Went sailing with a friend the other day and used his Autohelm Autopilot. It really made life easier to be able to let go of the steering once in a while. Now I'm thinking of getting an Autohelm Tiller Autopilot, but I'm concerned about where to mount it and if it would be as effective on a 96 Hunter 26. Has anyone had any experience with a tiller autopilot?
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Mike Pajewski
Go for the 2000
JK, I also have a 96 H26. I am in the process of installing my autopilot now, but I can't speak to how effective it is. Most book and magazine articles say that if your displacement falls near the very top of the autopilot's range, to use the next larger one. Edson had trouble developing a wheel steering system that would hold up on the 26 due to high rudder loading, which is why I still have a tiller. To make a long story short, I felt that the TP2000+ was better suited for my 26. It will also directly interface with my GPS. The wiring was straight forward. The only reason I haven't used it yet is that Raytheon has my deck socket and extension on backorder. Plan on spending an extra $100 bucks for the tiller bracket and deck mount. West Marine and Defender do not stock these parts, and have Raytheon drop ship to you. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
JK, I also have a 96 H26. I am in the process of installing my autopilot now, but I can't speak to how effective it is. Most book and magazine articles say that if your displacement falls near the very top of the autopilot's range, to use the next larger one. Edson had trouble developing a wheel steering system that would hold up on the 26 due to high rudder loading, which is why I still have a tiller. To make a long story short, I felt that the TP2000+ was better suited for my 26. It will also directly interface with my GPS. The wiring was straight forward. The only reason I haven't used it yet is that Raytheon has my deck socket and extension on backorder. Plan on spending an extra $100 bucks for the tiller bracket and deck mount. West Marine and Defender do not stock these parts, and have Raytheon drop ship to you. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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Gus Elia
AutoTack
Mike, Does the 2000 have auto tack? It seems that would be a great plus when single handing the boat.
Mike, Does the 2000 have auto tack? It seems that would be a great plus when single handing the boat.
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Mike Salois
I agree
I agree with the post stating that you should go with the "2000". I have one on a Hunter 26.5 and it works great. I especially like the auto tack feature since I sail mostly solo.
I agree with the post stating that you should go with the "2000". I have one on a Hunter 26.5 and it works great. I especially like the auto tack feature since I sail mostly solo.
I would recommend the ST2000
I would suggest the larger autopilot, so you have some extra grunt in reserve for those days when the weather is not great and you really need to take a break from the helm. Good luck! Peter S/V Raven
I would suggest the larger autopilot, so you have some extra grunt in reserve for those days when the weather is not great and you really need to take a break from the helm. Good luck! Peter S/V Raven
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Mike Pajewski
Autotack and Dodge
Gus, The ST2000 does have the auto-tack feature. It also has a dodge feature where say you spot a floating log and have to go around it, the autopilot has a feature to enable you to do this. Another advantage of the Autohelm unit is that it has a LCD Display that provides a host of information, including course, calibration info. The Simrad units do not have this. Hooray! My Mounting Pedestal arrived today, I will install it tomorrow. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
Gus, The ST2000 does have the auto-tack feature. It also has a dodge feature where say you spot a floating log and have to go around it, the autopilot has a feature to enable you to do this. Another advantage of the Autohelm unit is that it has a LCD Display that provides a host of information, including course, calibration info. The Simrad units do not have this. Hooray! My Mounting Pedestal arrived today, I will install it tomorrow. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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Ron Mehringer
Photos?
Anyone have any pics of their "auto helms" mounted in a H26 with a tiller. I sure like the idea of an autohelm, but can't imagine how to mount one without it being in the way. I can just see someone heading for the stern rail seats, gust of wind, loss of ballance, oops...broken autohelm. Perhaps a photo would change my mind.
Anyone have any pics of their "auto helms" mounted in a H26 with a tiller. I sure like the idea of an autohelm, but can't imagine how to mount one without it being in the way. I can just see someone heading for the stern rail seats, gust of wind, loss of ballance, oops...broken autohelm. Perhaps a photo would change my mind.
