anyone able to send me details of how to wire sacrificial anodes to my Vega .

wxt8981 · Mar 26, 2008

Hi Derek
I'm a little confused: Why worry about the DC, it's the AC you should worry about. A good connection to a ground-plate on the outside of the hull should do the trick.
Wilhelm, V-257

derek reynolds deckingideas@... wrote: she has volvo 13hp engine. pics and explainations would be great. I
assume wire comes off anode bolt inside hull to engine then onto
negative of battery then back to anode again is this the case? My boat
also has 3 batteries do I feed cable to all 3 negatives?Never fitted
one and need a bit of guide. Thanks to all.

vegatern · Mar 26, 2008

Derek,
I'm not sure I understand the question but my boat has a Volvo Penta
MD7a. After trying to find the sacrificial zincs (zincs to protect
the engine itself, and the raw water channels, from corroding) I
finally gave up and called the marine Volvo dealer. There are no
zincs on the engine. It seems odd to me but mine is an old rebuild
and has been around a long time, so it must be ok. If you are asking
about bonding the electrical system in the boat, that is well outside
my knowledge. Mine is not bonded.
Craig Tern #1519

wemccourt · Mar 27, 2008

Hi,

I would think that you should have zinc "pencil" type anodes that
screw into your raw water heat exchanger (if your diesel is fresh
water cooled) otherwise the engine block may have zinc pencil anodes
where the raw water passages enter and leave the block. You may also
have a through bolted anode on your hull that the ground side of your
electrical system may also be connected to which I would think is more
for lightning protection (giving a path to the water not impeded by
the hull) than hull protection. You should also have a "cat whisker"
connection to your shaft and a bolt-on zinc on your shaft.

The point of this is to get all your metal hull penetrations to be at
the same electrical "potential" so there won't be any "stray" current
flow through the water between them thus resulting in galvanic
corrosion which will eat away the metal parts. You can see evidence
of this in a marina sometimes where a boat that has been sitting for a
long period will mysteriously sink. What has most likely happened is
that the grounding of the boat's electrical system and the marina's
power distribution does not have the grounds at the same potential and
corrosion eats away at the hull fittings until one fails and the boat
sinks.

Zinc pencils will look like large bolt heads usually, as they are like
threaded caps with a hollow inside that the zinc slips into.

Also, check out the electrical diagram in the Vega Handbook which may
indicate where the more common grounding points are located. Your
Volvo engine manual should also indicate where the zincs should be
located. The ground connection back to the batteries from the engine
block will provide sufficient path for the engine and it's associated
peripheral/ancillary equipment. All the rest (not mechanically or
directly metal to metal connected to the engine) should be connected
with a large diameter stranded wire, to put all at the same potential
and then the wire connected to the ground post of the electrical system.

There is, I believe, a marine electrical standard, published by a
Yacht Manufacturers Trade organization and also a book on boat
electrical systems that West Marine stocks and sells. Check with your
local surveyor about the electrical standard as he/she should be
familiar with it and know where to find a copy.

I hope this helps,

Bill McCourt
Reston, VA

stevebirch2002 · Mar 27, 2008

There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

wxt8981 · Mar 27, 2008

Hi.: The biggest problem for a Vega is a cheep car battery charger. Always check the outgoing voltage, there should never be AC. A good marine charger has only DC coming out. I've seen a Vega that lost its operating sleeve because the owner had a bad charger.
For grounding the engine (and the rest) I use a big egg-shapped ground plate, bolted outside to the keel and connected with a heavy wire to the engine block. Such a plate will last 3 to 5 years (depends what marina you're in)
Wilhelm, V-257

