Aux Bilge Pump Switches...to Be Or Not To Be

[woodster]

i am wondering if it is better to have bilge pumps with no automatic switch and a aux float switch to operate the pump or would it be better to have pumps with the switch made in to the pump...seems to me that haveing a switch as an add on would give you the ability to be able to just replace the pump or the switch ...witch ever may go bad.... rather than a pump with the switch built in and have to replace the whole thing ......any thoughts on this anyone

regards

woody

 

[Stu Jackson]

Separate is better for me. I like knowing there are two moving parts, either one of which could go wrong and can be replaced without affecting the other. They always seem to go goofy at different times.

 

[Eric M]

Go with the separate switch and pump. If you like you can even get a pump that is not required to be in the bottom of the bilge. You can also wire in a separate 3 way manual switch such that the pump can be set to automatic (float swich operated) or manual mode to allow you to empty the bilge further than the float swich cut off.

 

[alexco38]

It's next to impossible to test an integrated bilge pump as the sensor is deep inside the unit. Secondly if there is debri inside the float, it may not start the pump when the water level rises.
The separated float switch design enable you to flip up the float to make sure the pump works.

 

[sailingdog]

I prefer the external switch setup...

 

[BobM]

I'd also suggest a small bilge pump if you do go with a built in sensor. They typically spin the pump frequently to check for resistance. The smaller the pump, the smaller the drain on your batterys. Also, it is a heck of a lot cheaper to replace the smaller pump every five years leaving your expensive big pump high, dry and happy with a separate float switch.

 

[Snotter]

I've got two 1000 gph pumps: one that is computerized and cycles periodically, and one that has a manual switch. I get a warm fuzzy feeling hearing the computerized pump cycle. It lets me know it is still working. I am always wondering if the manual one works. It is a p.i.t.a. to test occasionaly. However, it took me a while to not let the cycling of the computerized pump disturb my sleep.

 

[Rick Sylvester]

Absolutely go separate

for all the reasons you and the other posters have cited.

I'll suggest what I think is another better idea and that is, go with a switch that has NO moving parts. After having several float switches die I went with a switch that employs a capacitive probe. A variation on this is a field effect switch such as this one:

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=71480&product=108291

For about the same money you get a switch that is more reliable and won't activate when fuel or oil is detected.

 

[sailaway78]

I would not even consider

Having a bilge pump that doesn't have a manual switch. Over the years, the most common failure for me has been the float switch. I have gone the way of the previous suggestion and I now use the electronic probe switches, which so far have been totally reliable. But I still want to be able to turn it on, from time to time, just to make sure it is running if nothing else. If a float switch should fail, and you don't have any way to manually turn it on, going to take some mad dash monkey motion to rig something up should the worst happen. The ones that come on at intervals can run a battery down if a boat were on a mooring for a period of time.

 

[Steve Dion]

I can tell you that one of the MOST problematic items that I have experienced on our boats has been the Whale float switches. I have not had a problem with the bilge pumps with an internal sensor.

I am considering adding another bilge pump with a high quality switch with no moving parts as a backup.

Every pump that I have had, has a manual switch. I would not be without one.

 

[woodster]

thanks for the replies guys......just as i suspected ...seprate float switches along with panel switches that will go auto /off/ manual ...with a light burning when running.....i plan on a 800 gal ruel pump at the very bottom of the bilge..with a 1500 gallon just above that ...along with a 500 gallon guzzler hand pump in the cockpit this should be ok for a 30ft boat...although the manual pump is sort of a last resort sort of thing ..when it gets that bad it may be sole searching time lol ....i have considered a engine driven pump that has a clutch on it that i may incorperate as well but havent found a good deal on one as of yet though i am looking ......if any of you see things that need to be commented on about this setup just chime in a tell me what you think...as always i appreciate the feed back...

regards

woody

 

[Dalliance]

I have set up my bilge pumps in a similar way: a primary (lower in the bilge) and a back up pump, both with separate float switches and fused manual/auto panel switch. Since I am usually only at the boat on weekends, here are a few additional measures I have taken:
1) The primary pump has a bilge pump counter at the panel to record how many times the pump cycles on and off between resets. Without that, a float switch on auto mode could mask a small problem until it becomes a big one.
2) The panel switch for the back up pump has an alarm buzzer and I located the thru-hull where it will discharge onto the dock rather than into the water. My theory being that this would alert someone nearby that there is a problem so they could give me or the harbor master a call.
3) Both pump panel switches are fused and connected to separate batteries so that I have two completely redundant systems.

 

[DannyS]

This is all quite interesting because I'm going to be replacing my bilge pump this spring. I had a Rule 1100 gph with the computerized timer so it automatically turned on every 2 1/2 minutes. Snotter, I too liked hearing it kick on and off making me think my bilge was dry. Imagine my surprise when I opened up the bilge at the end of the season to winterize to see 6 inches of standing water, enough to completely cover the pump! I flipped the switch on the pump and it happily kicked on and right back off again as though there was no water at all. I pulled the pump out to find the spindle on the impeller had snapped. This happened some time during the summer because I know it worked early on in the season last year, but who knows, it could have happened the day after I checked it in the spring. Scary thought that I went all season hearing it kick on and off giving me a false sense of security!
I was planning on replacing it with the same pump but now you have all given me some things to think about.

 

[sailingdog]

My recommendation for a full bilge pump setup has a small "maintenance" bilge pump down in the lowest part of the bilge. The switch for this pump can be integrated or separate, but it must be mounted as low as possible. This pump should be on a counter of some sort, so you can keep track of how often it is cycling. This will tell you if you have any leaks and if they're getting worse or not. The reason to get as small a pump for this as possible is to reduce the cost of replacing it, as it will burn out more often than the other pumps, since it will get the most use, and to keep the backflushing of hoses to a minimum. Small pumps have smaller hoses, and less water will sit in the hoses and back flush into the bilge when the pump shuts down.

The next pump should be the highest capacity electric bilge pump you can get. Remember, bilge pumps are rated in GPH, not GPM, and even a small hole, 3' below the waterline lets in a lot of GPM. This is more important on a small boat than a large one, since it takes less water as a whole to sink a small boat. This one should have a float switch mounted an inch to a few inches higher than that of the "maintenance" pump. This is your main bilge pump and should handle things like your water tank bursting, the water that gets down the companionway or hatches when out sailing, etc.

You should also, ideally, have two large manual diaphragm pumps setup. One should be accessible inside the cabin, the other should be mounted where it can be operated from the cockpit. These are the emergency dewatering pumps, in case the hull gets damaged and things like that. The reason you want two of them is simple. First, if you have crew, two pumps means that two people can work on keeping the boat afloat. Second, if you are out in really bad weather singlehanded and have to either hunker down in the cabin or man the cockpit, you can still operate at least one of the pumps.