I have been working on figuring out out to ascend my mast if I were soloing at sea, and the more difficult part, letting myself down again--descending with ascenders down right sucks. Here is what I came up with. First, get two ascenders (also called jumars) at REI or somewhere that sells climbing gear. Tie one ascender to a climbing harness or bosuns chair--the amount of rope between the harness and ascender should be enough so that when its attached, the ascender should reach your neck. Then make a foot hold also attached to an ascender. This one should reach your waist. (I just use a big loop, but you could use a daisy chain, or real foot loops, or make what's called chicken-loops to stick your feet in. Then you inch-worm up, stand, sit, stand, sit. So far, there's nothing new; the guys who recommend ascenders in previous posts mentioned all that, except the length of rope between ascender/harness and ascender foot hold. Now you put a belay device (called an ATC) on the halyard below the lowest ascender, the foothold ascender. You have to leave the halyard you are climbing up uncleated on the bottom--otherwise the belay-device would keep you from ascending. As you inch-worm up, you pull in the slack on the belay-device as well. The motion is like this: stand, raise harness ascender, sit, raise foot ascender, pull in slack on belay device, repeat. When you reach the top of the mast, you tie off the exiting line from the belay device so that you can put weight on it without sliding--a slip-knot is best, something you can release under pressure. This slip-knot is not important for working on the top of the mast, but becomes important when you need to remove the ascenders in order to use the belay device to rappel down. To come down, you stand, remove waist ascender from halyard (and just let it drop, since it's attached to your harness)--since there will be no pressure on it, grasp the exiting line from the belay-device with both hands; take out slip knot, which should have no weight on it since your standing on the foot ascender. While holding down firmly on the exiting line from the belay device, put all your weight on the belay-device--you should be completely braked from the friction of the device--remove feet from footholds--preferably without using your hands--that's why I use a big loop, and just step out of it. Then carefully remove the ascender from the halyard with one hand while you firmly hold down the line exiting the belay device to remain braked. Clip the ascender onto your harness, and rappel down. I've been practicing this at a climbing wall, which I recommend, a bunch of times, before trying it while you're soloing out in the big seas. Take care all, Josh
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Geez Josh!!
I think that I followed all of that. What I can tell you is that is what I have. Two Petzl ascenders, both right-hand, and a climbing harness. The length of the stirrup line can be determined using knots and testing. Then splice up something nice. I have secured a line to the rafters in the garage for practice. As you point out it really is harder going down until you get the hang of it. I have not yet worked on the safety line. Nor how and where to anchor the halyards. I like my combination better than the ATN for two reasons. One, obviously, is cost. I have about $120. invested. Second is the ability to use the halyards and not have to carry and rig a separate line.
I think that I followed all of that. What I can tell you is that is what I have. Two Petzl ascenders, both right-hand, and a climbing harness. The length of the stirrup line can be determined using knots and testing. Then splice up something nice. I have secured a line to the rafters in the garage for practice. As you point out it really is harder going down until you get the hang of it. I have not yet worked on the safety line. Nor how and where to anchor the halyards. I like my combination better than the ATN for two reasons. One, obviously, is cost. I have about $120. invested. Second is the ability to use the halyards and not have to carry and rig a separate line.
Another way
Here is another way... Wear your climbing harness and get two lengths of line (smaller diamter than halyard). Use a prusik knot in the end of the line and tie one to your harness and one as a foothold. Jumar up the halyard switching weight from the harness to the footline and slide the opposite knot up the line. Use one halyard attached as the base of the mast to climb and another attached at the base of the mast with a third prusik as a safety on an independent line. Easy and doesn't require much equipment. Check a mountaineering source such as "Mountaineering - Freedom of the Hills" and I bet they talk about it.
Here is another way... Wear your climbing harness and get two lengths of line (smaller diamter than halyard). Use a prusik knot in the end of the line and tie one to your harness and one as a foothold. Jumar up the halyard switching weight from the harness to the footline and slide the opposite knot up the line. Use one halyard attached as the base of the mast to climb and another attached at the base of the mast with a third prusik as a safety on an independent line. Easy and doesn't require much equipment. Check a mountaineering source such as "Mountaineering - Freedom of the Hills" and I bet they talk about it.
