Greetings all, I am about to become the proud owner of a 1983 H37c, and I though I would prevail upon you all for any/all information and advice in the process. The boat is generally 'original' and defnitely in need of work, but not unsalvagable (or so it seems). My questions would be related to (at least to start). What modifications would you consider to be most important/necessary? My wife, daughter, and I will be living aboard and cruise for a few years. And so pror to departure we will be taking 2-3 months off to devote totally to getting the boat ready. any and all help would be welcome. Sincerely, Alex Borg
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Start here.
Welcome aboard Alex. Good to know that another serial # is in good hands(mine is #74). Start with the Related Link. Scroll down and see two topics, "Upgrades.." and "Arch..". Gene will see your post and have some thoughts I am sure. Using Gene's experience I also added some books to my library. Books like "Selecting the Offshore Sailboat" and "Upgrading..". Use those kinds of search arguments on amazon.com and you will see lots. Then I studied the Caribbean Rally site(http://www.carib1500.com/c1500/index.htm). See "Preparation" and "Equipment" to learn what they require of a boat to join their rally. My own spreadsheet has the items flagged that are necessary. As you would expect, mostly safety related. My own basic list would be something like: 1) hull/rudder - barrier-coated. 2) thru-hulls - get rid of gate valves. 3) electrical - properly wired and monitored. 4) engine and fuel system - mounts, clean tank, proper filters, aligned, cutlass bearing, valve clearances, stuffing box. 5) Spars and rigging - unstepped, rewired, throughly checked, spare wires and terminals. 6) Deck and cabin - find any core moisture and eliminate the causes. 7) All the things that I cannot remember because I am over 60.
My e-mail address is in the Owner's Directory if I can help in any way.
Welcome aboard Alex. Good to know that another serial # is in good hands(mine is #74). Start with the Related Link. Scroll down and see two topics, "Upgrades.." and "Arch..". Gene will see your post and have some thoughts I am sure. Using Gene's experience I also added some books to my library. Books like "Selecting the Offshore Sailboat" and "Upgrading..". Use those kinds of search arguments on amazon.com and you will see lots. Then I studied the Caribbean Rally site(http://www.carib1500.com/c1500/index.htm). See "Preparation" and "Equipment" to learn what they require of a boat to join their rally. My own spreadsheet has the items flagged that are necessary. As you would expect, mostly safety related. My own basic list would be something like: 1) hull/rudder - barrier-coated. 2) thru-hulls - get rid of gate valves. 3) electrical - properly wired and monitored. 4) engine and fuel system - mounts, clean tank, proper filters, aligned, cutlass bearing, valve clearances, stuffing box. 5) Spars and rigging - unstepped, rewired, throughly checked, spare wires and terminals. 6) Deck and cabin - find any core moisture and eliminate the causes. 7) All the things that I cannot remember because I am over 60.