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Mike Pajewski
I'll try to get some on Friday
Ron, I finished installing the parts today. It doesn't seem to be too bad at all. In fact, it beats having the tiller take up valuable seat space. The install time was about an hour for the mechanical components. The electrical was a little trickier, as I added an additional fuse panel that supported three breakers, a DC outlet and a battery meter. I ran (+)power (14 gage wire is recommended) from the new panel, down the starboard side and into the transom. The tied into the supplied socket. The (-) is connected right to the negative battery post. The other connections were for the NMEA signal from the GPS-Fish Finder. So far, everything tests out dockside, sea trials is on Friday. I'll try to get some pictures. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
Ron, I finished installing the parts today. It doesn't seem to be too bad at all. In fact, it beats having the tiller take up valuable seat space. The install time was about an hour for the mechanical components. The electrical was a little trickier, as I added an additional fuse panel that supported three breakers, a DC outlet and a battery meter. I ran (+)power (14 gage wire is recommended) from the new panel, down the starboard side and into the transom. The tied into the supplied socket. The (-) is connected right to the negative battery post. The other connections were for the NMEA signal from the GPS-Fish Finder. So far, everything tests out dockside, sea trials is on Friday. I'll try to get some pictures. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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Mike Pajewski
Clean Sweep on sea trials and pictures too!
We tested the autopilot today. It worked great on a reach, running and under power. The wind started to pipe up after a while, and although it held course, it clearly had to work harder going upwind. Even with full sails and a 15-18 knot breeze, it did a good job. It would have been much happier with the main reefed down. For the most part, it very rarely moved more than an inch, and reacts so quickly that the ride of the boat is much improved. I was very pleased. I have posted the pictures of the installation in the photo forum. Hats off to Ron Fraboni, who helped me with the installation. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
We tested the autopilot today. It worked great on a reach, running and under power. The wind started to pipe up after a while, and although it held course, it clearly had to work harder going upwind. Even with full sails and a 15-18 knot breeze, it did a good job. It would have been much happier with the main reefed down. For the most part, it very rarely moved more than an inch, and reacts so quickly that the ride of the boat is much improved. I was very pleased. I have posted the pictures of the installation in the photo forum. Hats off to Ron Fraboni, who helped me with the installation. Mike Pajewski H26 "Loon"
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Ken Shubert
Try SS Clamps
The Autohelm 1000/2000 likes to be at right angles to the boat travel and reasonably horizontal to the earth, so the gimballed flux gate compass can work well. Since most H23.5/240/26/260 have SS pipe tillers, I just used SS hose clamps to attach a bracket to the tiller. This allows for adjustment of the bracket and I didn't weaken the tiller by drilling and or tapping holes. The first thing to do is have the pin and cup provided with the Autopilot threaded so that standard SS nuts will hold them. Raytheon says epoxy but it a lot easier to handle "nuts & bolts" for me. The Autohelms come programmed for a longer boat so be sure to read the whole instruction book and re-program for the little guys. Other parameters are programmable too so if you are leaving a 'snake wake' you can change the damping characteristics. It's also programmable for mounting on either side if you don't want a mount in front of the swim ladder and have room to clear the outboard. Don't fall asleep and run aground! Ken S/V Wouff Hong
The Autohelm 1000/2000 likes to be at right angles to the boat travel and reasonably horizontal to the earth, so the gimballed flux gate compass can work well. Since most H23.5/240/26/260 have SS pipe tillers, I just used SS hose clamps to attach a bracket to the tiller. This allows for adjustment of the bracket and I didn't weaken the tiller by drilling and or tapping holes. The first thing to do is have the pin and cup provided with the Autopilot threaded so that standard SS nuts will hold them. Raytheon says epoxy but it a lot easier to handle "nuts & bolts" for me. The Autohelms come programmed for a longer boat so be sure to read the whole instruction book and re-program for the little guys. Other parameters are programmable too so if you are leaving a 'snake wake' you can change the damping characteristics. It's also programmable for mounting on either side if you don't want a mount in front of the swim ladder and have room to clear the outboard. Don't fall asleep and run aground! Ken S/V Wouff Hong
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Mike Salois
Auto Tack
On my 2000 if you push either the two red buttons or the two green buttons simultaniously the pilot will tack 100 degrees to the right or left. Its great not having to worry what the tiller is doing while the boat is tacking and you are hauling sails in and out.
On my 2000 if you push either the two red buttons or the two green buttons simultaniously the pilot will tack 100 degrees to the right or left. Its great not having to worry what the tiller is doing while the boat is tacking and you are hauling sails in and out.
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