Does anybody have any idea how to attach a mast boot to a 37 cutter? There isn't a flange around the bottom to put a large hose clamp around. My rigger has never seen a setup like this either.
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Spartite
I have used Spartite to some success, still get a bit of a drip down between the mast and the seal but its small and controllable as it goes directly to the bildge. I left in the thick rubber seal and followed the instructions. It has lasted since '99 and across the Pacific to Borneo.
I have used Spartite to some success, still get a bit of a drip down between the mast and the seal but its small and controllable as it goes directly to the bildge. I left in the thick rubber seal and followed the instructions. It has lasted since '99 and across the Pacific to Borneo.
Wooden ring
I made a two part wooden ring and then used 3M 5500(?) to glue it to the deck. The ring clamp held the boot to the wooden ring for about 6 or 7 years. Currently I do not have a mast boot but just use caulking compound for a water tight seal. It has been working for two years now. Fair winds.
I made a two part wooden ring and then used 3M 5500(?) to glue it to the deck. The ring clamp held the boot to the wooden ring for about 6 or 7 years. Currently I do not have a mast boot but just use caulking compound for a water tight seal. It has been working for two years now. Fair winds.
No boot.
I wish I had a design to share. Spartite seems like too much work and expense for questionable results. My own problem is compounded by using the partner bolts for eye bolts for things like the preventer. So any seal has to be tight to the mast. Then there is the problem of the two "towers" that the mast bolt goes through. Actually my current practice of cleaning and recaulking with clear silicone has worked well. I get no water down the outside of the mast that I can detect. I did install a new rubber seal when I last restepped in the spring of 2002.
I wish I had a design to share. Spartite seems like too much work and expense for questionable results. My own problem is compounded by using the partner bolts for eye bolts for things like the preventer. So any seal has to be tight to the mast. Then there is the problem of the two "towers" that the mast bolt goes through. Actually my current practice of cleaning and recaulking with clear silicone has worked well. I get no water down the outside of the mast that I can detect. I did install a new rubber seal when I last restepped in the spring of 2002.
I like the idea of the wood ring but...
I think it would probably be better to make it out of some sort of plastic. I don't have a boom-vang to worry about so a boot isn't a problem. Any idea's where to get a thick piece of plastic stock to cut? Another question I had is that the rigger put wooden shims around the base of the mast and in the cabin where the mast comes through. Are these things really necessary? I understand having shims on the top because they are not visible, but are shims really necessary both places? Thanks.
I think it would probably be better to make it out of some sort of plastic. I don't have a boom-vang to worry about so a boot isn't a problem. Any idea's where to get a thick piece of plastic stock to cut? Another question I had is that the rigger put wooden shims around the base of the mast and in the cabin where the mast comes through. Are these things really necessary? I understand having shims on the top because they are not visible, but are shims really necessary both places? Thanks.
Try McMaster
http://www.mcmaster.com/ You can find all sorts of plastic stock here..They will sell smaller quanities of all sorts of materials... Good luck with it..We have a boot, and Spartite..Seems to work well.. 73 Ed & Wendy S/V MYST
http://www.mcmaster.com/ You can find all sorts of plastic stock here..They will sell smaller quanities of all sorts of materials... Good luck with it..We have a boot, and Spartite..Seems to work well.. 73 Ed & Wendy S/V MYST
Wooden ring
I agree that wood might not be the best material but it is easily worked and sticks well with 5500 (?) I made the ring large enough to go outside the mast bolt flanges. I did not try to make it water tight as it would just then hold water that ran down the mast. I left about a 1" gap on the stern side as a drain. I definately would not have wood wedges on the bottom side (inside) of the deck. That would just wedge against the inside pan which is not structurally sound. I just use the original rubber (?) filler ring which is now in about four pieces hammered down tightly. With lots of caulking on top it seals very well. Fair winds
I agree that wood might not be the best material but it is easily worked and sticks well with 5500 (?) I made the ring large enough to go outside the mast bolt flanges. I did not try to make it water tight as it would just then hold water that ran down the mast. I left about a 1" gap on the stern side as a drain. I definately would not have wood wedges on the bottom side (inside) of the deck. That would just wedge against the inside pan which is not structurally sound. I just use the original rubber (?) filler ring which is now in about four pieces hammered down tightly. With lots of caulking on top it seals very well. Fair winds
plastic ring
I used a Nylon(I think)cutting board from Wal-mart. Cut about 1/2" wide following the contour of the aluminum deck plate. This was screwed to the deck plate with SS screws. Use lots of silicone to make a seal. You will only slow water ingress, not stop it, because most seems to come from all those orfices higher up. I may have a .jpeg picture, but not here.
I used a Nylon(I think)cutting board from Wal-mart. Cut about 1/2" wide following the contour of the aluminum deck plate. This was screwed to the deck plate with SS screws. Use lots of silicone to make a seal. You will only slow water ingress, not stop it, because most seems to come from all those orfices higher up. I may have a .jpeg picture, but not here.
One Solution...
...is to weld a ring of aluminum flat bar around the perimeter of the mast collar base. In the attached photo, you can see some tack welds, but the whole thing is tig welded around the bottom as well. Once I bed this on the deck and attach a good dacron mast boot, I think my mast leaks will be banished.
...is to weld a ring of aluminum flat bar around the perimeter of the mast collar base. In the attached photo, you can see some tack welds, but the whole thing is tig welded around the bottom as well. Once I bed this on the deck and attach a good dacron mast boot, I think my mast leaks will be banished.
Attachments
Nice fix Jim.
Your collar with a proper boot should definitely work. It would not work for me though because of my use of the partner bolt holes for eye bolts. I think I am stuck with just piling on the silicone.
Your collar with a proper boot should definitely work. It would not work for me though because of my use of the partner bolt holes for eye bolts. I think I am stuck with just piling on the silicone.
Bought one manufactured by Kenyon
I bought a ring and collar (I don't remember if those are the correct names) from Kenyon several years ago and have had no problems since. Go to this web site http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/KENYON.html Jerry s/v Makai
I bought a ring and collar (I don't remember if those are the correct names) from Kenyon several years ago and have had no problems since. Go to this web site http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Kenyon_Spars/KENYON.html Jerry s/v Makai
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