RE: Prusik
Right on, Jared. I had a discussion last spring with the manager of our climbing group (Dam Inspections). He suggested that an ascender is not used for desending because of it's tight locking and general unwillingness to descend, and that you could purchase both types of gear (ascender/descender). He suggested two prusik knots on one halyard to alternately climb with each foot and a third for the bos'n chair or harness. As you will note in the attached link, the prusik is tied using a loop of line. He suggests a fishermans knot for completing the loop. Also, the Prusik is tied with a line about 2/3 the diameter of the halyard or line you are climbing up. I tried having someone haul me up in a harness, the strap through the legs made me very uncomfortable until I had them haul up the bos'n chair!!! need I say more? A harness would be ok with the prusik setup, because you would not be required to place all of your weight on the harness. double check your halyard belay and all of your knots. I'd be glad to e-mail a 7 page pdf I created for my files. Look me up in the hunter owners directory. By the way a double Prusik is safer.
Right on, Jared. I had a discussion last spring with the manager of our climbing group (Dam Inspections). He suggested that an ascender is not used for desending because of it's tight locking and general unwillingness to descend, and that you could purchase both types of gear (ascender/descender). He suggested two prusik knots on one halyard to alternately climb with each foot and a third for the bos'n chair or harness. As you will note in the attached link, the prusik is tied using a loop of line. He suggests a fishermans knot for completing the loop. Also, the Prusik is tied with a line about 2/3 the diameter of the halyard or line you are climbing up. I tried having someone haul me up in a harness, the strap through the legs made me very uncomfortable until I had them haul up the bos'n chair!!! need I say more? A harness would be ok with the prusik setup, because you would not be required to place all of your weight on the harness. double check your halyard belay and all of your knots. I'd be glad to e-mail a 7 page pdf I created for my files. Look me up in the hunter owners directory. By the way a double Prusik is safer.
If doublehanding you can tail the rappel
line. If the deck crew puts tension on the rappel line he/she can lock the aloft climber in place (assumes a ACT or other rappel devise) while the climber unhooks assenders, then deck crew can belay (brake) the rappel. I like your sytem Josh and you method of gym wall practice. Very prudent i.e. smart. I climbed up solo myself fine ( to speaders) then was only making about a foot every five minutes on decent, when wife showed up and belayed my rappel from the spreaders.
line. If the deck crew puts tension on the rappel line he/she can lock the aloft climber in place (assumes a ACT or other rappel devise) while the climber unhooks assenders, then deck crew can belay (brake) the rappel. I like your sytem Josh and you method of gym wall practice. Very prudent i.e. smart. I climbed up solo myself fine ( to speaders) then was only making about a foot every five minutes on decent, when wife showed up and belayed my rappel from the spreaders.
ATN TopClimber works fine.
I've been using it for about two years, and I'm now used to going up and down without problems. The Admiral doesn't like exerting herself to go up the mast, so I bought a Milwaukee right-angle 18V Drill that puts out 600 in-lbs. of torque, and a winch drillbit. Now neither of us have to crank a winch to raise the other, or the mainsail. To us, reducing the effort and enjoying the sail is well worth the cost. Besides, you can't take it with you. ;^) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
I've been using it for about two years, and I'm now used to going up and down without problems. The Admiral doesn't like exerting herself to go up the mast, so I bought a Milwaukee right-angle 18V Drill that puts out 600 in-lbs. of torque, and a winch drillbit. Now neither of us have to crank a winch to raise the other, or the mainsail. To us, reducing the effort and enjoying the sail is well worth the cost. Besides, you can't take it with you. ;^) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
Found drillbit on ebay
Also, a fellow mentioned on one of the Sailnet forums (I think it was "Gear and Maintenance") he makes and sells a square drillbit for about $20 (mine has all the points that fit into the winch socket and cost about $40). Hope this info helps. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
Also, a fellow mentioned on one of the Sailnet forums (I think it was "Gear and Maintenance") he makes and sells a square drillbit for about $20 (mine has all the points that fit into the winch socket and cost about $40). Hope this info helps. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
Gant Line
I use a Gantline. 200 feet on line and 3 blocks (block and tackle) gives me a 4:1 purchase. This way my 200 lbs is cut down to 50 lbs. I can pull myself up easily. Coming down is a matter of untying the knot and repelling down. Takes about a minute to get to the top and 20 seconds back down.I learned this from a professional rigger....
I use a Gantline. 200 feet on line and 3 blocks (block and tackle) gives me a 4:1 purchase. This way my 200 lbs is cut down to 50 lbs. I can pull myself up easily. Coming down is a matter of untying the knot and repelling down. Takes about a minute to get to the top and 20 seconds back down.I learned this from a professional rigger....