My e-mail address is in the Owner's Directory if I can help in any way.A few more ideas
Ed's right, but I'd add a couple of more things to double check before taking off for cruising: -- The holding tank, if original, should be replaced; -- The water and fuel tanks need to be closely inspected, and you probably should install clean-out ports if they are not there; -- If the stove is original (deisel or alcohol) you will want propane -- expensive but worth it for living aboard. -- If your cruising plan includes lots of anchoring, particularly in Mexico, you'll need better than standard ground tackle, and a dingy with a hard or inflatable bottom. The soft bottoms don't last long on hard beaches, but they are cheaper. -- Save lots of money b yshopping for charts at marine swap meets, or try posting a list of what you need at the marina or yacht club. I just bought several hundred dollars worth of charts for $10 from a sailor who is swallowing the hook. -- Evaluate you power needs, and consider a high output alternator, plus elec panel;s, plus a windvane. -- Your family would appreciate a short wave, for emails and weather and news, and so will you. But someone needs to get thelicense. -- Lerarn to do everything you can. It's fun, saves a ton of money, and there are no boat yards in some very pretty places. . And remember, it's a boat and we all enjoy the work and preparation almost as much as the sailing... Well, almost. Welcome, Sanders LaMont currently in Florida
Ed's right, but I'd add a couple of more things to double check before taking off for cruising: -- The holding tank, if original, should be replaced; -- The water and fuel tanks need to be closely inspected, and you probably should install clean-out ports if they are not there; -- If the stove is original (deisel or alcohol) you will want propane -- expensive but worth it for living aboard. -- If your cruising plan includes lots of anchoring, particularly in Mexico, you'll need better than standard ground tackle, and a dingy with a hard or inflatable bottom. The soft bottoms don't last long on hard beaches, but they are cheaper. -- Save lots of money b yshopping for charts at marine swap meets, or try posting a list of what you need at the marina or yacht club. I just bought several hundred dollars worth of charts for $10 from a sailor who is swallowing the hook. -- Evaluate you power needs, and consider a high output alternator, plus elec panel;s, plus a windvane. -- Your family would appreciate a short wave, for emails and weather and news, and so will you. But someone needs to get thelicense. -- Lerarn to do everything you can. It's fun, saves a ton of money, and there are no boat yards in some very pretty places. . And remember, it's a boat and we all enjoy the work and preparation almost as much as the sailing... Well, almost. Welcome, Sanders LaMont currently in Florida
and don't forget...
to exploit every square inch of hidden space in you're new boat. Ed's list is a starting point, I did my 30 over 3 years of working mostly on the weekends. Pat
to exploit every square inch of hidden space in you're new boat. Ed's list is a starting point, I did my 30 over 3 years of working mostly on the weekends. Pat
Good News
You have one of the better models. I have to agree replacing the original holding tank should be high on your list. If the opening ports are original they are working overtime. With the right prep your Hunter will "go the distance" (or further than those new clorox bottles)
You have one of the better models. I have to agree replacing the original holding tank should be high on your list. If the opening ports are original they are working overtime. With the right prep your Hunter will "go the distance" (or further than those new clorox bottles)
Thanks
Thanks for the advice all. This is definitely going to have a huge learning curve, but well worth it. Not sure where to start with some of those projects... On that note, the holding tank is original and supposedly works fine. But I have seen countless suggestions on various sites to replace it. What is the 'preferred' way of doing this? It is my understanding that the old original cannot be removed? What about installing a lectra-san unit? Thanks, Alex
Thanks for the advice all. This is definitely going to have a huge learning curve, but well worth it. Not sure where to start with some of those projects... On that note, the holding tank is original and supposedly works fine. But I have seen countless suggestions on various sites to replace it. What is the 'preferred' way of doing this? It is my understanding that the old original cannot be removed? What about installing a lectra-san unit? Thanks, Alex
holding tank options
There's a ton of stuff in the archives, and be sure and look up the Head Mistress stuff. Most people seem to out the new tank into the V berth. My boat has a bladder, soft rubber tank, which is not recommended generally, and I use rarely. My plan is to buy a prper size poly tank (per the head mistress) and install it in place of the old one. But it's down my list of priorities. Others have other solutions and ideas.. You'll have fun reading about them. Good luck with it all Sanders
There's a ton of stuff in the archives, and be sure and look up the Head Mistress stuff. Most people seem to out the new tank into the V berth. My boat has a bladder, soft rubber tank, which is not recommended generally, and I use rarely. My plan is to buy a prper size poly tank (per the head mistress) and install it in place of the old one. But it's down my list of priorities. Others have other solutions and ideas.. You'll have fun reading about them. Good luck with it all Sanders
Archives
I recommend you do a archive search under H37C and H37 Cutter and read all the articles and replies that have been written. I did exactly that when I bought my '85 H37C. It is incredible how accurate these opinions are. Two years after purchasing my boat I entered the Hampton Va to Bermuda Rally and my boat was well prepared and equipped by following the equipment requirements of the rally and the doing many of the projects found in the archives.
