I am regularly having problems with the autohelm 4000 simply "losing it" and falling off. Whats strange is that the clutch remains engaged but the boat falls off signicantly. Last time this happened I was on a beam reach and almost gybed. I spoke to Hunter but their response was that they have never had a complaint with the autohelm 4000. Any comments?
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Check with RayMarine
My 4000 will vary slightly with a change in voltage such as when the refrigerator cycles. Your sounds worse, though you might check your voltage as your refrigerator cycles. Check with RayMarine as they manufacture the 4000. Their Web Page isn't coming up this morning, but Pyachts handles their product. You might try their web page: http://www.pyacht.net or their email address: info@pyacht.com Good Luck
My 4000 will vary slightly with a change in voltage such as when the refrigerator cycles. Your sounds worse, though you might check your voltage as your refrigerator cycles. Check with RayMarine as they manufacture the 4000. Their Web Page isn't coming up this morning, but Pyachts handles their product. You might try their web page: http://www.pyacht.net or their email address: info@pyacht.com Good Luck
Also, Calibration
.. I had a bad head on a new unit. Before returning it for exchange, Raytheon suggested I go through the set up procedure first. So, as Jim suggests, check first for proper voltage. Then you may want to re-boot the system by going through a new set up. If that doesn't work, call their customer service. Rick D.
.. I had a bad head on a new unit. Before returning it for exchange, Raytheon suggested I go through the set up procedure first. So, as Jim suggests, check first for proper voltage. Then you may want to re-boot the system by going through a new set up. If that doesn't work, call their customer service. Rick D.
Not enough experience yet
When we brought up boat up the first of November we were experiencing the same thing. The 4000 decided it was time to go that away. This was before calibrating it. I havn't finished the calibration yet and probably won't until this spring. I plan to test many times. Jim S/V Java
When we brought up boat up the first of November we were experiencing the same thing. The 4000 decided it was time to go that away. This was before calibrating it. I havn't finished the calibration yet and probably won't until this spring. I plan to test many times. Jim S/V Java
standard reply
What you're hearing, Stuart, is the standard Hunter reply. Time after time I've reported problems with my boat and heard that no one else has experienced this problem, but then I get on HOW and find out that other owners are not only having the same trouble, but are hearing the same "standard reply" from Hunter. .......... You probably need to recalibrate your unit, the tech support people at raymarine will walk you through the process while you do it. Call them from the boat and go through the settings with them while you actually calibrate your pilot.
What you're hearing, Stuart, is the standard Hunter reply. Time after time I've reported problems with my boat and heard that no one else has experienced this problem, but then I get on HOW and find out that other owners are not only having the same trouble, but are hearing the same "standard reply" from Hunter. .......... You probably need to recalibrate your unit, the tech support people at raymarine will walk you through the process while you do it. Call them from the boat and go through the settings with them while you actually calibrate your pilot.
Also Maybe a Combination of Things
"The" problem may actually be a collection of things, such as, (1) improper location, (2) dirty current, (3) improper calibration, and, perhaps others. Location: If the fluxgate compass picks up any influence from iron, such as the engine (if it's mounted aft) or anchor chain (if it's mounted near the bow), it will have a poorer response to the earth's magnetic flux. Kinda like trying to look at the stars on a dark night while in a city vs. in the country. Current: As mentioned, the refrigeration could be the culprit; however, this can be the result of several more problems, such as undersized conductors and/or poor connections to these devices. Think about other high loads on board such as the water pump or forced-air heater. While the refrigeration is probably the biggest load for starting the impact on the electrical system may be worse from a smaller load if the current has to travel through undersized conductors or a bad connection. I know it's a new boat but check all your wire runs, wire sizes, and loads. Check round-trip from battery post to battery post. Do the math to determine if they are sized properly and allow about 3.5 times more current on motor circuits than they need to run - this is for the start-up load. On our boat the wires were probably sized okay for the delivered vessel but by the time I loaded it up with stuff they became very undersized. Battery cables went from #4 to #00, panel run went from #10 to #2, etc. Terminals: Check to ensure all the terminals and connectors are tight. With a new boat the screws can loosen slightly and you need to go over them to ensure they're tight. Check the connectors to ensure the wire has a good crimp by moving the wire a bit. If it seems loose then fix it. Do this for both positive and grounds - you're looking at round-trip circuit. I had a loose screw on the jumper wire from the first row of breakers to the second row and this gave my Autohelm fits. If the battery has low voltage this can cause a problem too but this should be obvious. Calibration is certainly another item to check because these things need the proper settings to work. Raymarine is going to be the expert on this item and Hunter should have told you to go to them - or the dealer.