Steve Birch steve@... wrote: There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

papasbackhoeinc · Mar 28, 2008

Hi,

My name is Andi and I own Vega 3179. Right now I am in the process of rebuilding the whole boat. Your comment on grounding with a steel plate deep on the keel caught my eye. If it's on the outside of the boat are you connecting to the bolts that hold it to the keel from the inside? I will be using an outboard for propulsion but will have shore power. Thanks for your help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi.: The biggest problem for a Vega is a cheep car battery charger. Always check the outgoing voltage, there should never be AC. A good marine charger has only DC coming out. I've seen a Vega that lost its operating sleeve because the owner had a bad charger.
For grounding the engine (and the rest) I use a big egg-shapped ground plate, bolted outside to the keel and connected with a heavy wire to the engine block. Such a plate will last 3 to 5 years (depends what marina you're in)
Wilhelm, V-257

Steve Birch steve@... wrote: There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

pjacobs55 · Mar 28, 2008

Andi,
When it comes to AC systems and boats there seems to be a lot of
conflicting information flying around.
My wife bought me a little book that's helped me a lot
called "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" by Don Casey. It has a good
section on bonding, both for lightening protection and for corrosion.
The rest of the book is very interesting and informative too.
Here's a link to it on Google Books: Sailboat Electrical Systems: Improvement, Wiring, and Repair

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

papasbackhoeinc · Mar 28, 2008

Peter,

Thanks for the info. Ordered the book from west marine. Again thanks for the help. Andi

pjacobs55 prjacobs@... wrote:
Andi,
When it comes to AC systems and boats there seems to be a lot of
conflicting information flying around.
My wife bought me a little book that's helped me a lot
called "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" by Don Casey. It has a good
section on bonding, both for lightening protection and for corrosion.
The rest of the book is very interesting and informative too.
Here's a link to it on Google Books: Sailboat Electrical Systems: Improvement, Wiring, and Repair

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

wxt8981 · Mar 28, 2008

Hi Andy;
grounding with a steel plate wont do you much good. West Marine has several large grounding plates (look like a slice of an american football) . You need to drill a hole through the hull, about where the engine is, use good insulation for the wire, fiberglass over at the inside and outside, bolt the plate, and you're done for a few years. You'll find the plate gets eaten up more and more every year. You'll know when to replace it.
Wilhelm, V-257Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Hi,

My name is Andi and I own Vega 3179. Right now I am in the process of rebuilding the whole boat. Your comment on grounding with a steel plate deep on the keel caught my eye. If it's on the outside of the boat are you connecting to the bolts that hold it to the keel from the inside? I will be using an outboard for propulsion but will have shore power. Thanks for your help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi.: The biggest problem for a Vega is a cheep car battery charger. Always check the outgoing voltage, there should never be AC. A good marine charger has only DC coming out. I've seen a Vega that lost its operating sleeve because the owner had a bad charger.
For grounding the engine (and the rest) I use a big egg-shapped ground plate, bolted outside to the keel and connected with a heavy wire to the engine block. Such a plate will last 3 to 5 years (depends what marina you're in)
Wilhelm, V-257

Steve Birch steve@... wrote: There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

wxt8981 · Mar 28, 2008

Hi Peter;
I use 3 batteries on my boat. When I go home, I disconnect the plus and minus side of all batteries. In other words, when I charge my batteries, it's just like I charge my car's battery. The circuit is just between the charger and the batteries. Though I do have the boat grounded, but when I close those two switches, each circuit is by itself.
I own my Vega some thirty years, never had any galvanic problems.
Wilhelm, V-257

Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Peter,

Thanks for the info. Ordered the book from west marine. Again thanks for the help. Andi

pjacobs55 prjacobs@... wrote:
Andi,
When it comes to AC systems and boats there seems to be a lot of
conflicting information flying around.
My wife bought me a little book that's helped me a lot
called "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" by Don Casey. It has a good
section on bonding, both for lightening protection and for corrosion.
The rest of the book is very interesting and informative too.
Here's a link to it on Google Books: Sailboat Electrical Systems: Improvement, Wiring, and Repair

