Anyone know port sizes on a '77 H27?

  • Thread starter David Goldsmith
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David Goldsmith

We've just bought a '77 Hunter 27 and many of the ports are cracked. We're thinking of replacing some of them for this reason and because we'd like some opening ports. Does anyone know the sizes of ports I should be shopping for? I tried measuring them in place, but it's impossible to tell what size the cut out is. Anyone know what they came from the factory with? Thanks, David
 
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red coles

Port size

Hello Dave: I would say that measuring them is the best way. Use a constant of subtracting 1" from outside measurement. This will give you minimum size. Of course you can go larger. Good luck red
 
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David Goldsmith

Thrifty Mariner

Yep, that's the place I've been looking at. I wanted to have the port sizes so I could see what they carried that would fit. I e-mailed them already about a foward hatch, so when I get a reply I'll ask if they know the port sizes. Thanks, David
 
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Ed Schenck

Not original?

Are your portlights not the original rectangular Gray models(link below)? I thought all the early Hunters used those. Most of the pictures that I see have them as do the ones that I see in our marina. If so then just measure the outside dimensions of the spigot(frame), the part that sticks out and people step on and break. That dimension is the size of the hole in the cabin trunk. On my 1979 H37C I have six that are 7x15" and four that are 5x12". The H27s that I see look like 5x12s.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Bomar/Gray site!

David: With the information from the Bomar/Gray site that Ed pointed you to, you should be able to figure out what ports you have. There are only a few and then you need to choose clear or tinted.
 
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David

cracked port shades

If it is just the shade that is cracked you can cut the shade off and sand or grind down the stub smooth. It makes for a better appearance at a much lower cost than replacing the ports. David
 
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Ed Schenck

Spigot(shade) cracks.

True, you can cut them flush and grind smooth. But on a few of mine large pieces broke away, all the way into the opening. Then when I removed them I found very wet plywoood in the cabin core. I dried that and then epoxied it. The new ones will be properly sealed. You can see some of this work on the "Photo Forum", search on "portlights".
 
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Tim Schaaf

Longevity and Gray ports

Bomar/Grey suggest that their ports have a life of about ten years. When questioned very closely, they are more concerned about aging in the lenses than the frame, trim ring etc. These MIGHT last longer. I have just replaced a number of twenty two year old ports that have never leaked a drop, mostly on principle. The lenses had fogged over, and some of the attachment points on the lenses, for the dogs, had cracked. And, the SS in the dogs had corroded in various places. BUT, the plastic on the frames had not cracked, chipped, or failed, in any way, and I live in the tropics. I attribute this to having Awlgripped the ports quite a few years ago. Gray told me that Awlgrip would work, and it did, and of course it protects the plastic from the sun. All of which leads me to advise people who have older (or even new) Gray ports, out of which they would like to extract a longer lifetime.....paint 'em with Awlgrip. They will look great. Do it when they are new, take care of them, replace the lenses and gaskets every decade, and they will probably go for a loooooooooong time! By the way, before installing ports, I always knock out the hinge pins, and replace with bolts and nuts. These are very easy to remove, and make it a snap to maintain the lenses.
 
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