Attaching T-Track to teak toe rail

[oldlaxer1]

I'd like to add midship cleats on my Tartan 30 but don't want to put in on the deck due to trip hazard and toe stubbing and more catch points for my jib sheets to hang up on. I only want to use these for spring line attachments. I was thinking of adding a section of T track to my toerail and using the removable sliding cleats for when I need a midship cleat. I'm not sure I have access below decks to thru bolt the t-track on. Any opinions on using 2" wood screws to attach the track?
Thanks
John

 

[Stu Jackson]

2" wood screws are a BAD idea.

Here are some things our skippers did:

Single Handing 101.1 Midship Cleats Pictures http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4921.0.html

You may be complicating the issue. You can get cleats that "disappear" to avoid your concerns.

Put it on the deck and add a rub strake over the teak.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Looking at photos of Tartan 30's it appears that many mount a track to the top of the toe rail. It would be useful for other purposes, but I don't think I would use it for a deck cleat. First, 2" wood screws into the toe rail sounds like a good way to ruin the toe rail so I would use thru bolts. Plus, I think the track ends are a hazard until you screw in those terminations, which holds captive anything that you put on the track (at least that is the case for the tracks I am familiar with), so it's not likely that you will be removing cleats from the track. In this case, the cleat is still a hazard, just a little more out of the way. I'm not comfortable with a deck cleat on a t-track, but my trepidation may be unfounded. I don't like the way they wobble a bit & the force from the dock lines would tend to be sideways where I think the force on t-tracks should be more vertical - like from a jib car or other block.

Just my opinion, but I think I would look into a recessed deck cleat that can be thru bolted (and still install a track for other purposes).

 

[oldlaxer1]

Thanks Stu. I knew there were pop up cleats but had not seen the locking folding cleats. I think that's the way I will go. I can mount them where I have enough access to get a good backing plate and properly seal the through deck penetration.

John

 

[John Nantz]

Here’s another thought. Schaefer makes a cleat that attaches to the genoa track so it can be slid on and off when needed or not needed. No holes to drill, on leaks, no major remodeling project, no unforseen problems (at least I can’t think of any).

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?8835

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/search.php?kw=cleat

These would be optimum for docking or fenders for rafting. Maybe not so much for a permanent setup like for dock lines because the lines would have to go over your teak caprail. Of course, one could put a stainless or bronze metal protector on the teak to prevent rope burn.

 

[Mark Maulden]

I just put two of these on my stbd rail. Ive had them on my port rail for several years as i tie on the port side. For stbd guest moorages, i used the block cars and finally got tired of it. They're on full time and have had no issues with them. I cant remove/replace at will as the track has ends on it to prevent just that. I have teak rails that get a bit chafed by springs but i dont think i can put rubstrake on as it would prevent cars/cleats from sliding. I need to come up with a thin gauge "L" shape strake. The ends are through bolted and i had to get creative to hold a socket and handle on it from below while i screwed from topside.....

 

[Mark Maulden]

Oh ya....on both sides, i had to scrape decades of Sloppy PO applied varnish from the underside of the track..otherwise they wont slide.

 

[Bill Roosa]

if all you need is a spring line then just make the spring line long enough to reach the bow/stern and spring from there. The spring line only keeps the boat from moving forward/aft (but not both) in the slip so you just need the angle to be correct. They don't need to be mid-ship that is just the norm.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Then the line is rubbing on the hull if the dock cleat is somewhere amidships. I use two 50' lines to tie the boat. no eyes. Cleat line on boat with generous tail for adjustment and go to dock cleat and then to midship cleat for spring. I prefer long springs. Also don't have to sort separate dock and spring lines. Mid cleats are also invaluable for midship lines. Everyone should learn about midships.

 

[atwhite2]

Secure a line around a side stay base, run the spring fore or aft and attach a rub strake over the teak. When the line tightens, it will pull the center of the boat towards the dock. If you secure the spring from the bow cleat, it will pull the bow of the boat to the dock when the line tightens... Not ideal, unless you have a bow line that counterbalances the spring line.

 

[John Nantz]

Primary Purpose of Mid-Ship Cleat is for docking

In our case (your mileage may vary), our primary purpose for the midship cleat is for docking. All the Admiral has to do, or myself if I’m single handing, is get the dockline on ‘something’ (cleat or bull rail, Canada docks use a lot of bull rails), and we’re good to go.

After securing the mid-ship dock line we, or I, can take my time dealing with the other lines as needed.

The mid-ship cleat is especially handy under adverse docking [edit: or departing] situations such as when there is a strong wind or current setting the boat off the dock.

The mid-ship cleat is (easily) removed when not in use.

 

[Plumbean]

Here’s another thought. Schaefer makes a cleat that attaches to the genoa track so it can be slid on and off when needed or not needed. No holes to drill, on leaks, no major remodeling project, no unforseen problems (at least I can’t think of any).

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?8835

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/search.php?kw=cleat

These would be optimum for docking or fenders for rafting. Maybe not so much for a permanent setup like for dock lines because the lines would have to go over your teak caprail. Of course, one could put a stainless or bronze metal protector on the teak to prevent rope burn.

I have a T-track through bolted on my teak cap rail, with one of these cleats on the track. They are not cheap, but are well made and very useful, especially for a breast line when docking or undocking.

 

[wufibugs]

I have been thinking of attaching a midship cleat to the toe rail on the H31 but I'm not sure if this puts too much strain on the toe rail. Has anyone done this? What cleat did you use? Did you use a backing plate that distributes the load along more of the rail?