I recommend you do a archive search under H37C and H37 Cutter and read all the articles and replies that have been written. I did exactly that when I bought my '85 H37C. It is incredible how accurate these opinions are. Two years after purchasing my boat I entered the Hampton Va to Bermuda Rally and my boat was well prepared and equipped by following the equipment requirements of the rally and the doing many of the projects found in the archives.
check the photo/project forum
Under "Hunter Forums," check out the "photo/project forum". Morrie and I just posted two possibilities for replacing the holding tank with pictures. You'll see a bunch of other projects explained in detail with pictures as well. Good luck. Josh
Under "Hunter Forums," check out the "photo/project forum". Morrie and I just posted two possibilities for replacing the holding tank with pictures. You'll see a bunch of other projects explained in detail with pictures as well. Good luck. Josh
Dave
All you needed were new burners. Force 10 burners fit perfectly , we replaced ours and the stove works like new. Prppane is expensive, takes up a lot of room onboard , and is hard to find in some cruising locations, IMHO
All you needed were new burners. Force 10 burners fit perfectly , we replaced ours and the stove works like new. Prppane is expensive, takes up a lot of room onboard , and is hard to find in some cruising locations, IMHO
Dave
Dave... Actually, according to ALL the cruising data, propane is the easiest to find around the world. Diesel/Kerosene is next and alcohol is by far the hardest. Most people who have a bias against propane have never had a propane stove. They are wonderful (and I have had all types). We had a discussion here a few years ago and LaDonna Bubak was in the other court. Last time I spoke with her she had a new boat and loves her propane. Hell, just ask Hank Hill... "Propane Peggy....!
Dave... Actually, according to ALL the cruising data, propane is the easiest to find around the world. Diesel/Kerosene is next and alcohol is by far the hardest. Most people who have a bias against propane have never had a propane stove. They are wonderful (and I have had all types). We had a discussion here a few years ago and LaDonna Bubak was in the other court. Last time I spoke with her she had a new boat and loves her propane. Hell, just ask Hank Hill... "Propane Peggy....!
Propane.....
I guess this is a "You pays your money & you takes your choice" issue. In our case, our cruising plans included Mexico & points south, so we opted for propane. Its cost is almost negligible; we fill two 5-gal bottles avery 4-6 weeks, depending on the season, and the cost is about $22....$4-5/week. We do all our cooking, heat the cabin in winter, fire our instant water heater, and most important of all, we run our refrigerator with propane. Don't have to chase amps every day to run an electric unit. By the way J., you're probably right about the burners, but I cleaned and pricked those things 'til I was fed up. And, as you can see from the above, propane was definately the best choice for us.
I guess this is a "You pays your money & you takes your choice" issue. In our case, our cruising plans included Mexico & points south, so we opted for propane. Its cost is almost negligible; we fill two 5-gal bottles avery 4-6 weeks, depending on the season, and the cost is about $22....$4-5/week. We do all our cooking, heat the cabin in winter, fire our instant water heater, and most important of all, we run our refrigerator with propane. Don't have to chase amps every day to run an electric unit. By the way J., you're probably right about the burners, but I cleaned and pricked those things 'til I was fed up. And, as you can see from the above, propane was definately the best choice for us.
dryrot at the chainplates
Alex, I bought my 79 37C last year at this time, and my surveyor found some dryrot in the bulkhead at one of the starboard chainplates. I called over a boatyard on the spot to give me an estimate--they were out of their minds, talking about 5-7 thousand dollars. I didn't trust myself with something structural like this (obviously if you scarf in another piece of wood improperly, or miss all of the rot, the integrity of the stay is compromised. So this is a big deal). So I ended up having a yard do it for about $1400. We're talking about cutting out the rot, scarfing a new piece in, and then reglassing the area for about a ten inch by ten inch space. You should really get an idea of what will be involved if you have significant amounts of wood-rot, and also, remember that the integrity of your rigging is directly related to how well the problem treated (if a chainplate is involved, which it sounds like it is).
