Attaching chainplates

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Jun 14, 2005
165
Cal 20 Westport CT
I have a 20 foot boat. I'm changing the fixed backstay to an adjustable backstay. One aspect of doing this is: I need to install an additional chainplate. A rigger has recommended I attach the chainplate with self tapping screws, where the fiberglass will give me most of the support for the chainplate (and hence the backstay). I'm extremely nervous about this. How can it be strong enough for the loads? My inclination is to use bolts with decent sized backing plates. Any suggestions, mates?
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
This falls into the same catagory as the medical

Doctor that says " what do you expect at your age?" Run don't walk to a new rigger. Chainplates are ALWAYS through-bolted with strong backing plates. I could write more but it is all commentary.
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
I just made backing plates out of cutting board

material nearly 1/2" thick for a new knot meter thru hull on my boat. I used 3M 4200 to bed the plate to the hull but was tempted to use 5200 or epoxy or even Marine-Tex but relented to 'advice'. So far so good and my boat is still floating without any leaks from my work (yet). I would bed the bolts with a thickened epoxy and maybe bed the whole mess outside the hull with 4200 to protect the epoxy from sunlight. The general consensus is that putting self tapping screws directly into fiberglass is a bad idea as it encourages water to infiltrate the fiberglass (assuming your boat is) resulting eventually in loss of rigidity. That is why Ross suggested you "Run, don't walk..." to a new rigger. A rigger may know wire gauges bit is not necessarily a fiberglass expert. Nor am I! I also replaced the aft chain plate assembly on my boat several years back and on the Tartan 27 (1967, so a little older than your boat) the chain plates are through bolted to a hunk of wood (I used the S. American wood: Ipe) which is totally glassed into a knee wall. The old original plywood that had been glassed in had rotted to soil after 37 years of soaking up moisture. It is important to re-bed your chain plates if you can. Several years on that repair with my only regret being that anything SS that is totally glassed in (eg., no air) are prone to fail much faster than if the bolts are visible. I suppose this will eventually be someone else's problem.
 
W

Waffle

on a 20 foot boat the rigger might be right. I would use stainless steel screw with large washers. The large washers act as a backing plate.
 
Sep 15, 2006
202
Oday 27 Nova Scotia
Chainplates etc

Dick - I agree with Posts # 1 & 2 : find a new rigger. Using self-tapping screws is a Mickey Mouse approach. Use a appropriately sized backing plate and s/s bolts with nylock nuts & s/s fender washers. I'd clean the inside of the transom laminate with acetone, scuff it with 80 grit paper and use a coating of thickened epoxy to bond the backing plate in place. The epoxy will also act as a bedding and compensate for any irregularities & roughness of the inner surface of the transom laminate. The purpose of the backing plate is to distribute the point loading of the bolts over a larger area.
 
Jun 14, 2005
165
Cal 20 Westport CT
(self tapping) screw the rigger!

Thanks, everyone. It's great to get this advice. Pretty much supports my initial reaction: bolt not screw. I'm going to use aluminum backing plates, and - as TT suggested - epoxy/filler them in.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Rigger ?????

Maybe I can now call myself a rigger, as I certainly know more than this one. Take the advice given here, use backing plates and find a new rigger.
 
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