Going up with a gant line with racheting blocks
I think this is what Ron is talking about except that mine has racheting blocks. Use a good climbing harness - mines from CMC. A harness will get you higher than a bosuns chair and make it much easier to work on the top of the mast stuff. The instructors harnesses are more padded and therefore more comfortable. Rig up a pulley system using racheting blocks top (double fiddle - I think) and bottom (single with becket). Get new Harken big blocks - and use large soft dacron rope (7/16) which is not too stiff. Run the line from the becket through the first (little) pulley, back to the lower block in the direction of the ratchet. Then back to the top through the ratcheting pulley in the direction of the ratchet again and back down. To use it, attach the upper pulley to a halyard and raise it to the top. Attach the lower pulley to the harness. The upper block is set to always ratchet and the lower block is set free to descend and ratcheting for going up and staying in place. You just pull yourself up with the free line (all ratcheting pulleys set) and to come down, release the bottom ratcheting block and let the line slip over the ratcheting pulley at the top. It is easy to control your descent by controlling pressure on the line - much like rapelling. Obviously use a safety line and practice to get used to the system. Mind how the free line piles up on the deck and do not let it tangle. Once you are used to it, you can climb up and down like a monkey very quickly and safely. Much easier if you are in shape. This may not be quite as foolproof as some other systems but it is my favorite.
I think this is what Ron is talking about except that mine has racheting blocks. Use a good climbing harness - mines from CMC. A harness will get you higher than a bosuns chair and make it much easier to work on the top of the mast stuff. The instructors harnesses are more padded and therefore more comfortable. Rig up a pulley system using racheting blocks top (double fiddle - I think) and bottom (single with becket). Get new Harken big blocks - and use large soft dacron rope (7/16) which is not too stiff. Run the line from the becket through the first (little) pulley, back to the lower block in the direction of the ratchet. Then back to the top through the ratcheting pulley in the direction of the ratchet again and back down. To use it, attach the upper pulley to a halyard and raise it to the top. Attach the lower pulley to the harness. The upper block is set to always ratchet and the lower block is set free to descend and ratcheting for going up and staying in place. You just pull yourself up with the free line (all ratcheting pulleys set) and to come down, release the bottom ratcheting block and let the line slip over the ratcheting pulley at the top. It is easy to control your descent by controlling pressure on the line - much like rapelling. Obviously use a safety line and practice to get used to the system. Mind how the free line piles up on the deck and do not let it tangle. Once you are used to it, you can climb up and down like a monkey very quickly and safely. Much easier if you are in shape. This may not be quite as foolproof as some other systems but it is my favorite.
Gantline setup...
I use two blocks. One block with two sheaves is conected to my halyard. (I use the spinaker halyard, but the main is fine, too.) A second block with one sheave is connected to my bosun's chair. I run the line through one sheave on the double then into the single sheave attached to the chair and back up to the second sheave on the double on the halyard. Now you have a line woven up and down through the pulleys from top to bottom to top again. You also have two loose ends. You tie one end to your bousun's chair and the other you use to haul yourself up. This is the standard block and tackle system that you might have used as a teenager to pull the engine on your old 55' Chevy... With the line set up this way you have a 4:1 purchase so if you are like me and weigh 200 lbs you only have to haul 50 lbs up the mast.... but you have to haul that 50 lbs 4 times farther. This is the climbing system Larry Pardey uses. At first, get someone to tail the line until you see if you can tie off by yourself safely. Even if you don't use this system by yourself it is still a good way to help your first mate haul you up. Just about anyone can crank 50 lbs up the mast. I keep the whole deal ready in a small sea bag so all I have to do is hook the halyard on and away I go..... Let me know how it works for you.. Ron Captronbob@yahoo.com
I use two blocks. One block with two sheaves is conected to my halyard. (I use the spinaker halyard, but the main is fine, too.) A second block with one sheave is connected to my bosun's chair. I run the line through one sheave on the double then into the single sheave attached to the chair and back up to the second sheave on the double on the halyard. Now you have a line woven up and down through the pulleys from top to bottom to top again. You also have two loose ends. You tie one end to your bousun's chair and the other you use to haul yourself up. This is the standard block and tackle system that you might have used as a teenager to pull the engine on your old 55' Chevy... With the line set up this way you have a 4:1 purchase so if you are like me and weigh 200 lbs you only have to haul 50 lbs up the mast.... but you have to haul that 50 lbs 4 times farther. This is the climbing system Larry Pardey uses. At first, get someone to tail the line until you see if you can tie off by yourself safely. Even if you don't use this system by yourself it is still a good way to help your first mate haul you up. Just about anyone can crank 50 lbs up the mast. I keep the whole deal ready in a small sea bag so all I have to do is hook the halyard on and away I go..... Let me know how it works for you.. Ron Captronbob@yahoo.com
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