Attn Hunter 49 / 50 owners. Shore power potential problem

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Jun 1, 2009
1,754
Hunter 49 toronto
This is a memo to owners of the following boats:
Hunter 49, 50 CC, 50AC with isolation transformers.

I have a 49 wired with 220 volt input, with an isolation transformer.
I just became aware of a wiring error on my boat, which I suggest you check for.
Firstly, I will describe the problem.

On the AC inlet receptacle, it is a 125 / 250v inlet.
The inlet has the following connections:
Black, Red, White, Green.
The boat (with isolation transformer) is wired to use the black and red terminals only. This is 220 volts. This feeds the primary of the isolation transformer.
The secondary of the transformer has a center tap, which provides the 120 volt neutral.
The cable which goes from the inlet receptacle to the isolation transformer is a #6 guage 3 conductor cable, with colors black, white green.
They should be connected to the power inlet as follows;
Black - Black, White - Red, Green to Green.
On the inlet receptacle , there are 2 blades where there is a bent portion of the pin. The third blade is flat.
It is very important to ensure that the green wire actually connects to the smaller green bonding screw, and NOT , ( as was the case on my boat), onto the blade which is flat.
Here is why I believe this mistake was made at the plant.
The green grounding terminal is much smaller than the power blade inlet screws.
As the cable is 6 guage, 3 conductor, the green wire will not fit into the ground terminal as is.
For the ground wire to fit into the green grounding terminal, approximately half of the strands need to be cut out.
This is certainly not a problem electrically, as this ground wire is never going to see 50 Amps of current. Ideally, it will never see any current at all.

Here is the potential danger of having the green wire in the white position on the receptacle. The primary side of the transformer is meant to have its ground connected to an electrically floating transformer shield.
The secondary ground connects to the transformer chassis.
If there would be a breakdown of the transformer isolation shield to the chassis, then the boat ground could be shorted to the shore power 120 v neutral.

To inspect your boat, it is very simple.
Firstly, unplug your shore power cord.
Make sure your inverter and generators are both off.
Unscrew the 220v inlet receptacle from the stern. On my vessel, the screws were self tapping screws into the Fiberglas.
Carefully extract the receptacle, and gently pull the wiring . There should be internal slack in the cable to permit this.
If not, you will need to free up the cable a bit.
Looking at the back of the receptacle, ensure that the green wire connects to the green grounding screw. While you have the receptacle out, ensure that the black and white wire are well secured in their terminals. A slight pull will confirm this.

If the green is in one of the large power terminals, and not on the green lug, this must be corrected
 
Jun 11, 2011
1,243
Hunter 41 Lewes
" The primary side of the transformer is meant to have its ground connected to an electrically floating transformer shield. The secondary ground connects to the transformer chassis. If there would be a breakdown of the transformer isolation shield to the chassis, then the boat ground could be shorted to the shore power 120 v neutral. "


You are not incorrect that it is technically wrong. If the marina is wired correctly the nuetral (white) and ground (green) should be bonded (connected together) at the panel. Each stanchion on the dock is considered a "service entrance". At the origination of a service the nuetral and ground must be connected togther to ensure they have the same "potential". If not this could cause a voltage between the nuetral and ground which would be very bad, shocks, corrosion, even electrocution is possible. Your 120v nuetral should also be bonded to the transformer frame as it is the begining of the new isolated service of your boat. I've been working with electric for quite a long time and I have no idea what an "electrically floating transformer sheild" is. Ground can not be shorted to neutral as they are supposed to be the same potential and have no current between them. The difference between ground and neutral is that neutral is a current carring wire and the ground is there as a safety to ensure fault current will trip the breaker or blow the fuse. The neutral should always be sized to carry the same amperage as the "hot" wire and in some cases it is larger than the hot wire but these are special cases. I'm pretty confident that your change is fine but you should ensure that your ground and neutral bonding is as per the NEC, NFPA, and ABYC.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,754
Hunter 49 toronto
Not in this case

" The primary side of the transformer is meant to have its ground connected to an electrically floating transformer shield. The secondary ground connects to the transformer chassis. If there would be a breakdown of the transformer isolation shield to the chassis, then the boat ground could be shorted to the shore power 120 v neutral. "


You are not incorrect that it is technically wrong. If the marina is wired correctly the nuetral (white) and ground (green) should be bonded (connected together) at the panel. Each stanchion on the dock is considered a "service entrance". At the origination of a service the nuetral and ground must be connected togther to ensure they have the same "potential". If not this could cause a voltage between the nuetral and ground which would be very bad, shocks, corrosion, even electrocution is possible. Your 120v nuetral should also be bonded to the transformer frame as it is the begining of the new isolated service of your boat. I've been working with electric for quite a long time and I have no idea what an "electrically floating transformer sheild" is. Ground can not be shorted to neutral as they are supposed to be the same potential and have no current between them. The difference between ground and neutral is that neutral is a current carring wire and the ground is there as a safety to ensure fault current will trip the breaker or blow the fuse. The neutral should always be sized to carry the same amperage as the "hot" wire and in some cases it is larger than the hot wire but these are special cases. I'm pretty confident that your change is fine but you should ensure that your ground and neutral bonding is as per the NEC, NFPA, and ABYC.

I agree that neutral and ground are tied together at the point of a new voltage source origination
In fact, Hunter has done this internally within the panel.
This ensures that both the genset and the shore power have neutral Bonded to ground.
The transformer documentation specifies that the secondary neutral should be ground bonded, however hunter, correctly, did not do this. This would have duplicated a neutral to ground bonding they would have needed for the genset.
According to electrical code, at the point of a new source, neutral should be ground bonded. By bonding at the panel, hunter has accomplished this.
Getting back to the actual problem.
Mistakenly, the assembler at Hunter put the ground wire in the Neutral power input. As hypothesized, thus was due to the fact that the wire is 6 gauge, and the ground terminal can only accept #10. It was a mistake, and needs to be corrected.
If you wish to review the particulars of the transformer isolation shield, and its function, I suggest you go to the Charles Industries website
It clearly documents the correct wiring methods. It states that the shore ground goes to the isolation shield, and the secondary ground connects to the transformer casing
 
Jan 10, 2012
75
HUNTER 49 MARINA DEL REY
Re: Attn Hunter 49 / 50 owners. Shore power potential proble

Is Hunter aware of this and do you have the proper schematic from them. I hate to make a change with out their schematic.
 
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