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

pjacobs55 · Mar 28, 2008

Wilhelm,
That sounds like a very good 'belt & suspenders' approach!
Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

papasbackhoeinc · Apr 1, 2008

Wilhelm,

Thanks for the info on the grounding plate. Are they large zincs or aluminum. So install it near where the motor used to be and connect my ground to it. I've checked West Marine and all I find is zincs. Is that what I need. Should I buy the biggest football they have? Thank you for the help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi Andy;
grounding with a steel plate wont do you much good. West Marine has several large grounding plates (look like a slice of an american football) . You need to drill a hole through the hull, about where the engine is, use good insulation for the wire, fiberglass over at the inside and outside, bolt the plate, and you're done for a few years. You'll find the plate gets eaten up more and more every year. You'll know when to replace it.
Wilhelm, V-257

Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Hi,

My name is Andi and I own Vega 3179. Right now I am in the process of rebuilding the whole boat. Your comment on grounding with a steel plate deep on the keel caught my eye. If it's on the outside of the boat are you connecting to the bolts that hold it to the keel from the inside? I will be using an outboard for propulsion but will have shore power. Thanks for your help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi.: The biggest problem for a Vega is a cheep car battery charger. Always check the outgoing voltage, there should never be AC. A good marine charger has only DC coming out. I've seen a Vega that lost its operating sleeve because the owner had a bad charger.
For grounding the engine (and the rest) I use a big egg-shapped ground plate, bolted outside to the keel and connected with a heavy wire to the engine block. Such a plate will last 3 to 5 years (depends what marina you're in)
Wilhelm, V-257

Steve Birch steve@... wrote: There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

wxt8981 · Apr 2, 2008

Hi Harold;
yes, West marine has those zincs- get the largest one looking like an ellipse. But I have to ask you: from your response I guess you no longer have an inboard? You write: where the motor used to be.
Wilhelm, V-257

Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Wilhelm,

Thanks for the info on the grounding plate. Are they large zincs or aluminum. So install it near where the motor used to be and connect my ground to it. I've checked West Marine and all I find is zincs. Is that what I need. Should I buy the biggest football they have? Thank you for the help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi Andy;
grounding with a steel plate wont do you much good. West Marine has several large grounding plates (look like a slice of an american football) . You need to drill a hole through the hull, about where the engine is, use good insulation for the wire, fiberglass over at the inside and outside, bolt the plate, and you're done for a few years. You'll find the plate gets eaten up more and more every year. You'll know when to replace it.
Wilhelm, V-257

Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Hi,

My name is Andi and I own Vega 3179. Right now I am in the process of rebuilding the whole boat. Your comment on grounding with a steel plate deep on the keel caught my eye. If it's on the outside of the boat are you connecting to the bolts that hold it to the keel from the inside? I will be using an outboard for propulsion but will have shore power. Thanks for your help. Andi

WL wxt8981@... wrote:
Hi.: The biggest problem for a Vega is a cheep car battery charger. Always check the outgoing voltage, there should never be AC. A good marine charger has only DC coming out. I've seen a Vega that lost its operating sleeve because the owner had a bad charger.
For grounding the engine (and the rest) I use a big egg-shapped ground plate, bolted outside to the keel and connected with a heavy wire to the engine block. Such a plate will last 3 to 5 years (depends what marina you're in)
Wilhelm, V-257

Steve Birch steve@... wrote: There are no engine anodes within the MD6A or MD6B or MD&A that were original fit in the Vegas. They were raw (salt) water cooled. Very hefty engine blocks which will outlast teh ravages of salt-water!!