"The" problem may actually be a collection of things, such as, (1) improper location, (2) dirty current, (3) improper calibration, and, perhaps others. Location: If the fluxgate compass picks up any influence from iron, such as the engine (if it's mounted aft) or anchor chain (if it's mounted near the bow), it will have a poorer response to the earth's magnetic flux. Kinda like trying to look at the stars on a dark night while in a city vs. in the country. Current: As mentioned, the refrigeration could be the culprit; however, this can be the result of several more problems, such as undersized conductors and/or poor connections to these devices. Think about other high loads on board such as the water pump or forced-air heater. While the refrigeration is probably the biggest load for starting the impact on the electrical system may be worse from a smaller load if the current has to travel through undersized conductors or a bad connection. I know it's a new boat but check all your wire runs, wire sizes, and loads. Check round-trip from battery post to battery post. Do the math to determine if they are sized properly and allow about 3.5 times more current on motor circuits than they need to run - this is for the start-up load. On our boat the wires were probably sized okay for the delivered vessel but by the time I loaded it up with stuff they became very undersized. Battery cables went from #4 to #00, panel run went from #10 to #2, etc. Terminals: Check to ensure all the terminals and connectors are tight. With a new boat the screws can loosen slightly and you need to go over them to ensure they're tight. Check the connectors to ensure the wire has a good crimp by moving the wire a bit. If it seems loose then fix it. Do this for both positive and grounds - you're looking at round-trip circuit. I had a loose screw on the jumper wire from the first row of breakers to the second row and this gave my Autohelm fits. If the battery has low voltage this can cause a problem too but this should be obvious. Calibration is certainly another item to check because these things need the proper settings to work. Raymarine is going to be the expert on this item and Hunter should have told you to go to them - or the dealer.
Have had the same problem...
I have a 1994 Hunter 29.5 with the same autopilot. Every couple of years it looses its mind and needs to be recalibrated. The problem I experience is that the autopilot will suddenly and without warning adjust its course 20 - 30 degrees. When I check the compass heading it thinks it is correct and if left alone will slowly adjust until it returns to the true setting.
I have a 1994 Hunter 29.5 with the same autopilot. Every couple of years it looses its mind and needs to be recalibrated. The problem I experience is that the autopilot will suddenly and without warning adjust its course 20 - 30 degrees. When I check the compass heading it thinks it is correct and if left alone will slowly adjust until it returns to the true setting.
HI STUART, RAYMARINE HELP DESK...
did not help much when I had problems with the ST4000+ on our H28. They kept telling me it was the fluxgate compass location. I did notice some things that might help your situation. My problem turned out to be a system setting. Our ST4000 would always switch from AUTO to STBY whenever it was starved for power. The same thing happens on our P42 with the ST7000 whenever the reefers kick on. Does yours do the same? Now I turn the reefers off when underway. This may be a symptom of a different problem. At first our ST4000+ worked great. Then it began to snake, slowly at first, then dangerously as we progressed. I checked all our settings and they seemed correct. As it turns out the rudder trim setting (I think) was supposed to be "1" but whenever the power to the system was cycled it would default to "5". So, in practice, whenever we started the system I would change it back to "1". I finally smarted up and changed the default to "1", which required going through the new install procedure. Hope this helps. Terry
did not help much when I had problems with the ST4000+ on our H28. They kept telling me it was the fluxgate compass location. I did notice some things that might help your situation. My problem turned out to be a system setting. Our ST4000 would always switch from AUTO to STBY whenever it was starved for power. The same thing happens on our P42 with the ST7000 whenever the reefers kick on. Does yours do the same? Now I turn the reefers off when underway. This may be a symptom of a different problem. At first our ST4000+ worked great. Then it began to snake, slowly at first, then dangerously as we progressed. I checked all our settings and they seemed correct. As it turns out the rudder trim setting (I think) was supposed to be "1" but whenever the power to the system was cycled it would default to "5". So, in practice, whenever we started the system I would change it back to "1". I finally smarted up and changed the default to "1", which required going through the new install procedure. Hope this helps. Terry
Ditto
The Autopilot on my 356 is probably the option I'm most unhappy about. Like Terry, I have to set the rudder gain to "1" to even give it chance to hold a course. Forget the +30 (?? I don't even know!) degree course change button. I've read the Raytheon manual too many times and tinkered all season with the settings and still am not pleased. In fact I've resorted to locking the helm in some conditions instead.
The Autopilot on my 356 is probably the option I'm most unhappy about. Like Terry, I have to set the rudder gain to "1" to even give it chance to hold a course. Forget the +30 (?? I don't even know!) degree course change button. I've read the Raytheon manual too many times and tinkered all season with the settings and still am not pleased. In fact I've resorted to locking the helm in some conditions instead.
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