 years with new Beckons, I wish I had replaced them one at a time with real windows, one's that are stainless steel, lock down making the boat a submarine for those 'special' moments, and glass which will stay clear.
Then, 20yrs from now, you'll be glad you did.
Kb
s/v Renasci
Re: Following someone else's advise
The only drips I ever experience with the Beckson Rain Drains is occaisionally around the rubber seals. A good wash and a thin smear of vaseline always fixes the problem. That said, if money was no object, I would go with metal ports next time.
Beckson (and I believe Pompanette/Gray) specify using maine-grade silicon with their ports and specifically advise against polyurethane (3M 5200/4200 etc.) as well as polysulfide (Lifecaulk). I used silicone, and have not had any problems in 7+ years. The biggest challenge using silicone caulking is to start with a perfectly clean surface, removing all traces of the old silicone. I also sealed the core with epoxy when I did the replacements.
The only drips I ever experience with the Beckson Rain Drains is occaisionally around the rubber seals. A good wash and a thin smear of vaseline always fixes the problem. That said, if money was no object, I would go with metal ports next time.
Blaise' aluminum Lewmars are likely the best option assuming they are safety glass like my NFMs. I recall that they are very expensive. I really like my NFMs for their looks, two dog closure, and safety. Having to hang them on a chain is a bit of a pain. But they don't leak.
Knowing now how different my actual sailing has been from what I had planned then I would likely do Becksons. Thirteen years later at age 70 I probably won't be making those long offshore passages.
Knowing now how different my actual sailing has been from what I had planned then I would likely do Becksons. Thirteen years later at age 70 I probably won't be making those long offshore passages.
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Hi Jim!
I still want to replace my original port lights w/ stainless steel units (as opposed to the original plastic ones).From what I've found; Lewmar only seems to make s.s. units in "eye" shaped design, or aluminum. Seems like NFM don't install easily (hanging from chains?) and the rest are just, basically, "cost effective" plastic. Right so far? Seems like I see what I want on other boats in my mooring field-but not Hunters. What have I overlooked?
On another note: I am a new subscri ber. My hull documentation shows the hull #: 608559. Shouldn't there be the letter H to start the numerical sequence? From what I've found out of her history- The Cariad was produced in 1978. She was used as a charter boat out of Marblehead,MA ( Sun Charters?) before being sold to private ownership out of Boston,MA. I bought her from Sailing Speciaties out of Mystic, Conn.in 2003
Bottom line is that I'm not only bringing her back; I have specific ideas how I want her to look/move. I've replaced her original Yanmar 20 hp drive train w/ a new Beta Marine 20 in 2009; as well as replaced original main and cutter sails w/ new Doyles- the jib is the last piece of the sail components to be changed out
Thanks for your time and attention
Scott
I still want to replace my original port lights w/ stainless steel units (as opposed to the original plastic ones).From what I've found; Lewmar only seems to make s.s. units in "eye" shaped design, or aluminum. Seems like NFM don't install easily (hanging from chains?) and the rest are just, basically, "cost effective" plastic. Right so far? Seems like I see what I want on other boats in my mooring field-but not Hunters. What have I overlooked?
On another note: I am a new subscri ber. My hull documentation shows the hull #: 608559. Shouldn't there be the letter H to start the numerical sequence? From what I've found out of her history- The Cariad was produced in 1978. She was used as a charter boat out of Marblehead,MA ( Sun Charters?) before being sold to private ownership out of Boston,MA. I bought her from Sailing Speciaties out of Mystic, Conn.in 2003
Bottom line is that I'm not only bringing her back; I have specific ideas how I want her to look/move. I've replaced her original Yanmar 20 hp drive train w/ a new Beta Marine 20 in 2009; as well as replaced original main and cutter sails w/ new Doyles- the jib is the last piece of the sail components to be changed out
Thanks for your time and attention
Scott
So you are the "new" Scott? And this is your first post? Regardless, welcome aboard. As for the chain hangers just know that the glass and frame is very heavy. Doubt that any hinge spring could handle it. But I thought someone recently installed NFMs and they had a friction hinge.
Scott, here is the review I made some time ago about NFM ports on our H37c. They are basically bolt on, very little modification need to be made (enlarge drain holes slightly, which is very easy to do, and drill holes). I do mention all the flaws NFM ports have. As for the way they hold open, they no longer require chain to remain open, they have friction hinges (that said I would not leave them open in heavy seas).
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=127323
Prior to doing the ports, I would advise you to have the boat surveyed, and specifically ask the surveyor to check the cabin side for signs of humidity and core rot. Ports can still be installed if the core is damaged, but while the ports are removed, you might as well repair the area. Here is how the core looked on our boat just a few weeks ago. We had to remove the ports we've installed last year to do the job.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136363
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=127323
Prior to doing the ports, I would advise you to have the boat surveyed, and specifically ask the surveyor to check the cabin side for signs of humidity and core rot. Ports can still be installed if the core is damaged, but while the ports are removed, you might as well repair the area. Here is how the core looked on our boat just a few weeks ago. We had to remove the ports we've installed last year to do the job.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=136363
Cudos all -Your shared expertise and knowledge in the world of port light replacement is awesome!....and the pictures of surgery in said name is also scary. I sincerely hope the core around my windows isn't that nasty- but I also know how those things go!...Jim, I understand(now) your chain hanger comment. Ed; I enlisted aid in the HBO forum a number of years ago about locating a source for marine teak/sole plywood, and you folks came through in stellar form then too! Again,thanks :^) Scott
Alternative to dreaded chain
Ed;
I didn't like the idea of the chain either. Got a bunch of chromed brass small hinges. Opened one of the screw holes into a keyhole, nounted them on the overhead. Pictures tell the story. latching them open is a one handed operation. Anyone need some NFM port chains?
Ed;
I didn't like the idea of the chain either. Got a bunch of chromed brass small hinges. Opened one of the screw holes into a keyhole, nounted them on the overhead. Pictures tell the story. latching them open is a one handed operation. Anyone need some NFM port chains?
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- Aug 10, 2010
- 115
I second the NFMs. Of course I cheated and had the yard install them as I am out of the country for six months and didn't want to lose anymore sailing time upon my return
- Aug 10, 2010
- 115
Oops, I hit submit a little too early. Here are some pictures from the wife. A few of the original ports had been replaced over the years with the plastic versions and it didn't take long for the Florida sun to wreck them. Now the boat is in Maryland where the sun isn't so rough, but the NFMs are still worth the added cost IMHO.
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