Alex, I bought my 79 37C last year at this time, and my surveyor found some dryrot in the bulkhead at one of the starboard chainplates. I called over a boatyard on the spot to give me an estimate--they were out of their minds, talking about 5-7 thousand dollars. I didn't trust myself with something structural like this (obviously if you scarf in another piece of wood improperly, or miss all of the rot, the integrity of the stay is compromised. So this is a big deal). So I ended up having a yard do it for about $1400. We're talking about cutting out the rot, scarfing a new piece in, and then reglassing the area for about a ten inch by ten inch space. You should really get an idea of what will be involved if you have significant amounts of wood-rot, and also, remember that the integrity of your rigging is directly related to how well the problem treated (if a chainplate is involved, which it sounds like it is).
It's official
Well, as of today, it's official, the owner has accepted my post-survey counter. SO...now I have my very own hole-in-the-water.
Well, as of today, it's official, the owner has accepted my post-survey counter. SO...now I have my very own hole-in-the-water.
Congrats. . . . .
I think. My wife, the Admiral, would say "are you crazy!!" But you studied all the previous responses and went into this with eyes wide open. So have fun. It really is a safe, solid, and relatively fast boat. And many(maybe most) boats costing twice that much cannot make that statement.
I think. My wife, the Admiral, would say "are you crazy!!" But you studied all the previous responses and went into this with eyes wide open. So have fun. It really is a safe, solid, and relatively fast boat. And many(maybe most) boats costing twice that much cannot make that statement.
Congrats!
Congrats! I've followed this tread since I looked very long and hard at the 37' cutter. What a neat boat! I really like the lay-out. I think you'll enjoy that cutter rig. Enjoy that hole-in-the-water! Steve
Congrats! I've followed this tread since I looked very long and hard at the 37' cutter. What a neat boat! I really like the lay-out. I think you'll enjoy that cutter rig. Enjoy that hole-in-the-water! Steve
Congrats!!!
We have enjoyed every min we have spent with MYST...She will take far more than we will...We have gone through the propane conversion, not a big deal if done properly, much better than the alcohol that was on her when we bought her...I built the lockers myself, and did the rest of the installation...I have complete photographs of that, the radar arch, etc...So if you are interested in any of the upgrades we have done on MYST, feel free to email me.. Again, Congrats..Welcome aboard!!! Ed & Wendy S/V MYST kc4jkw@gibralter.net
We have enjoyed every min we have spent with MYST...She will take far more than we will...We have gone through the propane conversion, not a big deal if done properly, much better than the alcohol that was on her when we bought her...I built the lockers myself, and did the rest of the installation...I have complete photographs of that, the radar arch, etc...So if you are interested in any of the upgrades we have done on MYST, feel free to email me.. Again, Congrats..Welcome aboard!!! Ed & Wendy S/V MYST kc4jkw@gibralter.net
Congrats
Congratulations Ed. I have had my '84 H37C since '84 and I would still not change it. I agree with all the upgrades and repairs listed in this thread including the change to propane. Probably the first would be replacing the holding tank as, if it has not been replaced, it is due. There is no end to the upkeep of a boat but that applies to a new one as well. The good thing about the upgrades is you will learn all the systems before you head out cruising. That is a plus. Welcome aboard and fair winds Don
Congratulations Ed. I have had my '84 H37C since '84 and I would still not change it. I agree with all the upgrades and repairs listed in this thread including the change to propane. Probably the first would be replacing the holding tank as, if it has not been replaced, it is due. There is no end to the upkeep of a boat but that applies to a new one as well. The good thing about the upgrades is you will learn all the systems before you head out cruising. That is a plus. Welcome aboard and fair winds Don
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