Cheers

Steve B

papasbackhoeinc · Apr 10, 2008

Wilhelm,

Would it be OK to mount the sacrificial zinc onto the keel? That way if it ever leaks it will be into the bilge. I then wire my AC ground to it right? Thank you for the help. Still waiting on my boat wiring book! Andi

wxt8981 · Apr 10, 2008

Hi Harold;
I wouldn't do that. I have such a zink for tens of years, had to change it frequently, but never had a leak. The zink belongs on the outside.
Wilhelm, V-257

Harold Anderson papasbackhoeinc@... wrote: Wilhelm,

Would it be OK to mount the sacrificial zinc onto the keel? That way if it ever leaks it will be into the bilge. I then wire my AC ground to it right? Thank you for the help. Still waiting on my boat wiring book! Andi

papasbackhoeinc · Apr 11, 2008

Wilhelm

First thanks for all the help. As far as the zinc it would be mounted outside the keel but the wiring would be inside the keel inside the boat and the ground would connect to it the zincs mounting bolts. Also how many anchors do you carry and what are the weights, types, road lenght? Where are they kept? How much chain? I'm planning on two anchors but am at a loss as where to store them within easy access. Probably a danforth for daily use with a 100ft of rode and a plow with all chain for heavy weather. All comments are welcome as I am a novice and only know what I read. Experience is zilch for me but I plan on really using this boat. Thanks again. Andi

pjacobs55 · Apr 11, 2008

Where do you cruise? A rough, rocky, tideswept area that poses real challenges for anchoring? I cruise in Maine and I have two anchors, a 15 pound Bruce which is very good, digs in through eelgrass and holds on a shortened scope ok. I keep it on a bow roller. My second anchor is a good sized Danforth (15 pounds?), and I have a little Danforth for the dink. I coil that rode and stop it and keep it in the stbd cockpit locker. The chain is in its own small heavy canvas bag. I have 30 feet of chain on each 250 foot rode.

I think it is important not to over load a Vega and all chain might be overdoing it for your conditions. I know our brothers across the pond swear by all chain for their more difficult conditions but my system works well so far.

Beginners tend to overdo the gear, keep it simple and remember how many successful cruises were executed before all this equipment came along. Of course you want a robust anchor set up but don't over do it.

(I paint my anchors white so I can see them on the bottom, try it . . . )Nicholas Walsh
Nicholas H. Walsh P.A.
111 Commercial Street
Portland Maine 04101
Tel. 207/772-2191
fax 207/774-3940

This email was sent from the law firm of Nicholas H. Walsh P.A. It may contain information that is privileged and confidential. If you suspect that you were not intended to receive this email, please delete it and notify us as soon as possible. Thank you.
From: Harold Anderson
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 9:26 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: anyone able to send me details of how to wire sacrificial anodes to my VegaWilhelm

First thanks for all the help. As far as the zinc it would be mounted outside the keel but the wiring would be inside the keel inside the boat and the ground would connect to it the zincs mounting bolts. Also how many anchors do you carry and what are the weights, types, road lenght? Where are they kept? How much chain? I'm planning on two anchors but am at a loss as where to store them within easy access. Probably a danforth for daily use with a 100ft of rode and a plow with all chain for heavy weather. All comments are welcome as I am a novice and only know what I read. Experience is zilch for me but I plan on really using this boat. Thanks again. Andi

pjacobs55 · Apr 11, 2008

Andi,
I carry a 10 kg (22lb) Bruce on a bow roller with 9m (30') of chain and
90m (300') nylon rode. In the stern locker I carry a 7 kg (15lb) Bruce,
7m (24')of chain, and 30m (100') nylon rode. When out on a cruise I add
a medium size Danforth ...just in case.

In areas with a lot of debris on the bottom (old logs etc.)I usually
mark the anchor with a line tied to the fluke and bouyed by an old
fender. This line makes it possible to free the anchor from snags, and
marks it's location if you break your rode. Sounds good in theory, but
I've never had to put it to the test

Nicholas, good idea painting the anchors white!

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'

pjacobs55 · Apr 11, 2008

Andi,
Another note on anchors from a very experienced Vega sailor, Tony
Skidmore, who sailed the Vega 'Lorna Doone' around the world (1994 to
1996).
He carried three 7.5 kg Bruce anchors combined with 200' of BBB chain,
and states they were " .... perfectly matched to the Vega and good for
mud, sand, coral, or rock."

Peter
#1331 'Sin Tacha'